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Hello guys,

I will remove my rally engine to change the final drive ratio,

It's the first time I will do it by myself,

What is the best way to lift it?

What about this tool?



Does someone have a pic of how it's fixed,if i remove the head stud nut i will have to change my head gaket so it's may not be the good solution?

Thank you

Charles

Hi
That will do the job for you!! Gasket is not a problem you only loosen two nuts at the front, and then tighten them on to the lifter again.

Those lifting brackets are really handy bits of kit. The top chain location is normally used on engines with rod change gearboxes and can be lifted straight out. The lower front location tilts the engine backwards to aid in the removal of earlier remote or magic wand boxes.

Hello Ronnie,

Thank you for your quick answer, as for me when you loose only one nut you have to change the gasket..

Or this tool may be for engine with longer stud and you can bolt it on the nut with anothe one?

does anyone have a picture of the right way to remove an engine?

There is also bracket sold from minispares

That lifting tool is the best around.

There's honestly no need to worry about the head gasket. We've lifted loads of engines out with one of them and have never had to change the gasket.

As Tupers said, use the lower position for a magic wand or remote set up in order to tilt the power unit so the extension housing clears the subframe easily.

Hello guys!

Thank you for your help!

I'm really anxious about the head gasket..

What about minispares bracket?? is there any risk for the rocker studs? Is there any chance to bend it or to break it?

It many years ago, but I lifted Mini, 1100, 1300, and Allegro engines, probably about 15 times in all, using the cylinder head studs/nuts. No problem with gaskets. I would not use the rocker studs/ nuts alone for lifting.

I use one of the MiniSpares brackets on the centre front head stud. Gives the right angle of dangle and is quick and easy.

I have the sykes pic cradle one as shown in 1st postand have removed prob a dozen engines
never had gasket problems either

I have never used one of them Sykes lifters however, them seem well regarded.

I've only fitted a single chain to the front centre head stud, though in later years, I now have a bracket that I screw on with an up-side-down head nut in the same place. I find it the perfect angle for an engine fitted a Rod Shift Box and have no issues with a Remote style box either, but one does need a little more care.





I know you can only work with what you have, however I have found them hydraulic engine cranes that seem popular these days a pain in the bum as they don't lift straight, but through an arc, the job is easier I find if the lift is vertical.

Hello Guys!

Thank you for all your answers!

I think I will proceed with webbing straps! For a newbee in engine lifting it's the best way..

Lot of the early A series had these (smaller) brackets attached at the factory and left on. Some of the early minis came with them probably handy for weekly oil seal, clutch change or gearbox renewal. Thrown out dozens in my time still find then around in odd boxes.
Handy being on a farm as used loader to take engines out, very precise accurate and when engine free could just take it anywhere. Whatever method you use use as long a chain as possible as this makes it easier to move the unit about during extraction/fitting.

ive seen a photo of a 'works' big healey (or it might have been a tr2 or something) and it had a pair of those small engine lifter brackets bolted to the bumper mounts to use as spot lamp brackets - bit of neat 'upcycling' by the works!