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Does any one have any measurements of the door aperture? Ideally from a known good car.

My van has been in a shunt at some point in its life, and I am having an absolute nightmare trying to get the doors to fit. Starting to think the whole things out of whack .

I have been given some pointers, just would like a few measurements to have as references.

Cheers!

CORRECTION

On a '61 with original doors (but new A panels) the aperture is 925 to 928 mm at the door hinge levels.

Specsavers are closed a t m.

Don't have a van but:
3 cars all std 1967 to 1968
Hinge level
36 3/8" to 36 5/8"
925mm to 931mm
No two measurements were the same ....top to bottom or side to side on any of the cars
No surprises there then

Cheers guys, I shall check what I've got tomorrow!

You don't happen to have the width at the bottom of the A post? As it touches there also.

I had measured upper and lower widths on both sides at the level of the hinges.

The passenger side is a nice fit with the aperture 925 mm wide at both levels.

Obviously below this lower hinge everything is curved making measurements difficult.

If the car has had a new door step fitted, that could be slightly too high making the door snag. The shape and fit of older repair panels was notoriously bad.

Sorry I was referring to the windscreen A pillar above the swage line. I wasnt very clear there, the window frame of the door catches.

Ah yes this area often suffers in a front ender.

Once the A panel is tacked on to give decent door gaps and keeping the lower rear door corner flush with the B post, if necessary, we porta-power the screen pillar to get the gap round the window frame right.

A panels often need some dressing to get the curve right round the door.

300mm down from the top of the aperture, its 823mm wide.

Is your door sound ? If the braze joint holding either end of the window frame has cracked, or been poorly repaired, the window frame could really be anywhere.

Ah that sounds reassuring that I’ve got some play there if I need it.

Does moving the pillar with a porta-power slightly not affect the windscreen fit?

I’m fairly confident with the door as it was pretty solid, and only required a reskin

From experience, doors always require manipulation to get a good fit.

Sometimes the window frames need a bit of a whack with a hammer and block of wood to get the gaps right. It has been known to have to cut through the window frame and lower slightly if the gap is too tight.

An example of how doors can differ ... I have two perfect and original passenger doors. I fitted one to HOY and the gaps were not brilliant and would have needed quite a bit of alteration. The second door fitted almost perfectly straight away !!

Thanks for your advice.

I’m heading out to measure up now and will report back.

Do any of you have any tips on how to get some space here?

Ive got 4mm gap between the a panel and lower door, reasonable gap at the top of the window frame. The rear of the door is tight as it has been in a shunt as I said, so that will be slit and dress back. However this corner has stumped me slightly?