mk1-forum.net

Ok my excuse is I have only ever fitted and changed newer front subframes!

With Mk1's is it just metal to metal on the rear mounting for the front subframe?
And I guess there is no teardrop mounting on the front mounts , so again, is it just bolt away?

I also have a towing eye, were they fitted or kept in the boot?

Many thanks

Ed

Front Subframe on a Mk1-1976 ca had no rubber mountings between subframe and Body.

The Towing Eye is mounted in the front. Normally on both sides.

Nice one.
Thanks

I think a bit like you Ed.... When I dropped rear end of my Mk2 front sub frame in the Summer of '19 or so (to rebuild the steering rack), I didn't like the idea of metal to metal contact between the rear of the front sub frame and the floor pan. So I cut a couple of pieces of 3mm thick neoprene matting to suit, 1 piece per side. After rebuilding/rebushing/refitting the rack, lowered the body onto the sub frame, drilled through the rubber and bolted the whole lot down as before but with the neoprene cushion between the body and sub frame. Worked a treat. I don't know if it's any quieter - or anything else....., but it set my mind at rest!

Peter Laidler wrote: ↑Wed Feb 03, 2021 1:36 pm After rebuilding/rebushing/refitting the rack, lowered the body onto the sub frame, drilled through the rubber and bolted the whole lot down as before but with the neoprene cushion between the body and sub frame. Worked a treat. I don't know if it's any quieter - or anything else....., but it set my mind at rest!

Peter, if you do so, you better loctite the bolts. Because with the rubber inlay you can loose the clamping force of the bolts. The short ones are not good in that respect even without a cushion in between. Here clearly "the longer the better"

If it's dry suspesion don't forget those subrame to body spacers !!!! the ones that fit on the subframe turret that goes under the crossmember , If you have not got the them , Minispares part Number , Spacer 21A2341 .

I simply used stainless bolts and flat washers with NYLOCKS. Just slid under the car and had a look at them. Still as tight as a ducks bottom

Yep, I had the neoprene on standby, and I'm sure it will compress etc but it just seems wrong to have metal on metal!
Siontiffically, it stops any cathodic action....nah, it just seems wrong!

I do have the spacers cheers, and what looks like a lock gasket for the top.

And finally, a rhetorical question..how on earth am I supposed to know how tight a ducks arse is?!!

I say rhetorical as I do not want an answer, thank you and goodnight.

I would use sealant Paper, maybe 0.8mm instead of neoprene.

About the Ducks Arse, no Idea...

Bitsilly wrote: ↑Wed Feb 03, 2021 6:01 pm Yep, I had the neoprene on standby, and I'm sure it will compress etc but it just seems wrong to have metal on metal!
Siontiffically, it stops any cathodic action....nah, it just seems wrong!

I do have the spacers cheers, and what looks like a lock gasket for the top.

And finally, a rhetorical question..how on earth am I supposed to know how tight a ducks arse is?!!

by Fanfaniracing » Wed Feb 03, 2021 9:48 pm

I would use sealant Paper, maybe 0.8mm instead of neoprene.

About the Ducks Arse, no Idea...

I am led to believe during the war (I served my time with a lot of fitters of that generation), and was told that steam pipes and critical pipework on RN ships were hand scraped coated with linseed oil and bolted up, one thread above the nuts showing. The reasoning being there is no jointing to allow flange movement which could then extrude the joint material, and if indeed joints were used they were 1/64" as opposed to the 1/16 which would of been the usual thickness to used.

Yeeeeerrrs... Galvanic corrosion won't occur between like metals... A couple of coats of zinc primer and top coat and nice tight bolts.

I would not be introducing any flexible material between bits meant to be firmly bolted together....

I still remember nightmares when I was employed to look after a bunch of Her Majesty's minesweepers... Alloy frames covered in best West African mahogany attached using stainless steel bolts...

But I had a beautiful staircase at home made from leftover African mahogany and Burmese teak...

Cheers, Ian

I would not be introducing any flexible material between bits meant to be firmly bolted together....

I agree with Ian.

Yep so do I.

And the science thing was a joke, but how about 'like metal stick! And yes they are painted, I am being faceious!

When I was disappointed with the handling feel of a 1999 mini I had, it was apparently because of flexible subframe mounts.

Thanks all.

Not relative to this post ..however on the pickup yesterday.. i dropped down a later rubber mount front subframe to find that 3 out of 4 subframe mounts had separated at the rubber bond to the steel of the mounting brackets.
Issy got it right with the first Mk1 design

Reminds me of the front suspension mount discussions many moons ago. I think it came up when people were converting wet to dry as well. Basically you could get a thin rubber gasket, or at least that is how I recall it.

We put them on my wife's car and they are still there, I am guessing this would be around the late 70s. I spotted another about 3 years ago when helping someone with their car. What was remarkable was the almost complete absence of rust, whereas on most cars I've found holes!!!

There are also shims between the front lower bolting face, and, the front valence, used as required......I have seen as many as 3 installed from the factory......And, sometimes none....

I kind of wondered how he knew, but to polite to ask. When I can get back in the shop I'll be installing a couple MK1 front subs. Having one joint to attract moisture or two? I may apply a heavy sealer maybe non hardening on the rear tabs. Steve (CTR)