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Ollie78 wrote:They don't fit some people that well though, depends on face shape and beard

Hmm, that might be a problem then Ollie.

I hope it doesn't mean I'll have to clean shave for only the second time in 16 years

Depends if you have a full on grizzly adams or just cant be bothered with shaving often.
That type have a silicon seal around the face, they don't seal a lot with a massive beard.

Ollie78 wrote: Depends if you have a full on grizzly adams or just cant be bothered with shaving often.
That type have a silicon seal around the face, they don't seal a lot with a massive beard.

No it's just rough stubble to short beard length usually. I can't seem to grow a proper First Born style beard unlike some of the Neanderthals I work with

I'm not allowed to clean shave as it makes it look like my other half is a cradle snatcher

Hi ollie / Andrew . Yes you can use 2 pack primer over cellulose , no problem . Now if you was putting cellulose over 2 pack and the 2 pack primer hadn't cured enough you could possibly get a reaction , crazing up . So if you decide to paint cellulose top coat over your 2 pack primer I would definataly leave enough time for the 2 pack primer to have cured , to be safe . Yes that is the mask . Now I wouldn't advise to use it over a air fed but if your in a well ventilated room and bearing in mind your not painting every day of the week it will be fine . That's why I said before if you can extract the overspray in the room quickly so it's not in the air it will obviously cause less hazard . Also if the paint is in the air and not escaping , all it will do is land and settle on the coat you've just applied . Ollie I come from a family of car painters . My father was a painter in ford all his working life . And my grandad before him . Now from what me old dad has told me , you are correct in assuming that the cars were not painted in cellulose from the factory . They were painted in stoving enamel . Cellulose was born so as to give the dealerships a paint to use for repair work etc . That is what my father told me so if anyone knows of anything different to how Bmc painted there minis , I wouldn't argue with you . I'm hopefully painting my cooper s in the next month or so . I have a 50ft workshop in my back garden with a spray booth so your welcome to come over and I'll show you how to paint 2 pack clear over base top coat .. Ken

Hi Ken,

Thanks for that info, very useful indeed.

We haven't got the luxury of air fed equipment or a spray booth hence why 2 pack has, prior to this thread, been a bit of a no-go. I now think its feasible and the primer can be applied with the doors open to help with ventilation.

How long does it take for the primer to cure ?

Dad is an old school mechanic and self taught panel beater/sprayer for all his working life and now into his retirement. He has only ever used cellulose or synthetic (horrible stuff). Over the years he has taught me how to spray but only in cellulose.

I'm not going to say its easy Andrew but it is not impossible to use 2 pack at home . Conditions permitting . It's a different technique to painting cellulose and also application . It's quite hard to explain . If you started with 2 pack primer it would go a certain way in learning yourself how to paint top coat , again a very different application . I'm told by my apprentices that I haven't moved on with my painting . I'm old fashioned because I still use a devilbiss jga spray gun and pot and mix the paint , hardener , thinners with a mixing stick . They use a HVLP gun and viscosity cup etc . Can they paint better than me , can they fuck ...cellulose painting drys quick . 2 pack a lot slower and requiring a bit of heat . A advantage with 2 pack primer is the mixing of it is idiot proof when mixed and measured properly using a stick . Take your time with 2 pack . Don't hammer on the first coat trying to cover it in one go . If you can see through the first coat that's fine . Let the first coat go sticky on surrounding masking before applying further wetter coats . ..... Anyway I won't bang on anymore about painting unless asked because its ollies thread about his resto . Ken

my opinion nowadays with spraying cars is 'the best way to spray a car, is to get someone else to do it'

Ollie78 wrote:I think its P3 filters for fumes.. instead of P2 for dust particles etc They don't fit some people that well though, depends on face shape and beard

Nope.

P1-3 relate to particulate ratings. Fume requires specific cannisetr type filters.

You are right that the old 'chin minge' negares the effectiveness of face fit of masks, and stubble is the worst as it holds the seal away fron the skin. remember it is the very fine particles which do the real harm as they go RIGHT down into the lungs. These are the particles you can't see (other than in sunlight stream / dust lamp)

If you can't sleep, have a read of: http://www.hse.gov.uk/respiratory-protective-equipment/ or
http://www.hse.gov.uk/mvr/bodyshop/index.htm

Of course, as you're not at work you can do what you like, but I always used the argument of "if I asked you to drink / breathe in / snort that, would you do it?" if not, it's a good reason to get the right kit. Lungs are important.

And I'm on holiday too......

rich@minispares.com wrote:my opinion nowadays with spraying cars is 'the best way to spray a car, is to get someone else to do it'

Depends on how big your wallet is Rich

I totally agree with being careful with potentially harmful products but there's being careful and going OTT over it. If we went by the rules on everything the powers to be tells us is harmful nothing would get done. Common sense should prevail.

