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After fitting new S discs to my 63 Mini and also the correct size rear wheel cylinders I still can’t get a good feel to the pedal. Am I correct in thinking that the S had not only a thicker Brake pedal but the fitting point for the master cylinder Clevis pin was at a slightly different location ? So this poses the question should I fit a S brake pedal ?
Was the S pedal fitted to any other models other than the S . Anyone got a S/H pedal ? Does anyone make a repro?

Thanks Roy

Have you got a servo and what bore master cylinder do you have,
I believe a 0.625 Cooper master cylinder would be better without a servo.

you definitely need the disc brake pedal, i have done some experimenting with different pedals (and modifying them) and you'll never get a good pedal with the drum brake pedal with discs. either the cooper s/1275gt pedal or a pedal from any later model mini fitted with non servo discs (not the direct servo type - these have a bigger hole for the clevis pin)

I put 'S' discs on my old MK1 back in the '80's and I just used the original pedal and all was fine with it, back then I didn't even know that there was a different pedal on an 'S'. I didn't have a servo fitted if that makes any odds and the other thing that happened was the new 'S' master cylinder that I put on knacked up after a few miles (problem with the seal) and I just stuck the original MC back on temporarly, though I never got around to swopping them back again, I can't remember what rear wheel cylinders I put on? So, basically I ended up with the 850 set up (possibly with 'S' rear cylinders) but with the 'S' discs up front and the brakes worked spot on with a good pedal. Maybe I just struck it lucky?

Have converted lots from drum to disc, never ever replaced the pedal, always had good solid pedal.......

Front pads are not maintaining contact with the disc. This is common and allows free travel before you get a full pedal. Remove the pads and replace with a flat spacer which is slightly thinner than the pad and push the pedal to move the pistons closer to the disc. Next fit the pad as tightly as possible between the piston and disc (might need to tap the pad in with a hammer).
With this done the pad and disc contact will remain close and your pedal will be normal (provided the sytem has no faults and is bleed correctly).