mk1-forum.net

Just checking...is it Tim that replaces the hose on the hydro displacers????
Anyone have them done...maybe post a few pictures and the cost of the service.
Thanks

Yes, Tim at Minimail:-
https://www.minimail.co.uk/parts/
(see Suspension pdf file)
HYDROLASTIC DISPLACER - REFURBISHED . EXCHANGE £115.00 + vat 21A2008R

Also Hydrolastic Service here:-
http://www.hydragasandhydrolasticservic ... rvice.html

Hydrolastic Service quoted £100 per to rehose, derust, etch prime, paint and rig test, plus shipping.
I haven't used them personally though.

I know someone who used minimail and new hose failed after a short time and he couldn't get any backup at all, ended up fitting a good used one. He was disappointed after spending so much money to get no warranty on work done,

Been studying one of these units....doesn't look all that difficult to insert a new threaded union.....crimping the hose may be a bit more of an issue.. Is the original hose /union threaded into the displacer>????

No one has the facility to swage on a new hose to the existing spout Dermott.

The spout is cut off flush and tapped to 1/4 NPT and then a 1/4 NPT x 3/8 hose end is crimped onto the somewhat unoriginal looking hydraulic hose and then glued/fitted into the displacer.

Swage a fitting onto the other end to connect to the adaptors.

Unfortunately the fitting that goes onto the adaptors is not quite right (if you look at them) as the seating faces are not identical but do seal.

I am looking into trying to find a better looking hose and also a more accurate adaptor end set up but have other things to do and is not high only priorities at present.

I aim to have better looking hoses on HOY

Ian Kennedy at http://www.hydragasandhydrolasticservic ... rvice.html gives a fantastic service. Great guy, great job and fully rig tested. If you had any problems, which I am sure you wouldn't, he would certainly stand by his work.

This is only MY opinion, based on having a hate-hate affair with hydro and having looked into mine a zillion times.
The units. Mine have been in and out and up and down more times that a whores drawers
If the hose leaks at the unit end it can be removed by cutting the swaged sleeve away. IF the nozzle part, the intake/outlet of the unit is OK and not rusted through it's quite possible to get your local PIRTEK or hydraulic hose fitting/repair service to fit and swage a new hose to the units. Alas the old Dunlop HYFLEX low pressure hose isn't available so I'm lead to believe. But that fact didn't bother me I have to say!
The other end - the end that screws to the pipe. As Andy says, an exact thread/taper from that end doesn't seem to be available BUT a replacement is, albeit not exactly the same taper BUT IT WILL SEAL. You can just slightly machine the taper so that it is exact (there's a little bit more to this than meets the eye it has to be said..., but just a little depending who you get the end from.
OR:
if the nut and cone are still good you carefully cut the original crimp off the hose, release the nut and cone off the old hose and have that end crimped/swaged on the new hose. Been there, done it, got the tee shirt and shredded hands.

And while we're here, don't accept that the sectionalised drawing in the workshop manual is anything like reality!

The very BEST way you can preserve the unit to hose joint is to modify the unit while it's out as detailed a few months ago.

So are you saying that Pirtek have the ability to swage a hose onto the spout Peter ? I thought this was the major issue in re-hosing ?

It would be possible to use a ferrule to re-swage the adaptor end to keep the original fitting.

I recently used Ian Kennedy for 6 hydro units. Re-hosed and pressure tested. He also repaired thte metal shroud on one that had rusted away. All for £85 each which I think included the return postage.

My local PIRTEK man had an inset collar thinggy to crimp the ferrule in his van. Not used very often except on some bob-cat stuff ( ?? forgive me if it wasn't that but the name sticks in the old memory cells). While not questioning the re-hosers in any way, but everyone having a set re-hosed should take the front or rear adapter thinggy with them to make sure that the new cone and especially the NUT fits into/onto the adapter thinggy* and screws down fully because while the first 4 or5 or so threads are OK, the nut can tighten up on the adapter. So just be fore-warned.

I didn't want to go into detail but you can overcome this by a bit judicious thread cleaning
*Andy, you loaned me a half decent M&F thread while I was writing up some notes ages ago.

Section through a Mini Hydrolatic Unit - (Sectioning & Photo: Tim of Minimail)

The future of Hydrolastic suspension:-
viewtopic.php?f=5&p=117115#p117115

That's a pretty good picture by Tim at minimail Mab and shows the differences between reality and the pictures. What would be even better would be a knackered unit set up in a lathe and sliced across the outer bulge joint. So that the top and bottom parts came apart and the guts could be pulled out. Anyone got a knackered unit to slice apart on the lathe?

Is this one knackered enough for you Peter?
PMed

D

Yep, that'll do nicely thanks. See you at Beaulieu! Do you have the broken off intake/outlet nozzle bit?

Hi. Does anyone know the nearest hydraulic fitting to the female end of the hydro hose? I believe the thread is 5/8 UNF with a dome mating surface of god knows what angle. JIC appears to use UNF, but 5/8 is not a standard size and the dome is a cone, so no use. 3/8 is the nearest size BSP but is too large and the wrong thread. What do the re-hosers use, the likes of those metioned earlier in the thread, there must something that will work. Displacer end seems simple with a threaded/tapped union, although 1/4BSP or NPT wouldn't leave much, so maybe 1/8BSP? Many thanks, Richard.

I've got the Gates hose end number somewhere Richard.

It has an O ring on the sealing face and although when looking at it, it doesn't inspire much confidence, I have been reliably informed that it works fine.

Will find number and let you know.

Thanks Andrew

This is the one ...

https://www.hydra-star.co.uk/Products/G ... g/00501330

So is that the one the re-hosers use, or one you've heard works? Cheers