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now i have oil pressure, next is to get my engine started.

i kind if want to do it before i put in the car, as if there are any problem i can sort them out easier.

but what are the best things to do when it comes to running a freshly built engine,

do's and don't, would be good. and how to's!, hints and tips
people talk about running in cams. but whats the best way of doing that.

i have put a few engine in cars and got them running but never a freshly built engine, so i don't want to do something that will damage it.

i do plan once its up and running to get it to local rolling road, and get it set up for a running in period , then take it back to be set up properly.

dean

I know that people tend to go about this in their own ways and methods.

This is a sheet I used to send out with engines (or a shortened version I'd pass on to customers if we had fitted their reconditioned engine);-

Engine Initial Start & Running In

Oil for Running In Period

Use Penrite Running In Oil. Do not substitute.

Initial Engine Start

1) Be sure you have a GOOD Battery
2) Test the Oil Switch on the engine. Disconnect the Black Wire between the distributor and Coil. Turn the key to RUN, the Oil Light should come ON. Disconnect the wire from the Oil Switch, it should go OFF.

DO NOT PROCEED UNTIL THIS WORKS 100% RELIABLY

3) Fill with Fuel, Water and Oil etc. Do NOT fill with Coolant at this time, only clean tap water.
4) Ensure Brakes etc are working
5) Ensure the outside of the engine is dust free. Remove the spark plugs
6) Crank the engine over until the Oil Light goes OFF. This may take anything from 30 secs to 15 minutes.
7) Leave it sit for a Minute and check that the Oil Light comes back ON. Crank over again and check the Oil Light goes OFF, should only take ~ 5 - 10 seconds.
8) Check for Oil Leaks. Resolve.
9) Fit Spark Plugs and HT Leads, re-connect the wire from the Distributor to the coil.
10) Be sure you have your Licence with you!
11) Start and Drive it.
12) Drive with gentle acceleration until up to temperature.

for the first 20 minutes, keep the RPMs above 2000 RPM, after than initial 20 minutes, then set it to 1100 RPM (run in period for Cam and / or followers).

DO NOT EXCEED THE FOLLOWING SPEEDS;-

1ST 20 KPH
2ND 40 KPH
3RD 60 KPH
4TH 80 KPH

(Basically limiting to 3000 RPM Max - which incidentally is what the factory also recommend - see attached)

13) When up to temp (about 1 - 2 minutes), on a quiet road, drive up to 50 KPH, Then in 4th Gear, accelerate HARD from 50 KPH to 80 KPH.
Do this 3 times NO MORE. Don't let the engine 'Ping'.

14) Return to Base and check over. Resolve any issues and Leave overnight.
15) Re-tension the Cylinder Head (50 ft/lbs or as recommended by the stud supplier) and Re-set the Tappets (0.012")
16) Drive around locally, observing your limited speeds, for around 200 km.
17) If all is OK, continue driving for 500 km in total (1000 km for chrome rings).
18) Change Oil and Filter. Re-tension Cylinder Head and Re-set Tappets.
19) It's now run in.
20) Set idle to 650 RPM, check Ignition Timing and Carb Mixture.
21) Check for leaks, noises etc.

GOLDEN RULES while running in;-

DO NOT accelerate hard - ever
DO NOT Over-rev it (observe above limited speeds) - ever
Don't let it over-heat
Avoid Idling, up to 30 seconds is OK, but don't let it go on any longer. After you've done about 600 km, it will be OK to idle for longer periods, but still try to avoid it.
Avoid sitting on the one speed. It will be OK for a few minutes or so, but keep the revs changing.
Drive 'normally'
Don't ever let the engine 'Ping'

After Running In Period

Re-check Cylinder Head Tension
Re-set Tappets
Change Oil and Filter. Recommended Oil Penrite HPR30.
Drain Cooling System (ensure heater is set to HOT), flush with clean water, drain and then fill with Coolant. Castrol have a good one. Do not use Tecalloy.

That is a great set of instructions! Thanks for posting it!

dklawson wrote:That is a great set of instructions! Thanks for posting it!

Your welome

Just one other thing I would add, which perhaps isn't clear in that list I posted ^ is that I wouldn't recommend letting the engine idle at all intially and get some load on it right away, otherwise there is a risk that the bores may glaze.

Great list, Spider...

I'd only add/clarify one thing and that's No3.

Fill with oil.
Fill the oil filter with oil - Let stand for 5 minutes, then top up and fit.
Fill the oil cooler with oil (If fitted).

In other words, displace as much air from the oil system as possible...

Consider also undoing the "Banjo" and "back-filling" the oil pump
to prime it. This has been discussed a couple of times recently
on this forum.

