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Hello Guys

Engine out after the gearbox failure

My engine stabiliser bracket is tired , I'm gonna weld a new one,

What additional steady doing you recommend for fast road use?

Off topic : I like your engine lifting bracket, is that a BMC tool ?. I presume it hangs the engine at the correct angle to hook the diff housing under the floor.

I don't think you need an additional steady when you have a remote gearbox, my engine doesn't move.
Only time I've experienced those steady brackets break is on 850's with magic wands and on cars with rod change boxes.

111Robin wrote: ↑Sat Mar 20, 2021 7:16 pm Off topic : I like your engine lifting bracket, is that a BMC tool ?. I presume it hangs the engine at the correct angle to hook the diff housing under the floor.

Yes it's an old BMC lifting tool, works perfect with remote and magic wand gearbox

There are 2 positions, for remote and for road change gear box

I added both lower ones to mine when I removed the remote shifter and went back to magic wand


I borrowed the same lift bracket from my friend, you can get them new - they’re a copy of the Sykes Pickavant tool
https://www.minisport.com/tol001071-min ... -tool.html

The original bracket that's spot welded to the bulkhead I find work surprisingly well - obviously when there's no rust behind them ! I'll add though that breakages of them isn't unknown to me, so in preping cars, I also run a wide bead of weld around them.

I wrote a full technical write up on this very subject about 18 months ago including the alignment pitfalls you might encounter., M-Machine do the part and loaned nbe the parts to photograph and use for the tech write-up.

Find the article in the tech articles in the 'how we did it' section unless someone wot's clever wiv compu'ers inn'i like can highlight the article.

MINI RELATED HOW TO; Repairing the engine steady bracket.

Be warned if replacing with a new one: The bulkhead crossmember template for the NEW is not the same as the template for the OLD. Or just read the article to save me repeating it again......

Thank you

I made the same operation on one of my friend Mk1

I use the later one piece rubbers on my original dog bone and it has worked well.

https://www.minispares.com/product/Clas ... 01320.aspx

With a remote gearbox the rubber mount at the rear of the changer housing acts as an additional steady.

Just by coincidence I’ve removed the engine ( for the first time in my ownership ) today from JWA using a Sykes picavant bracket. Excellent tool, lifting on the bottom option. I’ve used it before on my rod change Mini on the top option and cannot praise it enough. JWA had a ADO16 timing back plate fitted to the engine, and the mating mount / bracket bolted to the subframe, which I will be sticking with as I think it’s a good and simple upgrade. Photos available if interested.