mk1-forum.net

Hi to all,
I need help on tuning my cooper 997 engine, many people tell these engine is not very good.

i never try these engine so i don't have any opinion of it.

its worth spend money on these engine or keep it standard and buy a new one for "play" on my morris cooper 1962?

What can i do to make some improvements on these engine?

Thanks to all
jorge

I've no experience of the 997 but if it's original to your car then it's probably worth holding on to. It is after all the original Cooper engine, the one that started it all.

I'd quite like one for my Mk1 actually..

gs.davies wrote:I've no experience of the 997 but if it's original to your car then it's probably worth holding on to. It is after all the original Cooper engine, the one that started it all.

I'd quite like one for my Mk1 actually..

I agree the 997 cc engines are getting harder to find. If Jorge wanted to keep his Cooper 997 looking original with a bit more power, a very good option is to install an early thin flange block 1098 engine which apart from the stroke looks identical to the 997 block. The early MG 1100 engine has all that is needed provided you can find one as they too are getting thin on the ground.

Alan

Tuning a 997 will cost the same as tuning a 1275 but you will never get as much HP as a 1275. Spend your money on a 1275.

I agree with Supersonic, The 997 is a very rare little engine now, better to save that one & build an 1100 up as a stand in. There is a lot of talk on tuning the 1100 if you do a search. These can be made to go very well.

If you are sure you want to tune the 997, stick to balancing the internals, modifying the 202 cylinder head & the fitting of a decent inlet & exhaust manifold & system. of all the Mini engines it is the one that reacts worst to normal tuning procedures & with its long stroke, small bore & fragile crank you are likely to damage it by trying to tune it too hard.

Here's where I'm going with mine:
Refurbished block bored to suit 1100 pistons and centre main strap Crank wedged, balanced and nitro carburised Oil feed blocked Saenz billet rods are 250g (each) lighter than the standard ones and should reduce crank stress Russell Engineering pistons

Assembled 12G295 modified head (I've kept the original one as standard)

Lakeland997 wrote:Assembled

IMG_1980.jpg

12G295 modified head (I've kept the original one as standard)

IMG_1153.jpg

Lakeland, that will be a nice engine keep us posted. I have a 65 BHP 1098 and with a 4.1 final drive it pulls in top gear at 30 MPH.

Alan

That looks like a lovely engine Lakeland!

Supersonic wrote:

Lakeland997 wrote:Assembled

IMG_1980.jpg

12G295 modified head (I've kept the original one as standard)

IMG_1153.jpg

Lakeland, that will be a nice engine keep us posted. I have a 65 BHP 1098 and with a 4.1 final drive it pulls in top gear at 30 MPH.

Alan

Loving the sound of the 1098 - what's the spec? I'm building one up for mine at the moment

Alan,

A 4.1 FINAL DRIVE!

I'm not surprised that it pulls at 30 in top. Isn't 4.1 a bit high?

M

GS & Mark,

My engine is nothing special, standard engine +20 (about 1,115 cc) with a Swiftune 12G295 big valve cylinder and SW5-07 camshaft, Swiftune flywheel assembly, LCB exhaust and twin 1 ½ carbs. It is very low geared with a 4.1 final drive. I think it is smoother than any of my three 1293 cc engines and lovely to drive. It is only used in a wee road car and never gets hammered

I think the 4.1 suits the small engine well, my 1293 cars are on 3.65 & 3.44 final drives.

Alan