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Does anyone if/where you can buy just a core for a radiator? Can't seem to find anywhere selling just the core. Thanks

I just take the radiator to a local radiator specialist and ask them to recore it being VERY CAREFUL to stipulate that you want the original tanks and side frames and Coventry Radiators label to be retained and not damaged.

Should think a Google for a radiator reconditioner close to you should be worth a try Richard

Andrew

Yeah, done that. For a simple recore it's between £65-£120. But as soon as I start talking about knocking out dents there's a sharp intake of breath and the price rises exponentially. Just thinking it can't be that hard to do yourself and I quite fancy having a go anyway. Got a few other later radiators to practice on first, it's only solder and 8 blind rivets. And if I do it myself I can media blast and knock out dents to my hearts content until it's flawless, which I doubt I'll get if I take it in. I may still end up getting it done by a local outfit, especially if I can't find a core, so I may just turn up with the tanks pre-dressed by me. But I'm one of those that would rather do a job myself if possible. Unless you know of somewhere reliable that doesn't need extra oxygen when faced with a few dents? Cheers.

I blew most dents out my header tank by sealing all outlets but in one i put a shraeder valve so i could pressurise it with an air line then just some gentle heat with a blow lamp and out they pop. Not too much heat though or you melt the joins and have the tags off.

That's an interesting idea. How did you seal the outlets?

Used old hoses with a bit of welded up pipe at the other end one of which had the valve. Old trick from gettting dents out motorcross exhuasts.

I've been doing my own radiators for a while now as too many of the radiator shops it seems have lost the skill of soldering and having said solder not leak.

They are not hard to do, but you do want to set aside a reasonable amount of time to do them. Getting everything clean and close fitting prior to soldering is key, however sometimes there can still be gaps for which solder just won't bridge, for these some plumbing metal can be handy. Solder is (usually) 30% lead / 70% tin, and plumbing metal is 30% tin / 70 % lead. Solder when heated is either in place or runs off. Plumbing metal when heated has a wide plastic range in which it can be pushed in to shape (and in to crevasses). This is the same stuff that is used for body filler, old school.

I am resigned here to having to purchase my cores through a radiator repairer. We seem to have only one local manufacturer of the cores (fortunately, they are good) and they won't sell direct, even to the (general auto) trade, they want us to open an account (after their rep comes for a visit) and buy 50 - 100 cores a month from them. Fortunately, I do have a repairer not too far away who will sell me cores on their own for a reasonable price.