Maybe I should just shave where the mask touches my face, a new beard style maybe

Ollie, back to you for more details on your fantastic restoration

Just trying to remember who said they sprayed 2k all the time just with a normal mask (or not) just made sure they drank a pint of milk afterwards to counteract the effects

RE the filters, thanks for clearing that, I wasn't too sure... P2 and P3, I have forgotten.
I took the canister filters from work. They are bought for the purpose of filtering lead fumes so thought they would be better than nothing. I'll invest in the Gerson 2K when I prime.
Aren't fumes made up of particles anyway? How small does a particle need to be before it becomes fume?

A glass of milk... brilliant.

These are a good mask for occasionally painting 2 pack.

I have one of these and use it for some jobs, my left eye is sensitised to two pack paint after I got some in the eye around ten years ago, can't wear an open mask be it air fed or standard cartridge respirator.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-6000-Serie ... 3a89825e93

I managed to get a bit more time on the car.
Welding on the radiator cowling was straightforward but the heat from welding somehow managed to move the front of the inner wing down by around 3/16". It took a while to bend it back up and to re straighten the lip that joins the wing.
I take one step forward and then two back at every stage.

The FE tag came off without too many issues but was rusty.
It didn't take long to de rust with phosphoric acid and a wire brush and as its a separate piece it could be properly washed/neutralised afterwards.
I also got around to welding on the engine steady bracket.
As previously mentioned the bulkhead on my car had cracked, I repaired that but the stabiliser bracket also had a big fracture so I used M-Machine's heavy duty one which it seems is pretty much the same as a standard one with some triangulation for strength.
I drilled right through to the spreader plate inside the cross member box section for the plug weld in an attempt to make it stronger.

It looks ok, I'm not sure if its a bit unnecessary but should I consider seam welding around the top of the bracket as well?

Excellent work as always.
It certainly wouldn't do any harm running a weld along the top of the bracket just to make sure.

Finally repaired the other side of the scuttle, that's the last of the serious rust out of the car. Just re panelling the front end left now and repairing/re skinning the doors.

I'm hoping for advice on a 'how to' fit the doors and A panels. I know its going to be a time consuming challenge but I want half decent panel gaps. What sequence should they be done in
I'm sure I have the original (rusty) doors for the car as one of them has the Henleys main dealer/distributor sticker still on it which matches the heritage cert. The car was bought from Henleys in Bristol in April 68. I spent a long time making sure the new door steps went back in the same same place as the old ones but in hind sight that wasn't the best idea as the doors don't fit that well and possibly never did. Is that normal They fit in the aperture ok-ish but are quite tight at the front against the doorstep and might rub when painted.
Do I re skin the door to fit or try to hydraulic ram 1/16" to an 1/8" out of the aperture Are all mk1 and 2 doors the same dimensions or was there a factory tolerance Any thoughts or recommendations would be very welcome.

Here's the pics of my last bit of bodging
Cheers, Ollie

Hi ollie . May I give you my advise on this. . Re - skin both doors . Then fit front subframe . Bolt on front panel loosely at front of subframe . Fit bonnet . Now clamp up the two front wings and outer A panels . Use screws if you have to . Don't worry about inner A panels at this point . Fit the doors and don't weld anything yet . Once your happy with all the gaps . Remove the front wings . Now you can fit the inner A panels and screw them to the inner wings . Remove outer A panels and doors . Now you can weld up the inner A panels . Then refit the doors and outer A panels . Adjust everything up and your now ready to weld every thing up . Don't take to much notice of the front panel to subframe holes , sometimes they can be out . .

Thanks for that Ken, the work you've done on your shell looks perfect, I will definitely be following your advise.

I had so far been making sure the front panel bolts holes were exactly aligned before moving on but seeing as I have a magnum panel that was probably not good. I have bought magnum inner A panels as well and they definitely don't fit anything like yours at the moment, guess I'll have to hammer them a bit flatter. I bought an old genuine stock wing for one side and a heritage for the other and would have liked to have avoided magnum but I money is tight.
So far I've built it all up several times and there are some issues. I am seriously considering using the M-Machine A post with A panel as like you have as I think it might help with the door fit, the problem is the same both sides, I have the doors lined up nice with the rear quarters and window frames but both doors just seem slightly too big at the bottom/front along the sill. If I cant sort it out would you think using a ram to open it up an 1/8" at the front is a bad idea? Its for this reason I have been holding off re skinning the doors (I coughed up for heritage skins) just in case I've f***** up somewhere and need to dress the door skin lip back a bit to get a nice fit.

Cheers, Ollie

Ollie I would go ahead and re- skin your doors . When I restore my minis basically what your doing is making everything fit around your doors , not trying to fit your door in a particular size hole . The lack of door gap you've mentioned is common when doing minis . May sound crude but a bit of 4x2 and club hammer easily sorts the bottom door gap . The m machine A panel and pillar panel is the way to go .