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Opinions please! Would you guys go for full panel replacement on the rear quarters because they are dented and wavy around the arches (but zero rust) or would you just try to pound them out and use filler? These are pretty inaccessible close to the wheel arch- you can't get a hammer in there from the inside so I am struggling on deciding on the best approach.

What would you guys do in this case?

What mk is it? Mk3 onwards I’d deffo replace - you can get a full panel. Mk1/2 you’ll need to either seam the panel or use the m machine ones. Not so easy.

Dr S wrote: ↑Tue Mar 30, 2021 4:03 pm What mk is it? Mk3 onwards I’d deffo replace - you can get a full panel. Mk1/2 you’ll need to either seam the panel or use the m machine ones. Not so easy.

This is a Mk1. M Machine do a true Mk1 panel then?

They do. It’s cut in at the window sill, then to the B pillar.

Interesting. Maybe replacement is the right way to go as long as it is a decent fit. Here is a closer look at the ripples in the panel around the top of the arch. The light is actually accentuating how bad it is but it gives you a better idea...

That’s not pretty!

To straighten this you DO NOT hammer from the inside. You only need to get the comma-shaped dolly inside and hammer from the outside.

Forgot to say: where it then still needs be, you can still pull dents out with some welded on washers and a dent puller.

I see what you mean... The narrow end of the comma-shaped dolly might fit in there. It is worth a try. I'll get a dolly in that shape and give it a try before pulling that whole panel off.

Providing the metal isn’t stretched too much (which can be shrunk to an extent) then I wouldn’t be thinking about replacing that.

Me neither - original is usually the best to work with if you can.

Since it all appears to be good metal, have you ever considered lead loading that area. It looks like it's too big an area for filler but lead loading is very forgiving

Peter Laidler wrote: ↑Tue Mar 30, 2021 5:38 pm Since it all appears to be good metal, have you ever considered lead loading that area. It looks like it's too big an area for filler but lead loading is very forgiving

Maybe. I bought all the stuff to do lead loading but never really had a chance to use it. I am a little concerned that the metal is a bit stretched so I will need to watch for this... The nice thing about race/rally cars is that they aren't driven in salty environments. The bad thing about race/rally cars is that they can get pretty beat up from thrashing!

AndyPen wrote: ↑Tue Mar 30, 2021 4:48 pm Me neither - original is usually the best to work with if you can.

Really? I’d never be able to get that to start to lie flat.
What’s your trick? Heat and a shrinking hammer?

I would give it to "Dr Mabo" for an hour.
Looking at his work on the broad speed, with his skills he would have it looking pristine using an old tin tray.

Dr S wrote: ↑Tue Mar 30, 2021 8:59 pm

AndyPen wrote: ↑Tue Mar 30, 2021 4:48 pm Me neither - original is usually the best to work with if you can.

Really? I’d never be able to get that to start to lie flat.
What’s your trick? Heat and a shrinking hammer?

I don't have the skills sadly, but know people who do. I've seen them take something like that back to a high standard.

Along with the coma dolly, I had lots of various shaped pry bars, suitably bent shaped and polished, some made out of metal, some wood to push/lever/persuade sheet metal back to where it needs to go......

One tip, is, try not to move too much metal all at once in a particular area.....lots of small pushes from different directions, is a lot better than trying to remove a big bump, or divot all at once.......

Try to see what direction the divot came from, and, push it back the opposite way, not always possible, but, it does help a bit.....

It is a tough little area to do, with the inner wheel arch, and, the rear seat back pan in the way.......

If it was in my shop I would pull with the dent puller and sharing the wave out with a 4.5 inch metal shrinking disc. Not worth replacing solid metal when it can be fixed.

Does it ever make sense to just cut out this section around the arch and replace that area with a patch cut from a new quarter panel? I presume this is not a great idea because of the problem finishing the resultant long weld?

I’ve done it on a rotten panel and it’s not easy to lose the weld and make good.

If I had to do it again, I’d choose a heritage mk3 panel and join just rear of the B post, as I did to HOY.

If it was just dents and no rot at all, I’d get it as good as I can and then fill.

Gary Schulz wrote: ↑Wed Mar 31, 2021 1:00 pm Does it ever make sense to just cut out this section around the arch and replace that area with a patch cut from a new quarter panel? I presume this is not a great idea because of the problem finishing the resultant long weld?

you probably end up doing just as much straightening work after welding as if you planished the current panel.