mk1-forum.net

I've just taken possesion of a MkI with a later 998 remote shift engine fitted.
After warm up, it's pressure is low. I have replaced the scored pressure relief valve.

I've noticed the hard line from the filter canister, up to the block has been replaced with a rubber hose .
I'm not sure if the rubber is replacing the hole line or just a break in the line.....but it does go the full length.

I'm hoping, that when it warms up that there is a possibility that this line swells....and drops my pressure. There is no leaking oil, and level is good.

Is this a possibility?

To save another post....does someone have the NAPA or WIX number for the oil filter ( cannister type, not spin on )

Unless there is oil streaming out from under the rubber hosing, then I can't see that being the cause of low oil pressure sorry to say.

I was thinking that...just grasping at straws.
I had thought that if the ID of the rubber was larger than original pipe...it would "slow" the pressure.

On start up...pressure is very high

Spitz wrote:After warm up, it's pressure is low. I have replaced the scored pressure relief valve.

How warm is "warm"? ... And how low is "low"?

1) Try putting some packing behind the spring
2) The oil pump might be "worn to excess"
3) The mains and big-ends might be worn

I had one engine that went to 75PSI from cold startup.
... and when warm, idling with the gauge showing ZERO PSI


Ian

also worth noting how accurate is you oil pressure gauge?

if it was me i would get a modern aftermarket gauge, of known quality (IE VDO)
check the pressure if it was still low.
I would pull the engine NOW and fit a new oil pump and bearings, before any more damage occurs. if your lucky that is all you will need to do to get a reliable with the minimum of work.
i have had to do this in the past, it was less that an afternoons work and that engine is still alive now many years later.

Will check with another gauge.

Low, as in about 30-40lb at shift rpm

Surely if you have an engine apart and checking bearings etc. is the time to turn the crank, etc....or am I out to lunch on this?

I do have another parked car with a strong engine available for a swap out.

I must admit...I have not dumped the oil or filter....and I do not know what oil the PO has put in it.

if its got the early filter, its always worth taking the canister off and checking that the disc and spring have been put back in the correct order with the filter.

ive had cars before where the bits where missing and the filter was just rattling around in the canister - I think its because the disc can stick to the old filter, so people drop the filter into the dirty old oil and don't spot the disc when they reassemble it all.

I meant to ask.
What is the NAPA or WIX equiv. filter number.

I know I may well be beating a dead horse, but would like to try all possibilities before pulling it.

Will swap in a hard line, new filter, new 20/50, check another gauge. I've already replaced relief spring and plunger for the ball type.

Spitz wrote: I've already replaced relief spring and plunger for the ball type.

that's a mistake, the plungers are far better

the balls cause loads of problems on old seats as they cannot always seat fully on them

Understood Rich.

This is what I was sent though some time ago ( although the proper plunger was pictured ).
Thought it beeter to fit this than the scored valve that was in there.

Spitz wrote:I meant to ask.
What is the NAPA or WIX equiv. filter number.

I use a WIX 51342 on my car (pre A+ 998 w/ spin-on filter). Works a treat.
That filter is slightly longer than the standard Unipart item so one gets a bit of extra filtering media.

FYI

1998 VW polo 1.6 filter fits perfectly and had a built in "bolt-head" so you can remove the filter with a 30mm socket and extension
This is the only filter i fit to my mini nowadays

Filter ordered.

It's not the spin on type

rich@minispares.com wrote: that's a mistake, the plungers are far better
the balls cause loads of problems on old seats as they cannot always seat fully on them

I've never had a problem with my balls... (In 'A' Series engines)

However... When I fitted a "ball-type-super-delux-uprated-better" fuel float bowl
needle valve replacement a while back, this exhibited the exact same symptoms
of "they cannot always seat fully on them".

My drive is on a slope and I'd filled up the tank the night before. Reversed the
car out onto the road the next morning and noticed a massive "slick". On opening
the bonnet, I found "thin oil" firing out of the transmission breather...

About a gallon of petrol had found its way to the sump - Not good!

This component came from a major supplier of Mini parts in England and I am
wondering if the design of this product has been changed as it is clearly flawed.

I now have a solenoid fitted in the fuel line which will stop this ever happening
again, although I have reverted to the traditional/uprated type now.

Any comments, Rich?

Back to the plot...
I had an 1986 "Auto" that was very low mileage and gave only 40PSI when warm.
On start -up it went to 60PSI, then gradually dropped as the temperature increased.

Ian