I have bought the POR-15 tank seal kit, i have degreased and used tank prepped, rinsed out and dried. now i am ready to pour in the seal.
but i have a little problem, from looking in my tank i can see a filter on the end of the outlet pipe.
if i pour in the seal, it will just block it up,
whats best way to remove it. as there does not look like a easy way ? as there is no room to just push it down off the pipe?
what have other people done to get around the problem?
Hi Dean,
there is no way to remove it. The metal pipe is stiff and fixed with the internal bracket. No way to bend it to the side.
I protected my tank with a similar set many years ago. There is just a tiny little gap between filter and tank. Before I used the final coating I fiddled a little plastic bag over the filter and closed it with some lock wire. Than I put the final coating into the tank. I turned the tank in all directions to be sure the coating covers all corners of the tank. As long as the coating was stil wet I removed the plastic bag, so the coating can go under the filter without blocking it. Job done.
Of course that was quite of a job but the only way to do it. Bottle ship builder skills are highly recomended
Blocking the filter put me off of using por - tank seal . The best way to get your tank like brand new inside is to strap it to a cement mixer and add a couple of handfuls of gravel , pee shingle from the drive . Half an hour and it's mint inside. Then wash it out with kerosene ..... Ken
1963 austin Cooper s mk1 1071
1966 Austin Cooper s mk1 1275
1968 Austin Cooper mk2 998
1962 Morris mini super 850
Porsche 997 turbo S
Ford transit van 280s.
The nails, chain, gravel tumbling method will work to clean the inside of the tank but it won't address pin hole leaks... which is what the POR and other liner kits are really aimed at.
As Rich said, you CAN get the filter off by using a long drift through the filler neck and careful hammer blows. Having done that myself, I will advise you against it. Instead, either mask it with a bag as Dr.Mabo suggested. Or... you can blow compressed air back into the tank at very low pressure to keep the filter open while the POR cures. Don't remove it if you don't have to... reasons to follow.
The LH tank of my car is currently sitting on the garage floor following the failure of a POR coating applied 8 years ago. It looked great when new but 3 months ago the car became starved for fuel and I limped home. I found the POR liner had started to sluff off and pieces of it were plugging the tank pickup tube. If I had left the old filter in the tank it would have prevented big pieces of POR from plugging things up.
I have an additional suggestion. If you continue with lining the tank, the coating will remain fluid for some time. Do not be tempted to leave the tank standing "upright" in its normal orientation as the liner cures. Standing it upright will result in a very thick layer on the bottom of the tank and in the case of POR... that will result in pinholes in the coating. Instead, turn the tank upside down so the thicker coating builds up at the top of the tank where it is less likely to be impacted by any water or condensation.
i have managed to do it, by pouring in a little at a time and moving it about so there was just a small run when it went past the filter, just add a little at a time till the whole tank was well covered, the filter has a odd tiny drip , but nothing that will stop the fuel,
i got rid of as much excess as possible , so now its just a case of keep spinning it over to another side every 15 minutes.
its going to be at least 2 months till it has fuel inside , so should be will set.
POR sets by exposure to moist air, not traditional solvent evaporation, or 2-part curing. Leaving the tank sitting with the sending unit hole and filler neck open should allow enough moist air in to cure the liner after a few days.
On my LH tank I am trying Red-Kote tank lining this time. It comes highly recommended by a friend and hopefully it will last at least as long as the POR did. My reason for using the Red-Kote this time is that it is purely solvent based and can be removed with MEK if I ever have to remove the liner. It was awful getting the POR out of this tank.
The POR-15 Petrol Tank Sealer is the finest tank sealer you will ever use and the only tank sealer you will recommend. The tough flexible coating chemically bonds to the inside of your tank forming an incredibly strong permanent seal.
POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer is totally resistant to all fuels, alcohols and petrol additives. It seals leaking seams, cracks and pinholes stopping all further corrosion dead in its tracks. A leaking fuel tank can be deadly; welding a tank is suicidal.
Dean wrote: ...POR15 will restore your tank as good as new."
For about 8 years in my experience. It is nice looking, leaving a metallic looking liner in the tank. I have used POR, Kreem, and now Red-Kote. All the kits require similar amounts of prep work. Kreem requires prep steps including MEK which I don't like using. A fourth kit marketed by Caswell is based on an epoxy system instead of the "plastic rubber" of POR, Kreem, and Red-Kote. All claim to be good for use with Ethanol rich fuels. Of the four materials, Red-Kote provided the most information about what to expect with exposure to high levels of Ethanol.
I found POR to be the easiest to apply but it failed for me while a tank done a year earlier with Kreem has not. Red-Kote came highly recommended by a friend who has used it for more than a decade without failure. I chose not to use the Caswell epoxy as I was afraid I would not be able to salvage the tank if I experienced a problem with the epoxy in a few years.
I mentioned that I clean the inside of the tank with the cement mixer method and gravel . Once I've done that I media blast the outside to bare metal . Then I place a 100 watt lightbulb in the tank and turn the garage lights off so it's pitch black . Any pin holes will show the light through . As a matter of course I use plastic padding petrol leak filler around the welded joins of the tank , and any pin holes . After that 2 pack primer and topcoat . Well that's my method , it works for me and I've never had one leak ..... Ken
1963 austin Cooper s mk1 1071
1966 Austin Cooper s mk1 1275
1968 Austin Cooper mk2 998
1962 Morris mini super 850
Porsche 997 turbo S
Ford transit van 280s.
Dean wrote:wish i asked more about this before i started, as it sounds like i be hunting for a spare tank in a year or two.
Please don't take my comments as doom and gloom. As mentioned by Swifty and me, preparation is key to success. The tank I lined with Kreem is coming up on 10 years of service and the POR tank reached 8. I am hoping the Red-Kote tank will last even longer. If you do a good job preparing the inside of your car's tank it is reasonable for you to expect a decade of service without issue. That's not bad. While you might want to squirrel away a spare tank for future use, you hopefully won't need it for a long, long time. With the cost of new and good-used tanks, a competent DIY person can keep an old tank going for a long time and save a lot of money by lining a pin-holed tank at home.
hi sir
i used por15 tank repair kit too. in my technique, i left the tank with marine clean one night and drained out to the bucket with filter; then, i cleaned the tank and used another one marine clean with a full of water inside the tank and a full water in the bucket, so, i could wash in and outside in the same time. i left it another night. after that, i used metal prep to convert rust. i used heat gun to keep it dry; however, the tank is very difficult to dry. i had to heat from seam (outside) to inside until it dry.
i did worry about filter as well but when i put the tank seal, i tried to roll slowly and away from filter. after i finished, i checked and it was ok. no seal blocked to the filter.
Dean wrote:"Seals Tanks against fuels containing ETHANOL
The POR-15 Petrol Tank Sealer is the finest tank sealer you will ever use and the only tank sealer you will recommend. The tough flexible coating chemically bonds to the inside of your tank forming an incredibly strong permanent seal.
POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer is totally resistant to all fuels, alcohols and petrol additives. It seals leaking seams, cracks and pinholes stopping all further corrosion dead in its tracks. A leaking fuel tank can be deadly; welding a tank is suicidal.
POR15 will restore your tank as good as new."
I agree the POR15 (PPC) coatings are great BUT as was hammered in to me when I met the rep. they only work IF the instructions are followed to the letter.
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