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Hello Guys

I have a very unpleasant vibration on my 997 gear lever,







When I drive it the gear lever is vibrating, buzzing/sizzling

This is the early one with the black gear lever, and the domed gaiter

The only way to stop this little noise is to old it slightly on the left or on the right

I know it's a common problem and that why the previous owner fitted the 64/69 chromed gear lever with the spring and the plastic bush

My sed top is in good condition but the little noise is irritating, does anyone have a tip to avoid it??

Many thanks

Charles

Mine is exactly the same despite using all new wearing parts.
It’s exactly correct for the period so enjoy it
Alternatively, I think the works teams added rubber hose round the lever to change the resonant frequency.

Didn’t heavier gear knobs have a rubber inner or something too? kud, or some name like that?

Hello Guys!

One of my friend's 997 had exactly the same problem and, we change all the wearing parts inside as well

Works team use a 1/2 rubber hose you're right, even on later cars (Cooper s mk2 for example)

But as my car is unrestored I would like to avoid to modify it, may be a heavier spring under the plastic cup? part number 40 on the pic

First, nice 997....looks great.

The noise....there are a few things that can be done to help get rid of the annoying rattle.
You could do two of the three fixes...

The rattle is caused by vibration...this is transmitted down the remote housing and up through the gear lever.
The vibration is exaggerated by loose components (worn)

Attaching a couple of pictures showing what can be done to get rid of the vibration.

1. Most owners overlook the diff housing when rebuilding the unit....the two bronze bushings (# 3) end up with an oval wear pattern....these should be replaced on any rebuild...Unfortunately, you won't be able to replace these now.

The following can be done without removing the engine...just remove the remote housing.

2. The rubber washers on the bell crank shaft....these are quite important,.....they act like a damper......and the shaft should also be changed...
this is high wear area.

3. This is a mod we have always done...even on the later MK1 with the rubber damper gear lever.
We drill and tap the remote housing (at the arrow)
Then we add the same anti vibration bits (# 17, 18, 19 and 20)….Circled in orange....these parts are readily available from suppliers like Somerford.

Worth a try.

Another modification to add to Dermotts post. Fit the boot to the gear stick before fitting it to the remote and then tywrap it tight to the housing.

1071Bob .today he has given me my "Learn Something New Everyday" .. a very good idea

Hello Guys

Very good Idea Dermott, I'm gonna pull the engine out run a few months the half-moons eat and the clutch seal are faulty,

So I will check everything

Those vibrations wasn't so hearable on a brand new car I guess?

Thank you Bob your Idea is brillant! I'm gonna use it as well if you don't mind

Many thanks for your help!!

I have a doubt, should I repaint the engine or leave it like that in this little survivor ?

Otherwise the car hasn't any rust and got all its original pane, the floor panel still have the paint and their shape

Gearshift vibrations were an issue from day one in both magic wand and remote types....

Charlynsane wrote: ↑Sun May 10, 2020 7:06 pm

I have a doubt, should I repaint the engine or leave it like that in this little survivor ?

Otherwise the car hasn't any rust and got all its original pane, the floor panel still have the paint and their shape

My vote would be to keep it as original as you can for as long as you can... because once you start!!!

I usually ignore these posts these days because I've posted the solution before an no one has ever come back with a positive reaction .... so I guess it just works for me.

I once complained of this condition to an Old and Bold ex BMC apprentice and he showed me a simple solution (after I'd gone down all the (expensive) new components./rebuild routes to no avail). A Morris Minor front trunnion bush (at least that's what he called what he sold me) shoved ridged edge upwards on the bottom of the gear lever. Re-install lever and relax in peace...

When I installed a QuikShift I found the trunnion bush doesn't work; its too short... you need a custom length of heater hose instead. This a slightly more complex operation as you have to determine the correct length of hose. Too short = vibration and too long = interferes with the actual shift... It needs to be juuuust right.

Its probably not acceptable to the originally crowd ... but no one will ever know if you don't take the shift boot off

Cheers, Ian

ahah you're right..

my father asked me to change the water pump on his 67 Moke

something went wrong in our head! Lockdown syndrome? we started a full restoration

All good advice is given.. also worth a check of the Rubber Mounting that supports the remote extension casting .. i seem to find that rear Mounting on my cars have started to semi split the Mounting Rubber bonding away from its two bolt mounting steel base & therefore not doing its job .. this was a known issue from back in the day.

1071 S, I dont suppose you have a part number for the Morris Minor trunnion bush?

1071Bob - great idea the track rod end boot - is it a standard Minis sized one, or from something else? I want to try this in my historic racer Mini!
Cheers

Sorry Craig, I can show you a picture. I just fitted the bit Bill gave me about 35 years ago...

Cheers, Ian

- is it a standard Minis sized one, or from something else? I want to try this in my historic racer Mini!
Cheers
[/quote]

It's not a new modification, I've seen it done with knuckle pin rubber boots. The early gearsticks had a larger ball on the end which was a metal to metal contact with lower socket. You need to damp the movement between the two parts. I used the mini trackrod end boot because it had two grooves which enabled me to tywrap it tight to the 'stick and socket. Some heavy grease inside would help to.
I did try a heavier gauge spring under the plastic cup but that gave me to much load on the lever across the neutral gate.

1071 S wrote: ↑Mon May 11, 2020 3:41 am I usually ignore these posts these days because I've posted the solution before an no one has ever come back with a positive reaction .... so I guess it just works for me.

I once complained of this condition to an Old and Bold ex BMC apprentice and he showed me a simple solution (after I'd gone down all the (expensive) new components./rebuild routes to no avail). A Morris Minor front trunnion bush (at least that's what he called what he sold me) shoved ridged edge upwards on the bottom of the gear lever. Re-install lever and relax in peace...

When I installed a QuikShift I found the trunnion bush doesn't work; its too short... you need a custom length of heater hose instead. This a slightly more complex operation as you have to determine the correct length of hose. Too short = vibration and too long = interferes with the actual shift... It needs to be juuuust right.

Its probably not acceptable to the originally crowd ... but no one will ever know if you don't take the shift boot off

Cheers, Ian

I had this problem a few years back on my Mk2, I ordered a MM trunnion bush but it didn't seem to fit, maybe it was the wrong bush? Seem to recall it looked pretty similar to the bushes that go in the engine steady bar. I'd tried replacing the spring and plunger before without success and also cleaned and greased the rods in the remote housing.

Anyway in the end I used some heater hose although I can't recall what length or exactly how. This worked for 3-4,000 miles but it's starting to rattle again now.

I like the sound of the track rod end rubber fix. Sounds like a lockdown kind of job!

I don't know if this will work... I can see it in "Preview".. but

In case, here's one I prepared earlier...

Cheers, Ian

Yes that worked thanks.

Will have to see if I've still got that bush! Looks like I remembered it but longer than an engine steady bush.