mk1-forum.net

question re: how bolts are oriented for a 1966 "S".
I have seen lots of pictures with mixed results.


the picture above is for illustration :
- master cylinder bolts (blue)
- heater hose bracket bolts (red)
- dogbone engine stabilizer (yellow)

do the bolts go up or down.

the dogbone on a '66 has a bolt and not a shaft.

- master cylinder bolts (blue) - Up. Not bolts but captive studs in pedal box so will only go up.
- heater hose bracket bolts (red) - Up. Much easier in production to put the bolt in ‘blind’ in the cross member cut out than try and fit the nut in there.
- dogbone engine stabilizer (yellow) - Down. Those that look like they’re done the other way are probably the spacer piece with the double male end.

I agree with Graeme on this (and most other things as it happens )

While on this topic, which way do the rear bolts of the front subframe go? The ones that fix it to the heel board.
The early parts diagrams show the bolts going in from below.

Andy

Head pointing up, thread through the floor.

GraemeC wrote: ↑Thu Nov 12, 2020 7:23 am dogbone engine stabilizer (yellow) - Down. Those that look like they’re done the other way are probably the spacer piece with the double male end.

Mini Spares indicates the special double-ended stud (2A5873) was used at the firewall-end of the engine stabilizer rod on 1959-1962 Minis.
Since mine is a '66 (and I do not have the stud) I will be using the bolt.
On another forum topic I was told to always insert bolt facing down in case the nut comes off.
So... I guess when I see a nut on top of the dogbone I will assume it is an early mk1 using this special stud.

Those studs are a TOTAL pain in the arse!!!!!

You have to remove both master cylinders to replace the bulkhead end dog bone bush.

mk1 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 12, 2020 2:03 pm Those studs are a TOTAL pain in the arse!!!!!

You have to remove both master cylinders to replace the bulkhead end dog bone bush.

Absolutely. God only knows what they were thinking, but thank goodness they didn't last too long.

Probably the most stupid idea in the design from a removal point of view.

I use a piece of 9/16" O/D high pressure tubing that I use at work. The I/D is just small enough to run a 5/16 drill through and is a good fit on the bush. Then a 5/16 UNF bolt pointing downwards.

Spider wrote: ↑Thu Nov 12, 2020 6:10 pm

mk1 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 12, 2020 2:03 pm Those studs are a TOTAL pain in the arse!!!!!

You have to remove both master cylinders to replace the bulkhead end dog bone bush.

Absolutely. God only knows what they were thinking, but thank goodness they didn't last too long.

Thought it was just my incompetence, that hadn’t found an easier way to remove them....

Even in 1968 they used that silly double ended stud on the firewall side of the dogbone. 2A-5873

My 1964 850 had the double ended stud at the master cylinder end.

I swapped the double ended stud to the block, and a bolt and the internal spacer from the engine end. I found that works a lot easier

I have a unmolested / never been apart late 64 and mid 66 cars here. Both have the nuts for the heater hose plate inside the cross member.

As for that stud, I've a few here that were never refitted over the years - what a pain they are as said!!!

Sounds like “anything goes”.
This seems to be a common theme for mini production!

I checked the heater plate bolts on my 2 unmolested cars last night my 1960 Morris has nuts up & my 1961 Morris has nuts down.

Make of that what you want

My 66 S with petrified original heater hoses has the nuts up.

mk1 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 13, 2020 8:11 am I checked the heater plate bolts on my 2 unmolested cars last night my 1960 Morris has nuts up & my 1961 Morris has nuts down.

Make of that what you want

Sounds to me like it was up to whoever was on the line at the time!