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Have a 62 saloon and can't get the fuel gauge to work all the wirings new and ok and
get 12 volts at sender.I have 2 senders and can get no ohms reading on either,guess
both are u/s unless you know different.Early non resistor type

coop12g295 wrote:Have a 62 saloon and can't get the fuel gauge to work all the wirings new and ok and
get 12 volts at sender.I have 2 senders and can get no ohms reading on either,guess
both are u/s unless you know different.Early non resistor type

Did you try to test it on the gauge directly???..

but, there should be a resistance when you test it with the ohmmeter

René

Thanks Rene had a set up similar to your pic to test,think you have confirmed what I had guessed that senders are duff

coop12g295 wrote:Thanks Rene had a set up similar to your pic to test,think you have confirmed what I had guessed that senders are duff

Youre welcome mate.

It is possible to repair the old sender. You can open it, and fit a new wire
To it.

My guess sould be that the wire are broken in some point inside.

I agree. If you were unable to measure any resistance across the sender's terminals regardless of float arm position, this suggests that the resistance wire has become disconnected from the "hot" (insulated) terminal on the sender's flange. You may be able to repair this when you open the sender up.

When you open the sending unit up you may also find corrosion on the float arm bushing and/or the tabs connecting the sending unit cover to the flange. Make sure all those surfaces are cleaned of rust and deposits and repeat your resistance measurements. Lack of continuity at those points can mimic broken resistance wires.

Though I have not tried this, I have often wondered if the resistance windings taken from the sending unit of an MG-Midget/AH-Sprite from the same period could be used to repair Mini sending units. Someday I may have to try this.

Both tanks have been dry for years so might be corroded then