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Is the cage inside this joint handed or symmetrical? I can see the inner part has a greater lead in at the inboard end but cannot see much of a difference in the cage.
Yes, it's all been stripped down, cleaned and mixed up!

They are Symmetrical and will go in either way, but best if it can be refitted in exactly the same way it was previously fitted, though it won't be the end of the world if it doesn't.

Spider. Observation today was that whilst the cage is symmetrical, there was an internal chamfer on the inboard side of the cage, so this is the way it'll go back in.
And the inner race will only be able to fit one way because if you get it the wrong way around, the circlip won't click in.
So job's sorted.

Back on this one again......

In the new CV joint kit, you get the joint, a boot, a couple of boot clips (that are pretty near impossible to fit right, so I use two potato sack wires and a "pull-twister" thingy) and TWO 50ml sachets of CV grease.

I have emptied one sachet into the joint and the boot (the manual recommends just 30ml) but what on earth is the is the other one for??

If you have a sachet left, you have not done the job right. There should be at least 3/4 sachet in your hair and 1/2 sachet up the walls!!

GraemeC wrote:If you have a sachet left, you have not done the job right. There should be at least 3/4 sachet in your hair and 1/2 sachet up the walls!!

On the dog, the carpet, the missus and the bed sheets too.



But more seriously,,,,,

30 ml is all they need. More is NOT better.

and on the bum of yr pants,,,,,,,

Spider wrote:

GraemeC wrote:If you have a sachet left, you have not done the job right. There should be at least 3/4 sachet in your hair and 1/2 sachet up the walls!!

On the dog, the carpet, the missus and the bed sheets

and on the bum of yr pants,,,,,,,

Mmmm I think that's more info than I need....................

YMJ wrote:In the new CV joint kit, you get the joint, a boot, a couple of boot clips
(that are pretty near impossible to fit right,
so I use two potato sack wires and a "pull-twister" thingy)

I'm glad I'm not the only one who has problems with these clips...
I find that the "sticky-out" bit where you pinch it together always fouls up
on the hub assembly, and pulls the clip off on the first hand-revolution...

Tapping the thing down a bit then causes it to spring apart, get removed,
then chucked in my scrap metal bin.

I then use two turns of green gardening wire on each end which I twist
with two pairs of pliers, then orientate the snipped off bit so that it will
be correct for the wheel rotation. This concept has never failed...

What are we doing wrong?


Ian

ianh1968 wrote:

YMJ wrote:In the new CV joint kit, you get the joint, a boot, a couple of boot clips
(that are pretty near impossible to fit right,
so I use two potato sack wires and a "pull-twister" thingy)

I'm glad I'm not the only one who has problems with these clips...
I find that the "sticky-out" bit where you pinch it together always fouls up
on the hub assembly, and pulls the clip off on the first hand-revolution...

Tapping the thing down a bit then causes it to spring apart, get removed,
then chucked in my scrap metal bin.

I then use two turns of green gardening wire on each end which I twist
with two pairs of pliers, then orientate the snipped off bit so that it will
be correct for the wheel rotation. This concept has never failed...

What are we doing wrong?


Ian

There has been one design of supplied clip I've had any 'success' with, it has perforations in it, like a louvre. I can't recall off hand which boots they came with. I have to say though, I've never tried any of the special tools that are about for fitting the clips, but that seems a bit silly / extreme to me.

I did for a while use the stainless steel cable ties, but getting them tight enough is a bit of a chore and runs the risk (with my butter fingers) of holing the boot.

And why do the supply the nylon ties with less expensive boots? So it gets knocked off on it's first turn, taking the boot with it, so it ruins the joint to prove that a less expensive boot is in fact a dear way to go? It's been long established these are not only wrong for the job, but they don't work. They should supply the boots without ties rather than the wrong one.

But for 99.9999999% of the time, I use tie wire. 100% reliable, easy to fit. It doesn't look as nice as a shiny strap / tie but they work.

