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Ignition
Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 10:30 pm
by vegar
A newbe question maybe, but I ask it anyway
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My Morris 1300 is not running as he should. I was reading in Haynes that if the car is hard to start and after a couple of km's it will stop, it should be the condensator, and a way to test this is to leave the ignition on and open the points. If there is a spark, it is the condensator.
I have now changed the condensator, but when I tested it still had a small spark. Are my new condensator also broken??
Re: Ignition
Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 10:49 pm
by JC T ONE
Is it a new condenser ? these are no good
Try & locate a New Old Stock (NOS) or contact
http://www.distributordoctor.com/distri ... ensers.htm
Jens Christian
Re: Ignition
Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 11:23 pm
by vegar
Yes, new in the box condenser
Re: Ignition
Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 12:22 am
by Smiffy
There will always be a spark when you separate the points, with the ignition on. After all this is how it works, but the spark shouldn't be a bright/strong one. The condenser is there to lower the voltage across the points, to make them last longer.
Re: Ignition
Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 12:42 pm
by dklawson
As Smiffy said, the spark at the points should not be too big. I don't know how to describe or qualify what too big is... it's sort of a thing you know after working on ignition systems for a while. As best I can describe it, the spark should be blue and relatively small requiring the distributor to be in the shadows for the spark to be clearly seen. A larger spark can mean the condenser has failed. Likewise, if the spark is orange instead of blue, replace the condenser.
If the points gap is too narrow, the engine may be hard to start and the engine may die after a short period of running. I assume that since you have replaced the condenser you have dressed or replaced the points and set them to the proper gap. Some sets of points include a felt wick to rub against the 4-lobe cam below the rotor. If your points have the wick, make sure it is fully wet with engine oil. If your points do not have the wick, apply a thin film of light grease to the 4-lobe cam.
In general, is your car's running problem new? If so, when did it last run correctly and what has been done on the car recently before the problem appeared?
Re: Ignition
Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:10 pm
by vegar
I was using my 1300 all winter with no problem, but after a bit of motorwaydriving at 120 km/H, it was overheating. I discovered a broken head gasket and very dirty carb. Replaced the head gasket, cleaned the carb and innstalled a modified head at the same time. I have also borrowed some ignition parts for trouble shooting on my Mini, but all parts should be back where they started out.
Today I replaced the rotor, cap, points and condenser. It fires up great now, but had no time to do a test drive. Hopefully it should be OK, and I can book a MOT next week
Thanks for all help and tips
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Re: Ignition
Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 9:26 am
by ianh1968
If the engine now starts OK, but does fail after a few miles,
check the rotor arm. It's now fairly common knowledge
that the "Genuine Lucas" type are very poor...
http://www.distributordoctor.com/rotor_arms.html
I had a faulty one myself recently and after having replaced
all other ignition parts, found that putting on one of these "Red"
arms cured the problem.
Ian