Ignition advice
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- 1275 Cooper S
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Ignition advice
Guys I'm wondering what you all use on the HT side of your ignition. I already have an Aldon and a proper NOS Lucas rotor arm, but what would be decent reliable leads to use, and should I have ordinary plugs, v groove, platinum plugs or whatever?
For competition use btw.
For competition use btw.
- pad4
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Ignition advice
I run aldon electronic ignition now on both my 5 port and 8 port just cause they both seem to fire up better plus i run whatsamagig coils from the US
i use bumble bee copper leads which i make up my self cause i went mad and bought all the lead making tools BUT these leads cause issues when you try to use them with inductive timing lights or on rolling roads or multi meters as they emit some evil electrickery interferance and im not sure if they have enough resistance in them really , they work at 8k rpm so thats ok with me
Carbon core leads are good like magnecor etc but bloody expensive and you dont need the fat ones
use a good competition condensor from dizzy doctor or swifty and proper S points again from martin at dizzy doctor ( i might have some for you )
And try and get a
nos dizzy cap
for plugs - just standard NGK whatevers - no need for fancy 3 point platinum vagazzle's
pad
i use bumble bee copper leads which i make up my self cause i went mad and bought all the lead making tools BUT these leads cause issues when you try to use them with inductive timing lights or on rolling roads or multi meters as they emit some evil electrickery interferance and im not sure if they have enough resistance in them really , they work at 8k rpm so thats ok with me
Carbon core leads are good like magnecor etc but bloody expensive and you dont need the fat ones
use a good competition condensor from dizzy doctor or swifty and proper S points again from martin at dizzy doctor ( i might have some for you )
And try and get a
nos dizzy cap
for plugs - just standard NGK whatevers - no need for fancy 3 point platinum vagazzle's
pad
- dklawson
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Ignition advice
Like pad4, I use NGK plugs. I also make my own wires but I use the contents of a V8 engine kit from U.S. manufacturer Accel. These wires are spirally wound metal core with silicone jackets. The spirally wound metal core is supposed to help suppress electronic noise. I don't have a radio so I don't know how these plug wires affect cars around me. You said the inquiry was for a track car so I assume noise wouldn't be a concern of yours.
Doug L.
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- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Ignition advice
Yeah I was just wondering about the leads but I'm certain ignitions have to be suppressed, in regards to radio comms at events. Its just there are different sorts of leads available from Minispares and other people but what to do?
- pad4
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Re: Ignition advice
my copper cores have no surpression what so ever and they affect nothing apart from radio luxembourg
pad
pad
- Frogeye61
- 998 Cooper
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Re: Ignition advice
Solid core wires are fine. If you want resistance, use resistor spark plugs, or maybe some resistor plug connectors
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- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Ignition advice
I am using a 123ignition/Tune (or what ever its called now) in both of my cars.
Coils are 3 Ohm Pertronix Flame Thrower Chrome ones.
I use Champion plugs and have never had any problems. N6Y[C/CC] for the
iron heads and RA6HC (12mm) for the ally heads. These equate to
approximately an '8' heat rating in NGK.
These are the leads that I have used for a number of years:-
http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... 0to%20shop
I always end up shortening the "King" lead as these tend to be too long and
cause shorting when it's raining and the lead is touching the bonnet shut rail...
Has anybody used "Nology Hotwires"?
These were detailed in the Vizard book and have an outer braid that is
connected to earth... It was all about providing some kind of capacitance
in the system.
I'd be very interested to hear from anyone that has had experience of these.
Ian
Coils are 3 Ohm Pertronix Flame Thrower Chrome ones.
I use Champion plugs and have never had any problems. N6Y[C/CC] for the
iron heads and RA6HC (12mm) for the ally heads. These equate to
approximately an '8' heat rating in NGK.
These are the leads that I have used for a number of years:-
http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... 0to%20shop
I always end up shortening the "King" lead as these tend to be too long and
cause shorting when it's raining and the lead is touching the bonnet shut rail...
Has anybody used "Nology Hotwires"?
These were detailed in the Vizard book and have an outer braid that is
connected to earth... It was all about providing some kind of capacitance
in the system.
I'd be very interested to hear from anyone that has had experience of these.
