Polarsilver wrote: ↑Sat Jul 10, 2021 9:55 pm
David.. me-thinks your not the type to give in to such Rosepetal defeat .. ok so you dont want to fit spacers .. well the race boys cannot fit spacers when using Rosepetals ..so what do they do to the brake caliper to allow Rosepetal clearance ?.. i dont know but someone on here does
Thanks both. Fitting a 3mm spacer would sort the problem. I checked this by using some 3mm washers between wheel and drive flange. Before any hands are held up in horror it’s not a road going fix! The callipers as mentioned have already been reduced on the wheel side of the lug that carries the bleed nipple. I’m just beginning to feel uncomfortable with taking any more metal away to get clearance. I’ve take about this much away already and it’s getting close to the edge of the bleed nipple.
137F9066-65C0-432A-8409-4D15DBE00DA4.jpeg
I suppose the bleed nipple seat is far away enough to not to be at risk. Maybe I’ll pluck up some courage and take some more away.
As back up I have the offer of a set of NOS 4.5 S rims.
D
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think with all this hastle for a set of wheels id be taking up the offer of the 4.5 /S original wheels, and just enjoy driving the car without any doubts or worries on your mind
As soon as you are grinding away at calipers and trying to stop the wheels falling off, it's game over. It's just not worth the aggro - at what point will you actually trust the car again?
David, further your issues i thought i better check out If my MS Rosepetals fit .. results are these new Rosepetal rims fit my BMC standard 7 .5inch "S" Hubs & Calipers providing the 7.5mm thick "Minispares supplied Spacer" is used .. tried to measure the clearance between the area of Bleed Screw Casting and the Wheel Rim ..but it is not possible to get a Feeler gauge in that area with the Wheel bolted in position .. i would guess wheel rim clearance to the Caliper Casting is circa 0.015 thou... not a lot but could be increased by a grind of the brake caliper in that area.
Not related to your issue.. i also tried the MS Rosepetal onto a S Hub this time fitted with a MS 4 Pot Caliper.. Result is with the supplied 7.5mm thick spacer all bolted up the Rosepetal Fouls the 4pot caliper outer bleed nipple .. the only whay the MS Rosepetal with fit the MS 4pot caliper would be to remove the caliper outer bleed nipple & fit a blank plug to get the clearance .. will then only have the inner Bleed Screw on that 4 pot Caliper ..
Happy Days.
I have done the deal and agreed a price for six NOS unused but resprayed S rims (ex Basil Wales).
2C5D62DB-575C-4E96-B5B0-48B7E6C1B2FF.jpeg
The Rose Petals will probably sit about for a while until I decide what to do with them. The new rims will get 145/10 Blockleys then I will have no clearance issues at all (presently the 165\70\10s need a spacer even with S drums to clear the dampers at the rear). So, back to a standard S set up. What can be wrong with that?
D
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Dearg1275 wrote: ↑Sun Jul 11, 2021 6:48 pm
I have done the deal and agreed a price for six NOS unused but resprayed S rims (ex Basil Wales).
2C5D62DB-575C-4E96-B5B0-48B7E6C1B2FF.jpeg
The Rose Petals will probably sit about for a while until I decide what to do with them. The new rims will get 145/10 Blockleys then I will have no clearance issues at all (presently the 165\70\10s need a spacer even with S drums to clear the dampers at the rear). So, back to a standard S set up. What can be wrong with that?
D
excellent that will solve all your problems ,at least youl be safe and can take her a run without any worries in that area , will look better too in my opinion , happy motoring david
Dearg1275 wrote: ↑Sun Jul 11, 2021 6:48 pm
I have done the deal and agreed a price for six NOS unused but resprayed S rims (ex Basil Wales).
2C5D62DB-575C-4E96-B5B0-48B7E6C1B2FF.jpeg
The Rose Petals will probably sit about for a while until I decide what to do with them. The new rims will get 145/10 Blockleys then I will have no clearance issues at all (presently the 165\70\10s need a spacer even with S drums to clear the dampers at the rear). So, back to a standard S set up. What can be wrong with that?
D
excellent that will solve all your problems ,at least youl be safe and can take her a run without any worries in that area , will look better too in my opinion , happy motoring david
The deed is done. And this is the clearance I now have on the callipers.
41DAC993-863E-45BF-9212-F819DBF2A912.jpeg
And on the car proper.
