mk1-forum.net

I have been meaning to start a thread as I browse the site numerous times a day.

I've been working on my 1961 mini for just under a month now, as I take it back to a shell and then bring it back to life. Trying to document it via film as well. I have uploaded a few bit to utube
It's all the same colour now, needs turning back to Tartan Red with a black roof!
It started life with a 850 engine, which I have, replaced with an Oselli engine. I've been talking to David there about it. I'm after the bore & stroke for a OE1125 as I can't seem to find it on the web. My measurements are 66mm x 84mm (only did it roughly), which makes it a 1150cc engine.

I'm also after help identifying the Piston number M2 007 W1, as that is also escaping me.
I have production date of 27th Dec 1960


I'll try to update the thread every now & then.

SUPER I will enjoy your topic about your Mk1

Kees.

If you look through the Oselli section on the mk1-performance site the 1125 engine is 1099cc, so yours may have been bored out at some stage?
http://mk1-performance-conversions.co.uk/oselli.htm

Crank would be 1098 crank (83.72mm) or was it 997 Cooper (81.28mm) or something special?

I have been making some steady progress on the motor, less on the body.

The engine has come apart now and can now see the crank, it has OE stamped on it. So presumably it is an Oselli one.
This is stamped on the block Should have Cooper S 510 rockers and shaft with steel push rods.

Anyone have one of these engines with the full spec? Oselli seem to be hard to get information from.

It has a 84mm (ish) stroke so making it a 1098 one. Swapped the word stroke for bore!

Not sure if the picture is showing the OE stamp. A lot of BMC Cranks have OE forged into them.

I don't recall Oselli stamping their cranks and the one in the pictures looks very 'standard'.

No A series can have a bore of 84mm I'm afraid, there is simply not enough length in the block to get to that size. The 'small bore' engines have an upper limit of 68mm with a standard bore of 64.5mm.

The stroke of the crankshaft would be around 84mm on an 1098cc engine (83.72mm is standard).

All A series production engines have steel push rods.

A Cooper S 510 camshaft can be identified by a single raised ring between the lobes for number 4 cylinder (close to the oil pump end) like this one:
https://www.custojusto.pt/porto/pecas-c ... 0-26092923

The A1 stamped into the block is the factory bore grade.

12G82 as seen in your photo is the casting number for the 1098 crank

Edited my post, yes I meant stroke not bore!

Will wip the cam out later on and see.

Thanks

Didn’t get time to wip the cam out today, but took a look at the cam. Started to drop both the subframes off the body.

What a lovely project!

The basis of a really special little Mini.

Definitely a car worth saving - nice job

Quick update

Shell is stripped awaiting me finding someone to blast it. I have asked a chap I know who does dry-ice blasting about it, but he thinks it's not harsh enough, so still looking.

Should I leave the wiring loom in that goes via the roof sills? Inside the shell Took the starter button out.. The carb has some extra flange on it.

You have an early manifold for the 1 1/4 carb that has an adapter for a later 1 1/2 carb.
Bruce

I would take out everything, wiring loom ect so you don‘t need to worry about any Damage
That could arrive from blasting...

Nice Project!

Fanfaniracing wrote:I would take out everything, wiring loom ect so you don‘t need to worry about any Damage
That could arrive from blasting...

Nice Project!

Will take the loom out then. Thanks

Mrgoose wrote:Shell is stripped awaiting me finding someone to blast it. I have asked a chap I know who does dry-ice blasting about it, but he thinks it's not harsh enough, so still looking.

I recently had a Range Rover shell blasted with ice, this is perfect if you want to remove the under seal and stone chip, it will however leave paint intact. If you want a bare shell, soda blasting will be the way to go

Mrgoose wrote:

Fanfaniracing wrote:I would take out everything, wiring loom ect so you don‘t need to worry about any Damage
That could arrive from blasting...

Nice Project!

Will take the loom out then. Thanks

If you tie a string or wire to the loom before pulling it out of the car, you can leave the string in place of the wiring for ease of fishing it back through later.

That's a good idea........ you see it done all the time with underground cables but never thought of it on a car

To cut a very long story short...

My mini is back with me.
Front fixed, car sprayed, engine and gearbox rebuild.

Looking good!

Looks very good .. Just a suggestion re; the Front Subframe " Brake Pipe fitting with the Brake Switch "..i set that fitting a bit more rearward as with the engine installed it all gets a bit tight if you need to get to the brake pipe union on the pipe that comes from the bulkhead