Ian
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- 998 Cooper
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Re: Ignition advice
My preferred set-up is copper cored ignition leads, with NGK waterproof motorbike plug caps with suppression resistor. And NGK BP7ES plugs.
- Spider
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Re: Ignition advice
I recently tested a few sets of leads, from el-cheapo to mid-range in terms of cost.
I found on most of the cheaper sets, it was the boots that let them down.
In regards to caps (for 45D4 series), I actually found that those in the Green Lucas box were the best of the new ones out there (I was quite surprised), but even these were not what I'd call brilliant. I think it was the Blue Buttons that also tested up the best, but I didn't have any of the Red (Dr. Distributor) ones to try.
I would actually like to go to a Coil - on - Plug arrangement.
I found on most of the cheaper sets, it was the boots that let them down.
In regards to caps (for 45D4 series), I actually found that those in the Green Lucas box were the best of the new ones out there (I was quite surprised), but even these were not what I'd call brilliant. I think it was the Blue Buttons that also tested up the best, but I didn't have any of the Red (Dr. Distributor) ones to try.
I would actually like to go to a Coil - on - Plug arrangement.
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- 1275 Cooper S
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- dklawson
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Re: Ignition advice
No. "R" means resistor type/suppressed (BP6ES vs BPR6ES). ES deals with the length of the threads and size of the electrode.wantafaster1 wrote:So, the ES on the NGKs means suppressed?
http://ngk-sparkplugs.com/bp6es-p-2075.html
Doug L.
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- 1275 Cooper S
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- Spider
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Re: Ignition advice
Yeap.wantafaster1 wrote:So, as long as either the plug or lead is suppressed it works ok?
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- 1275 Cooper S
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- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Ignition advice
Probably means El Cheapo metal used for the arm????? The rotor is designed to arc..... the tip does not actually touch the cap electrodes; the spark jumps the gap as the rotor arm tip whizzes by...
Cheers, Ian
Cheers, Ian
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- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Ignition advice
Thanks Ian, it's a nos real Lucas arm, cap is new Minispares and has no signs of any blackness like the rotor arm. Earth inside the dizzy good, dizzy to block and block to car all good.
Wondering if I'm missing something stupid.
Wondering if I'm missing something stupid.
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- 850 Super
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- dklawson
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Re: Ignition advice
You last statement sounds like you are trying to address a specific problem. I don't remember you mentioning a problem in earlier posts. Is there a particular issue you are dealing with?wantafaster1 wrote:Wondering if I'm missing something stupid.
Doug L.
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- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Ignition advice
Hi Doug.
What really annoys me is that I cannot drive on a steady throttle under 3000 revs, at a very light loading. I can let the car slow in gear right down to 2000 and make it pull. I can actually bury the pedal to the floor at 2500 no problem, and go from there to 8000 in any gear, never a misfire or hesitation. Starts perfectly hot or cold. I have tried a couple of coils, all the ht leads in the garage, more new ones on order. Have put on an old Lucas coil instead of the new and no difference.
All earths good. I just found a ducellier 12v coil with half the resistance of the other ones and I'll get it fitted tomorrow. Tried to measure the leads resistance and have to use different scales on the meter to get readings, but regardless it runs the same on all of them. It would idle all day if I wanted.
What I do get is the odd flicker of the rev counter but it doesn't coincide with the cars behaviour, but I'm taking it as a symptom of something wrong.
What really annoys me is that I cannot drive on a steady throttle under 3000 revs, at a very light loading. I can let the car slow in gear right down to 2000 and make it pull. I can actually bury the pedal to the floor at 2500 no problem, and go from there to 8000 in any gear, never a misfire or hesitation. Starts perfectly hot or cold. I have tried a couple of coils, all the ht leads in the garage, more new ones on order. Have put on an old Lucas coil instead of the new and no difference.
All earths good. I just found a ducellier 12v coil with half the resistance of the other ones and I'll get it fitted tomorrow. Tried to measure the leads resistance and have to use different scales on the meter to get readings, but regardless it runs the same on all of them. It would idle all day if I wanted.
What I do get is the odd flicker of the rev counter but it doesn't coincide with the cars behaviour, but I'm taking it as a symptom of something wrong.
- dklawson
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Re: Ignition advice
So cruising at part throttle below 3k RPM is not possible? What happens? Does the car surge, lose power, or something else?
Doug L.