mk1-forum.net

I need to remove the top suspension arms on my Mk2 S (still hydrolastic). I know that it is a bit of a tricky job but I think I see how to go about removing the one on the driver's side - remove the servo and there should be enough room to get at the nut inside the engine bay at the bottom.

My question is - do you need to remove the radiator to get at the one on the nearside?

Just done both sides of a dry one. Couldn't remove the big nut (front) so undid/chiselled the 2 small bolts holding thte plat, undid the rear nut and pushed the shaft etc through from back to front and around the wok. Passenger side the same. No need to remove radiator. You need to replace the 7/16" nuts and bolts holding the plate in situ.

I've had my Mk2 hydro top arms off more times than I care to remember while the sub frame is in the car Gogsy (if you don't mind the familiarity.....). There's no need to remove the servo if you just move the heater hose out of the way. No need to do anything with the brake light switch either.

Putting the new axis shaft back is a bit of a PITA. so speak again when you need to - but DO NOT try to put the new axis pin in from the front.

No need to remove the rad either. But the front bolt can be undone a flat at a time with an open ended spanner through the gap betyween the inner flitch panel and the sub frameas I recall. The real PITA with the passenger/offside top arm is replacing the INNER small screw that secures the cover plate....., the plate that the axis bolt screws up against. Might I suggest that you set yourself an hour or so to strip down each side after releasing the hydro pressure to neutral using the little hose and combined valve core depressor (shown some time ago). Unless you've got a hydro pump and can do it that way. A bit of a crap job so line up a big glass of orange squash and a load of clean rags too.

Can I also respectfully make another suggestion while you're there...? While the hydro is down, please remove the front hydro units and drill a small 1/4 or 3/8" dia hole in the side of the top of the bowl, just above the line of the rubber damper (that is the 'lastic' part of the hydrolastic unit). This allows the water and other dirty shi......., er......, crud and crap to drain away. It is this rusty old watery crap that is the principle cause of failure of the hose crimp in hydro units.

I hope others come in with other suggestions
PS. If you need new 7/16" bolts, nuts and washers as stated above, just say so and I will send some. No charge

Whistler and Peter - thanks very much for the advice - I will have a bash at this over the next week or two. I do have a hydro pump so depressurising the system won't be a problem.

I should have said perhaps that the reason that I need to remove the upper arms is to get access into the bit behind the displacers. This car has recently been restored (not by me) and when that was being done and the car put back together they didn't fit the little retaining brackets for the displacers - the ones that bolt onto the subframe behind the displacers. I need to fit them as I don't think it is a good idea to drive the car without them.

At least you have a hydro pump. Don't forget to refill with new fluid and not the sewage that is still in the tank.

I come at the RH Arm Bolts from the top as you are thinking.

The LH bolts, I come through the front. Remove the Grill, you'll need a few 1/4" Extensions and a Universal Joint just before the socket to remove them. Replacing them, you need to hold your tongue just the right way (I find them a bit of a fiddle), I come in from the side, most cars have a window here for this, and get the bolts started, the inner one, I usually use a bit of welding wire to get it in place, then while holding to he hole, bring the socket in again from the front. The outer one is much easier. Cars that don't have a window, I can usually just get at them by springing the inner wing and chocking it off the subframe or, remove the radiator.

Thanks to all who have replied here - and to Peter for the offer of bits.
I will give this a try over the next week or so when I have the time and will no doubt be back here if (when) I have a problem.

Peter Laidler wrote: ↑Fri Apr 23, 2021 7:30 pm
Putting the new axis shaft back is a bit of a PITA. so speak again when you need to - but DO NOT try to put the new axis pin in from the front.

Which other way can you put it in?

Good question Graeme! You grease it up slip it in from the rear, into the open rear end of the arm, at an angle upwards - if you'll excuse the phrase. Then you align the FRONT opening with the large hole (dear o' dear......., this is getting worse.......) at the front of the subframe tower. Then push it through. All the time, keeping the neoprene seals in place. In at the front, align the axis pin with the rear hole, wiggle it rearwards and start the nut. Once rear nut is started, bolt the plate down and tighten the front nut.

This way because there is no way that the axis rod will align with the upper arm with the brake light switch and banjo bolt etc etc an inch in front of it. I hope that's explained it simply enough Graeme. The most important thing during the operation of the front hydro units is to drill the vent holes allow the crap and gungy water that destroys the hydro hose clamp, to escape.

I may be wrong, but, I'm pretty sure the plate you are trying to replace, only needs to be there to hold the displacer up while the suspension is being assembled.....

Once the weight of the car is on it, and, the suspension pressurized, I don't think the plate has any further use......

I certainly wouldn't go through all that grief to replace them.....

bwaminispeed wrote: ↑Sat Apr 24, 2021 6:39 pm I may be wrong, but, I'm pretty sure the plate you are trying to replace, only needs to be there to hold the displacer up while the suspension is being assembled.....

Once the weight of the car is on it, and, the suspension pressurized, I don't think the plate has any further use......

I certainly wouldn't go through all that grief to replace them.....

I agree. It's the same as the lugs on the rear subframe, these retain the displacer during assembly only. Once under load the displacer can't come out. The rubber springs aren't retained other than by the preload from the suspension (and rust !) so there really is no difference. The front rubbers don't need assembly retainers as the spring compressor holds them up, the rears have nothing so you just hold them in place until the radius arm is loading them. I wouldn't go through all of that hassle just for this.

BWA and Robin - I did wonder as I couldn't see what use the hydro displacer retaining bracket thingies would have once the system was pressurised. I have started to do this and have got the ball joint broken so far on one side. Just wondering now whether I should continue -maybe the only reason to do that would be to try and retain some originality in the car. Mind you only the anorak originality police would look at that part of the car so maybe it isn't worth going on. I will have a think.

No one will ever know they're missing Gordon, unless they strip it down. When I bought a new wet rear frame from Heritage I didn't realise the lugged plates were missing until I was assembling it but just carried on as I knew it wouldn't matter once assembled and loaded. My displacers haven't fallen out yet after 10 years

Definitely not worth going through all of that hassle just for this reason, just refit your balljoints, you can always refit the plates if you ever have to do a suspension strip down in the future.

mab01uk wrote: ↑Sat Apr 24, 2021 8:10 pm Definitely not worth going through all of that hassle just for this reason, just refit your balljoints, you can always refit the plates if you ever have to do a suspension strip down in the future.

Thanks to all for the info and advice- it is much appreciated. I think I will just leave the retaining brackets job just now then.