MkI Engine Removal

[Spitz]

I'll soon be removing an engine from a MKI to place in another MKI. My first time removing a MkI unit

First: Does the rad have to come out before engine removal

Second: Does the remote shifter need to be released from the gearbox and the floor ( removed completely )? Both cars have remote shift....not magic wand

Third: Remove U bolts from the joints. Can the inners stay in the diff, or do I need to dump the oil and pull them out?

Thanks

[Dr.Mabo]

First: Does the rad have to come out before engine removal

Radiator can stay

Second: Does the remote shifter need to be released from the gearbox and the floor ( removed completely )? Both cars have remote shift....not magic wand

Shifter needs to be disconnected below the diff.

Third: Remove U bolts from the joints. Can the inners stay in the diff, or do I need to dump the oil and pull them out?

Remove all the U bolts. This gives you enough space to move the engine and the drive shafts. The inners can stay in the diff. No need to drain the oil.

But -- you have to remove the oil filter. To get a remote engine out, it needs to be tilted backwards. Then the oil filter housing will stick out to the front and won't clear the panel for the bonnet lock.

So long
the Doc

[Spitz]

Thank you.....so not really much diff from a later engine. The rad is just so close to that shroud....was worried about that

[rich@minispares.com]

I would take the rad out, it just makes it so much easier if your a novice.

[Lakeland997]

This type of lifting bracket or similar makes a huge difference to the job.
It sets the engine at just the right angle for the diff housing to clear the back of the subframe.
They're a copy of the original (Sykes Pickavant?) BMC special workshop tool.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-MINI- ... 27eba69f39

[Spitz]

I can usually get the angle just right using one of the clutch slave bolts and an altenator mount....works for a rod change, but may need more of an angle for remote shift

[360gts]

As Rich said..."take out the rad"
It will save the fins on the rad and will give you more 'wiggle' room.
Removing the rad is a bit of a witchy job but worth it. Remove the top bracket...remove the top shroud screws they are the small ones on each side.
Now you can actually remove the yellow fan.
Next part is tricky...undo the lower rad hose clamp and pill the hose off.
The lower shroud can now be removed from the lower bracket....good luck!

[2ramp3]

Leave the radiator in it,lll take longer to take it out than the unit complete

[Andrew1967]

I'm with Rich and Dermott, take the radiator out.

However, you can leave the bottom hose on the rad. Take it off the water pump and take the heater hose off the rad hose. Then you can take the bottom hose out still attached to the rad.

Its a fiddle to get at the fan bolts, but is possible. Take the fan off and the two bolts that attach the rad bracket to the engine mounting bracket. The rad should then just squeeze past everything.

With the rad out of the way its something less to have to worry about when lifting the unit out.

Pretty sure the above is correct but long time since I took an engine out of of a Mk1/2.

The de-shrouded, later cars are so much easier to get the rad in and out of and you can get the engine out easily with it still in place.