Spider wrote:

ianh1968 wrote:

YMJ wrote:In the new CV joint kit, you get the joint, a boot, a couple of boot clips
(that are pretty near impossible to fit right,
so I use two potato sack wires and a "pull-twister" thingy)

I'm glad I'm not the only one who has problems with these clips...
I find that the "sticky-out" bit where you pinch it together always fouls up
on the hub assembly, and pulls the clip off on the first hand-revolution...

Tapping the thing down a bit then causes it to spring apart, get removed,
then chucked in my scrap metal bin.

I then use two turns of green gardening wire on each end which I twist
with two pairs of pliers, then orientate the snipped off bit so that it will
be correct for the wheel rotation. This concept has never failed...

What are we doing wrong?


Ian

There has been one design of supplied clip I've had any 'success' with, it has perforations in it, like a louvre. I can't recall off hand which boots they came with. I have to say though, I've never tried any of the special tools that are about for fitting the clips, but that seems a bit silly / extreme to me.

I did for a while use the stainless steel cable ties, but getting them tight enough is a bit of a chore and runs the risk (with my butter fingers) of holing the boot.

And why do the supply the nylon ties with less expensive boots? So it gets knocked off on it's first turn, taking the boot with it, so it ruins the joint to prove that a less expensive boot is in fact a dear way to go? It's been long established these are not only wrong for the job, but they don't work. They should supply the boots without ties rather than the wrong one.
But for 99.9999999% of the time, I use tie wire. 100% reliable, easy to fit. It doesn't look as nice as a shiny strap / tie but they work.

Spider you can buy stainless steel tie wire ,Its used in the construction industry for tying re-bar together ,very malleable.

goff wrote: Spider you can buy stainless steel tie wire ,Its used in the construction industry for tying re-bar together ,very malleable.

Thanks Goff. I think I have seen it about, I'll have a closer look for it.

The Tie Wire I have been using is actually Iron (not steel), it can be really twisted and then some before it breaks, not like steel or galvanised wire. I think the concreter's use it when tying reo together. Does the job, but doesn't look at all pretty.

I'll give the Stainless a go.

Cheers

Spider wrote:

goff wrote: Spider you can buy stainless steel tie wire ,Its used in the construction industry for tying re-bar together ,very malleable.

Thanks Goff. I think I have seen it about, I'll have a closer look for it.

The Tie Wire I have been using is actually Iron (not steel), it can be really twisted and then some before it breaks, not like steel or galvanised wire. I think the concreter's use it when tying reo together. Does the job, but doesn't look at all pretty.

I'll give the Stainless a go.

Cheers

Spider
That is the same stuff except stainless , Stainless used on more critical situations , When the steel fixes are tying re-bar obvious bits of wire are sticking out , After pouring the concrete and small bits are showing through the concrete it starts to rust and its a leak into the concrete structure, Typical situation is old concrete structures where the face of the concrete is falling of and revealing the re-bar ,Stainless used mainly on Motorway ,Railway structures ect.
You can guess i worked in the Construction.

goff wrote: Spider
That is the same stuff except stainless , Stainless used on more critical situations , When the steel fixes are tying re-bar obvious bits of wire are sticking out , After pouring the concrete and small bits are showing through the concrete it starts to rust and its a leak into the concrete structure, Typical situation is old concrete structures where the face of the concrete is falling of and revealing the re-bar ,Stainless used mainly on Motorway ,Railway structures ect.
You can guess i worked in the Construction.

Well, I'll be a ding-dong-dang - never before did I see. Most stainless steels won't do the twist too well, but I can now see this is the duck's guts.

Makes perfect sense in regards to concreting, helps with the dreaded concrete cancer and general sealing of it.

I think I know where I can get it.

Cheers again mate

Sorry to keep harping on about bloody CV joints but I have done the hysteric and have now started on the Se7en.......

With the engine out with the wheels on the ground and grabbing the inboard H/S joint.....how much rotary play should I have in the CV joint? (The inboard splines are tip-top, by-the-way)

There's always some, hard to quantify, but as a rough guide about 2 - 3 degrees of movement would be normal and OK. It's one of those 'feel' things.

Ideally you'd want to remove it and feel it though it full range of normal in service movement to make a better call. 999 times out of 1000, as long as the boots remain in good order, the joints last a very very long time.