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Any one got any info or tips about these distributors I've been given one for my 1380 with 286 cam stage 2 head lcb stage 2 hif 44 vizarded
Any one shed any light on it
Points gap?
Dwell angle?
Static timing?
Max advance?
Any literature they got when purchased
Any info would be great full

Is the distributor a 59d?

It looks the same as this one that has just sold

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253070372970

They can also be custom tuned, so not all of them will be the same. If you can get it spun on a distributor timing instrument it'll tell you the advance spec, otherwise Aldon should be able to provide the info as well?

Standard Red/Yellow curves:
http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/to ... ce-curves/

If it helps, this is the curve of the Aldon Yellow

My engine in its previous guise was very similar, 1380, 286, HS6, LCB etc.

On Aldon's own rolling road, Yellow was proven to be totally wrong for
this engine - It required a distributor which was closer to Red than Yellow.
(Even though Yellow was supposedly designed for this sort of spec...).

So this rather smacks in the face the "RACE APPLICATIONS ONLY" statement
made in the Mini Forum post. You will not know for sure what your engine
needs until you dyno it. The 'p' in "ayp" denotes "plus", i.e. A+. This will be
the dog drive type and will most likely therefore be a 59d Lucas type case.

It should also be noted that graphs tend to only show the centrifugal advance.
If an engine requires 36 degrees at full advance, a Yellow would need to be
timed in with 11 degrees of static advance.

Spider - Any chance you could overlay Yellow and Red on the same graph?
The Mini Forum requires a "sign-in" to view the .pdf files...

From memory:
- Yellow has 12 deg centrifugal advance
- Red has 10 deg centrifugal advance

Some fast road engines work well with a 10 deg dizzy. This allows more advance at idle for same advance at max rpm, can be useful for longer duration cams and/or high lift rockers.

Swapping primary advance springs also helps, but can be fiddly.

carbon wrote:From memory:
- Yellow has 12 deg centrifugal advance
- Red has 10 deg centrifugal advance

Some fast road engines work well with a 10 deg dizzy. This allows more advance at idle for same advance at max rpm, can be useful for longer duration cams and/or high lift rockers.

Swapping primary advance springs also helps, but can be fiddly.

So for 34 all in I would set it at 10 degrees

Exactly, 10 deg static advance would give you the desired 34 deg maximum advance.

ianh1968 wrote: Spider - Any chance you could overlay Yellow and Red on the same graph?
The Mini Forum requires a "sign-in" to view the .pdf files...

No worries



For what it's worth, I found the Aldon Red useless for anything.

For what it's worth, I found the Aldon Red useless for anything.

WHATEVER YOU DO!

DO NOT USE AN ALDON RED SPOT WITH A SWIFTUNE SW23 CAM.

The Aldon Red have a dangerously high amount of advance for these cams around 3000 - 5,500 rpm. Using one of these cams in my Wolseley racer resulted in a scrap set of pistons in less than 30 laps of Blyton due to pre-ignition caused by over advance in the mid range.

Hi Chris,

if i'm thinking right in your graph the Aldon Red has more total centrifugal advance ( 15º dizzy advance ) than the Aldon Yellow ?
i though it would be the other way around.. the Red having less total advance, i had in mind total advance for the Red was 10º ( dizzy advance ).

Cheers
Luis

Hey Luis,

I can't recall where I got the figures from that the graph is plotted from, but if I kept them on record, then I would have been sure that they were accurate. I also recall from my own experience, that the advance came in way too early and way too much. To try to get it to work means 'retarding' it so that it doesn't give too much advance when it's all in, but in doing so, it makes the engine very hard to get started.

Yes, it has a weird-arse curve that I can't see a use for. I can't see how it's a 'Race Distributor', maybe if it's total advance had about 10 degrees knocked off it, it might be useful for something.

I have one, I tried it (before I got the dissy dyno) and pretty much junked it soon after.

I think perhaps Mark should have said 'don't use it' in his post, not just with an SW23 but anything.

I think perhaps Mark should have said 'don't use it' in his post, not just with an SW23 but anything.

So what static advance should I set at what rpm suggestions

Also if I set idle to 1200 and turn the dizzy till revs rise then stop turn back 250 rpm as some people say set it this way I check the static advance and it's at 24 at 1700rpm

Birdy9182 wrote:So what static advance should I set at what rpm suggestions

Also if I set idle to 1200 and turn the dizzy till revs rise then stop turn back 250 rpm as some people say set it this way I check the static advance and it's at 24 at 1700rpm

Static advance is set at zero rpm, with engine static

carbon wrote:

Birdy9182 wrote:So what static advance should I set at what rpm suggestions

Also if I set idle to 1200 and turn the dizzy till revs rise then stop turn back 250 rpm as some people say set it this way I check the static advance and it's at 24 at 1700rpm

Static advance is set at zero rpm, with engine static

That's not possible you need the engine running at a base line rpm i.e. 1000 then set static

+1 Carbon
-1 Birdy

https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/static

ianh1968 wrote:+1 Carbon
-1 Birdy

https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/static

How do you know your at o degrees with a distributor just fitted and engine not running
You could start the car and find it's set a 20 degrees at 1000rpm
I do agree if it's not running all is static but where do you get ur reading of advance timing from if it's not moving

You should be able to line it up good enough to get it to start. Then you can check the idle timing.

If you have a dial back timing light you can also check the total advance (and also plot the advance curve at different rpm)

Birdy9182 wrote:

ianh1968 wrote:+1 Carbon
-1 Birdy

https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/static

How do you know your at o degrees with a distributor just fitted and engine not running
You could start the car and find it's set a 20 degrees at 1000rpm
I do agree if it's not running all is static but where do you get ur reading of advance timing from if it's not moving

How to check static timing


https://www.howacarworks.com/ignition-s ... tic-timing