Ian

thanks very much for your replys.

i am already up to the point of having oil pressure next is to start it.
if i do start it outside the car with the full exhaust on it will only be to bed the cam in for 20 minis, everything else on the list needs the engine in the car.

so i might as well just put it in there, and be done with it.

the car is not ready for the road yet so it might be a few months till i get to drive it , to do the rest of the running in period

few more questions.

i have 2 new aldon dizzys , both for A series engines, 1 is vac, 1 is not vac.
what is best for my engine

1071 +0.040
sw5
1.5 rockers
modded head

i am guessing the vac with my spec, unless i am wrong. what are the advantages and disadvantages,?
also i take it that if i run non vac i just bung up the outlet on the carbs?

thanks again

dean

Hi I'm rebuilding my mk1 S engine and will be fitting rebuilt twin 11/4 s that haven't had the benefit of being balanced / mixture set etc . In other words nothing tested and all new . Bearing in mind that the cam has to be run in and the potential for it running rough because of the lack of carb set up , any suggestions ? As you say best not to let it tick over for fear of bore wash , but also the need to set up the carbs to some degree . A friend of mine has just rebuilt his Sierra cosworth engine and was advised to use cheap oil . He took no notice and used the best synthetic oil and run it in gently . What he's ended up with is a smoker having only just done 1200 miles . ...... Ken

I have that same problem. I have a set of twin 1.1/4 for mine that have been rebuilt. So they are not set. So one of the reasons I was thinking of running the engine out the car. As setting things up is much easier as you can get right around the engine. So once it comes to putting it in the car a lot of the work is done.

It maybe be worth getting a single 1.1/2 or 1.3/4. For the running in time as set up and tuning will be easier and quicker than twins. The. Change it over at a later date.

ianh1968, yes, you are correct, prime the oil pump first. That's omitted from the list ^ as we put 'goop' in the pump (only a little) and that seals well and takes forever to run out if the engine is stored for a while.

In regards to you guys with twins, what I tend to do, at least for a short while is just fit up a single, get a few miles up then swap over to the twins. If you don't have that luxury, then I'd suggest setting the twins up on the bench first as best you can then for the mixture, be sure the needles are fitted with the shoulder flush with the bottom of the carb piston and wind each mixture nut down 2-1/2 turns, that will be a little on the rich side, but not overly to the point of bore wash, just enough to be 'safe' and not lean. After you get about 200 - 300 miles up, you should be able to set them better, but don't take too long doing so. They'll likely need another tweak after about 1000 miles.

I will be starting my freshly built turbo motor for the first time in the next few days. Car has no mot so i cant go for a drive to bed the rings in.
Is there any value in jacking front of car up and drive against the brakes to load the engine?

thanks very much spider you have been very helpful.

i at the moment i am looking into a hif 44. as they are nice and simple to adjust. also a safe (er) way to run in the engine. twins can go on once its all run in and ready to have a full RR set up,

thanks again

Yes il probably end up running a single carb until it's bedded in . ... Ken

what about dizzys, i have a vac and a non vac aldon dizzy.

i have heard that no vac are more for tuned engines where performance is in mine , and vac for more standard day to day engines,

but i have not really looked into why, and want makes them better for different engines.

Glad this is being of some help to you Dean

I did see your post the other day re: which dissy to use, my answer is well, I don't have one!! Or perhaps my answer is the one which has the curve that best suits your engine, while that is an answer, it's hardly helpful. Sorry I can't offer anything better than that.

after a bit of reading, i will be running a vac. it better for a road car.

a not vac are better for car running at a higher rpm , like a track car

stolen from piston heads:

For road cars the vacuum advance gives improved idle cooling and quality, fuel economy, throttle response and driveability, and it enables both spark knock control under full throttle accelerations, and leaner fuelling for light loads.

This is because the vacuum advance allows the distributor to supply optimum spark timing, proportional to both the load and the speed output. Without it, the distributor can only vary spark timing in proportion to engine speed and ignores the need for around 20 degrees of timing advance at light loads. The change in optimum timing at light loads is that when operating at light loads, the mixture is leaner and less dense, which cause the combustion charge to burn slower, which means that to reach peak pressure at the optimum point in the cycle, the spark must be initiated earlier. Failure to do so results in "retarded" spark timing with all the associated issues of higher fuel consumptionand emissions but also, importantly, less power.

All engines are different, and have different spark timing requirements, but they are all the same in that as load is decreased, additional spark timing is required for optimum combustion.
There are only a few applications where vacuum advance is not a benefit - Racing engines, Heavy duty large trucks, and other engines where there is a relatively constant speed and load.