Timing Chain
Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 6:57 pm
Is it possible to replace the timing chain without removing the engine, just the radiator ?. Mk1 850.
Yes
It's a bit fiddly, but no worse than many of the jobs on a mini!
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Timing Chain
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Re: Timing Chain
Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 8:28 pm
Re: Timing Chain
Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 8:43 pm
And probably far easier than any of the engine jobs on a BMW Minirich@minispares.com wrote:Yes
It's a bit fiddly, but no worse than many of the jobs on a mini!
I'd consider a change to a duplex timing chain set up, which will pretty much prevent any repeat 'tinkling' of a new single chain in a few thousand miles.
Re: Timing Chain
Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 9:31 pm
Excellent, thanks. I have no skin left on my knuckles anyway so nothing to lose !
Re: Timing Chain
Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 4:19 am
unless you physically dont have the means the whole job is a bit easier and tidier if you pull it out. You can do a few other jobs at the same time....like drive seals, speedo seal, tighten the knuckles, grease the gearchange bush etc.111Robin wrote:Is it possible to replace the timing chain without removing the engine, just the radiator ?. Mk1 850.
Having said that any mini repairer would do it in car.
Re: Timing Chain
Posted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 10:35 pm
Regardless of whether the engine is in or out, always be careful not to
turn either the crank or the cam whilst the sprockets are off.
It is VERY easy to re-assemble the whole thing one tooth wrong and it
will still look perfectly OK. Performance will suffer as one tooth is, if I
remember correctly, 9 degrees and anything over half of that will make
a noticeable difference. (360 degrees divided by 40 teeth).
It would certainly be worth checking the whole thing out with a dial gauge
afterwards. It might not be hyper-accurate, but certainly an error of
9 degrees ought to show up quite easily...
I managed to assemble a duplex setup one tooth wrong before now, and
it was only because I checked things out with a dial gauge that I found
this out. Better to rectify this whilst it's still in bits...
Also: If changing to a duplex, the front plate 1/4" UNF retaining screws
will need changing to countersunk versions to clear the wider sprocket.
... And you can also put the later type tensioner assembly on a duplex
setup, but a tensioner-type front plate, cover and appropriate gaskets
will be needed. This is what my MG1330 Mini-Marcos engine has...
Ian
turn either the crank or the cam whilst the sprockets are off.
It is VERY easy to re-assemble the whole thing one tooth wrong and it
will still look perfectly OK. Performance will suffer as one tooth is, if I
remember correctly, 9 degrees and anything over half of that will make
a noticeable difference. (360 degrees divided by 40 teeth).
It would certainly be worth checking the whole thing out with a dial gauge
afterwards. It might not be hyper-accurate, but certainly an error of
9 degrees ought to show up quite easily...
I managed to assemble a duplex setup one tooth wrong before now, and
it was only because I checked things out with a dial gauge that I found
this out. Better to rectify this whilst it's still in bits...
Also: If changing to a duplex, the front plate 1/4" UNF retaining screws
will need changing to countersunk versions to clear the wider sprocket.
... And you can also put the later type tensioner assembly on a duplex
setup, but a tensioner-type front plate, cover and appropriate gaskets
will be needed. This is what my MG1330 Mini-Marcos engine has...
Ian