34DDC299-E036-4598-B2B8-9D67525A02BE.jpeg
Now a question. That is a new hub and new Timken set and it is tight. Is it in order to use shims to increase the width of the middle spacer in the bearing set? Or perhaps just use shims to determine the ideal size and then get a spacer made. Your thoughts.
D
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From the engineering point of view I have used shims many many times. Like the spacer, the shim(s) are locked in place longitudinally. On several occasions I haven't got the exact thickness I've cut one from slightly thicker material. At that, the wheel will rock slightly, so I skim a couple of thou off the spacer until I get .003 or so end float. Final fit, test then fit hub seal, grease-up, nut and lock-up.
Did it to my RCSport 2 weeks ago
PS agree with Smokie above. Those wheels just make it......
Looking great there with those 4.5's and 145 tyres. I have the same sizes awaiting my Inno, really confirms for me I've made the right choice. The 145s look just right on those wheels. Hope this solves all your headaches!
Of course I know what a dipstick is, you get called something often enough you look it up!
I wonder if you'd have had any fitting/clearance problems with Dunlop D1's. Alongside vented steels, D1's must be another contender for looking dead right on Coopers and S's
hi d
i was assembling my hubs the other day aand after tightening all the bolts the disc would not turn panic then as i undone the bolts holding the flange to the disc the thing turned problem the bolts were just to long so a flat washer under the lock washer solved the problem so maybe that could be the cause of the wheel not turning they do not need to be to long to drag on the hub
cheers roger mcnab
roger mcnab wrote: ↑Fri Jul 23, 2021 10:36 am
hi d
i was assembling my hubs the other day aand after tightening all the bolts the disc would not turn panic then as i undone the bolts holding the flange to the disc the thing turned problem the bolts were just to long so a flat washer under the lock washer solved the problem so maybe that could be the cause of the wheel not turning they do not need to be to long to drag on the hub
cheers roger mcnab
Sorry Roger, I don’t follow you. There are no lock washers on the 7.5 inch S disc brake/ hub assembly. Four Philips screws to locate the drive flange and disc and the four wheel studs through the disc and drive flange clamp it all up (most of the time ) when the wheel is on.
My current problem is that the wheel bearing is slightly over loaded using the bearing kit as supplied making it slightly too stiff to spin the wheel freely.
Peter Laidler wrote: ↑Fri Jul 23, 2021 9:51 am
I wonder if you'd have had any fitting/clearance problems with Dunlop D1's. Alongside vented steels, D1's must be another contender for looking dead right on Coopers and S's
I may be wrong in this but I thought the D1s were all produced with the off set for the Coopers. If fitted to the S set up they sit further out than they would on the plain Cooper/standard mini. This would indeed move the edge of the rim away from the calliper but the down side would be that they would not sit within the standard wheel arch, especially so with 165\70\10s fitted.
Back in its early days KEC did wear D1s but was also fitted with wheel arch extensions (and a caravan).
C15409A7-F337-4E32-9581-FD97FAD5AFC4.jpeg
D
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Peter Laidler wrote: ↑Thu Jul 22, 2021 7:36 pm
From the engineering point of view I have used shims many many times. Like the spacer, the shim(s) are locked in place longitudinally. On several occasions I haven't got the exact thickness I've cut one from slightly thicker material. At that, the wheel will rock slightly, so I skim a couple of thou off the spacer until I get .003 or so end float. Final fit, test then fit hub seal, grease-up, nut and lock-up.
Did it to my RCSport 2 weeks ago
PS agree with Smokie above. Those wheels just make it......
plus 1 the wheels look fantastic much better than rosepetals
hi d
well my discs are 8.4 with heavy duty drive flanges to be able to handle the enormous torque of the 3.5 v8 rover engine so have a different set up with 5/16 bolts in place of the screws i just assumed you had same but these do not fit 10 inch wheels
wheel bearings can be a pain
cheers roger
roger mcnab wrote: ↑Sat Jul 24, 2021 10:12 am
hi d
well my discs are 8.4 with heavy duty drive flanges to be able to handle the enormous torque of the 3.5 v8 rover engine so have a different set up with 5/16 bolts in place of the screws i just assumed you had same but these do not fit 10 inch wheels
wheel bearings can be a pain
cheers roger
c
Hi Roger
Any chance of any pictures of your project ?
Cheers
Marc
