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What's everyone doing these days when it comes to the transfer case nuts and bolts, my lock tabs are looking a little worn now, I have heard of people using a combination of nylock nuts and stud lock but would prefer to use the original (and well proven) method if the tabs are available still (couldn't see them on the Minispares website)

I just use the A+ flange headed bolts, much easier!

When the studs are fitted, I use a spring washer and a plain nut.

Spider wrote:When the studs are fitted, I use a spring washer and a plain nut.

Me too.
I loathe lock tabs.

Vegard wrote:

Spider wrote:When the studs are fitted, I use a spring washer and a plain nut.

Me too.
I loathe lock tabs.

The ones around the outside have spring washers and they give no trouble

So we seem to be in agreement that as long as there is some sort of locking device, be it spring washers / nylocks / thread lock or a combination then the original lock tabs aren't needed, I'm trying to put as much care into reassembling the engine onto the gearbox as has been put into machining and building the short motor and head

Spring washers don't work. -The nuts can come loose
Nylock nuts don't work either... -Nuts can come loose, but don't fall off!

Studlock is a "permanent" compound, and you are likely to damage teh threads the next time you remove them. Use "nutlock", which can be removed.

You can use "prevailing torque lock-nuts". -These are the ones with the stainless steel piece instead of nylon. -They work, and can be re-used.

If the nut and plain washer are correctly tensioned (torqued), they won't come loose.

-NOW, having said that (and it has been proved in many control tests of fastener torque experiments -you never see either on an aircraft), I still use spring-washers, and nylock nuts......

-You can also argue that tab washers don't work, as they are too soft, and can "pound-out" (though against aluminium, the aluminium will crush first...)

Clear as mud...?

I should have some lock tabs if you still need some.

In all fairness any fastener can 'undo' itself. It's a matter of using an appropriate fastener for the job and using it in the correct manner.

There are also Conelocs (I think though that's a Trade name, but the suppliers around these parts know what they are), which is sorta similar to a Nyloc, only it's all metal. I use them where something is going to receive continous heavy vibration and possible elevated temps, but for something like a transfer case, they are WAY over the top. Also, they are difficult to 'feel' when they are properly tight against the parts.

So, Q. How does one 'torque up' self locking nuts?

InimiaD wrote:I should have some lock tabs if you still need some.

PM me a price for them if they are New / NOS, I've never had one come undone but I don't want to have any issues once it's back in the car

Pretty sure I have some NOS ones as well but probably not a complete set for the transfer case.