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The excuse for a battery box that wasted alot of boot space was next to vacate the body.


The original metal is worn out so will need some fixing.


Removed the brackets to slot new boot floor under them. Just to get an idea.



While removing the stone chip from the bottom of the boot floor, this happened.....

After cutting of the bits that is nasty, left the body like this.




Needed to fix the metal around the new battery box.





Spot welded new 90 deg extra support tabs in.



Lined it all up as well as I could.


After some hours, welding grinding and spot welding where I could, this is the final pic for the day.

You're quite busy!

These are very similar closing panels on my May '60 ...

Hi Gents

Thanks for the comments.

So yes the closing panels is standard on very early cars.

I am thinking of closing them properly like later cars though.

Cheers

I would let them open.

1. it's original
2. you can better get clean it

My cooper is now 60 years old and there is no rust in sight...

Rear quarter closing panels. I would - and did - close them, BUT..... Leave small openings at the corners or joints so that you can insert a small nozzle from an aerosol protective oil spray can. That way you can make sure that you can get inside the closed-in section and by wiggling the straw around, you will keep inside the box section well protected internally. I did the same with every other box section too

Thanks for the suggestions Gents, I will ponder on it.

So next in the chain reaction of events...

The donor car before being cut up some more.


Split the seams and removed the whole boot aperture panel after removing all paint.


Fitted loosely to it's new home.


Mocking up the rear lamp gussets for the mk1 rear lights and the boot hinge repair panel.

This is the state of the Lh outer a-panel.


After removing the outer, well this was as expected.



A closer look at the carnage.



Now onto the driver's side, more of the same just a little bit less. After some paint removal.




This is how far I got, will carry on ASAP.

Next was the bottom of the rear panel to go, which was fixed with fiber glass previously.


Profile of the joint to the left was not too bad, had to split it at the bottom and weld extra bit in to line up with the bottom.


Fitted the boot lid that I will use after it has been given a proper clean and some panel beating.


Only welded the RH corner after checking the fitment of boot lid.

Stripped pedal box out next.


Bracket that holds the fuel line and under that the bracket for the heater hoses.


Cleaned the stone chip to see the welding for the plate on the left hand foot well.


The stone chip for the Driver side rear.


Attacked the floor pan....

Initially ended up like this.



Opened the inner sill.


Removed the plate for the pot stirrer.



Cleaned driver side door step up and applied some weld thru primer



Finally.

Next up drilled crossmember and jack support.



Some time later had this....



That is some rust


Marked new floor pan.

Cut to size tacked in place.



Just need side to be spot welded and crossmember re-attached.


Moved onto to the driver side. Was fitted with a 3mm thick plate...
Had to pie cut it to get it out, further the damn solder is 8mm thick in certain places.




Sure is crusty.



After quite some time and a few choice swear words later.

Marked and cut the brazed parts out.


Nearly completely welded in.



Started to clean the tunnel and next to it, to further assess the metal for the floor pans.


Removed the left floor pan.

Removed the remains of the floorpan from the heelboard.


Ready to be welded in.


Latest parts panel delivery.



All done for now.

Last but not least driver rear floor next.



All ready to fit.



Even the flutes lined up.




Finished welding it in and cleaning welds up.

This was the state of the LH bottom hinge support on the inner a-panel.



A few moments later.



The closing panel also has had it.


Had to let some new metal in, due to all that being rotten.

When I bolted the two panels together 3 of the holes lined up, the 4th not so much.



So rectified that. Cleaned threads up of the studs and threads in the hinges for the bolts....




Initial door fitment



Tried a couple of things, loosening the bolts and nuts of the hinges, clamping and un-clamping at certain places etc. Eventually just ensured that the door skin part of the door fitted the aperture propely as I do not have access to proper panel beating tools etc to change the aperture IF needed due to previous accidents, owners etc.


And then welded everything above the bottom hinge support as this needs some more attention to get the outer a-panel to line up better as the very bottom edge.

Decided the remove the outer a-panel again as I was about the spot weld the edges, just have to improve the fitment at the bottom left corner of the door aperture. Primed both items.




Removed the door again to look at the outer a-panel alignment and gaps, but the one hole still gave problems again...




Door fits fine and I believe 200 percent better than before I removed the rotten inner a-panel, just this one corner to fix, I believe my new metal piece is not formed properly, so will improve on this. I had a look at the heritage panel 14A7901 to see the shape at the bottom of it. I will work something out.