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Re the extended bolts or long threaded rods to align the sub frame towers. BRILLIANT idea. It caused me a major headache when lifting the body slightly off the front sub frame when stripping out the steering rack for rebuilding.

Somehow the sub frame slightly twisted by a gnats knacker and when body lifted or lowered again it was extremely difficult - and impossible to see of course - exactly which way to push, pull or slide the body or sub frame in order to align the xxxxing hole to the threads threads.

Did it eventually the next day with help of mini pal Will!

With a longer 1/4" threaded bolt into each side it'd have gone back already aligned. Lesson learned there

Peter Laidler wrote: ↑Tue Sep 03, 2024 6:00 pm Re the extended bolts or long threaded rods to align the sub frame towers. BRILLIANT idea. It caused me a major headache when lifting the body slightly off the front sub frame when stripping out the steering rack for rebuilding.

Somehow the sub frame slightly twisted by a gnats knacker and when body lifted or lowered again it was extremely difficult - and impossible to see of course - exactly which way to push, pull or slide the body or sub frame in order to align the xxxxing hole to the threads threads.

Did it eventually the next day with help of mini pal Will!

With a longer 1/4" threaded bolt into each side it'd have gone back already aligned. Lesson learned there

Which is why I prefer the front subframes which were fitted with studs rather than bolts for easier alignment....I refitted one during a restoration on an early 1959 Mini last week and it slotted straight in with no problems, lifted up into position on a trolley jack.

Looking good, why don’t you post a build thread in “our cars and projects” section.
D

I think Mark just has copied it across to that section

The local tyre place fitted the Blockleys, so I picked them up and took delivery of a packet of wheel nuts, so this is how it will look.

I etched and painted the sub-frames too.

All all the bushes, bolts, bearings, shocks, cones, discs calipers, back plates shoes etc. arrived from Mini Sport to allow me to get the sub-frames ready for refitting with the wheels on.

I also purchased the brake lines, cv joints, wheel hubs, steering rack overhaul kit, track rod ends, knuckles and some other bits and pieces.

Must sort a fuel line.

Looks like now have a carb issue.

The pair I have are 1.5 inch off an older Riley, we have decided to use them on something else.

So I now need a 1 1/4 inch pair with the correct mini linkage, elbows and air filter box.

My engine man thinks he might be onto a couple for a 66' 1275, certainly they are on Ebay.

Not in too much of a hurry for them today!

Great thread and most informative too. Just goes to show that one picture describes a thousand words....... or in this case, a zillion words.

I suggested to Andy, who restored the basket-case HOY that he, and maybe PolitePerson now, (there are many others, such as Daz and Surfari etc etc) should gather all these pictures up and write the definitive book about restoring a mini.

All it needs is a bloke who can take good pics, one that can do a bit of writing (don't worry, book editors will set it all out) and another who understands computers and you're home and dry. It'll take a year and at the end out comes a good readable soft cover book that'll sell like hot cakes.

Don't say that it doesn't work like that, it does. I've done it a few times and it paid my mortgage!

The nearest to that kind of book for Mini Restoration is this one linked below from Haynes by Lindsay Porter.

Mini Restoration Manual (2nd Edition) :-
https://haynes.com/en-gb/mini-restorati ... nd-edition

I have the first edtion from back in 1984 but it could do with an update with colour photos rather than black & white.

To be honest Martian, it was already out of date technically when I started my resto in 1986. We need another total revamp by Andy or Polite Person plus the others. Daz and Surfari spring to mind. Surfari did a later Mk5 type body. Yep, certainly needed I say.....

Peter Laidler wrote: ↑Sun Sep 08, 2024 10:33 pm To be honest Martian, it was already out of date technically when I started my resto in 1986. We need another total revamp by Andy or Polite Person plus the others. Daz and Surfari spring to mind. Surfari did a later Mk5 type body. Yep, certainly needed I say.....

Peter, I agree...it should also include some of your detailed technical write ups and useful improvements, hints and tips!

Glad to see the Forum lives!

Good idea, but I am not sure I am the man, as I have never done one before!

I could tell you a thing or two about doing an E type in 2024 or restoring a big old big Citroen as I have used many different suppliers and know quite a few money saving shortcuts.

Its the professional Mini restorers who know the best place to get the stuff from and what the common restoration mistakes are.

I think getting them to put in in writing could be challenging for a number of reasons that I can think of!

It might be a bit like going to work, going home, then going on a forum about work!

For what it is worth, the core metal working skills are very similar for all monocoque cars.

All you need is a shed and angle grinder, a mig welder a spot weld drill and scribe and you are away!

Maybe

I popped in to see the engine earlier and took a picture. We now have a pair of correct carbs for it apparently.

It all came from someone called Geoff Bynham? who used to build race engines back in the late 60's apparently.
John, the current engine builder has had it all in storage ever since.

The engine comprised a new crated block and head that was unused, it has S 12G1895 on the head and 12G 083 on the block.

It has been apart and back together and it is as new but with 1.6 ratio rockers.

The gearbox has 22G1128 on the casting and has been assembled as a close ration straight cut gearset with bevel gears on the gear tower.

It runs well sitting on a crate, so now I just need a car to attach it all to.

Just about ready for collection, I had got bumped to the back of the queue.

It didnt take them 2 long to paint it once they started the prep.

Maybe I will collect the shell next week?

Need to think about what order to refit everything.

Looking good, love the colour scheme.
Is the cooling fan on backwards?
D

Thanks,
It it was, not any more!

MAGNIFICENT JOB............ Join Andy, Daz, MiniSurfari and the other intrepid band of mini restoration maestros. And 10/10 for the colour choice too

Thanks,
It ended up being a 2 part paint system by mistake in Tweed Grey, base coat then clear coat. Expensive.
Never mind, at least it wont lose its shine easily and be quite scratch resistant.
The roof was the worst part. Leveling out the little dinks where things had been put on it in 40 years of storage took time. That was snowberry from memory.
2 small gutter repairs were needed.
The bonnet was original but ok, the strengthening ribs need gently blasting.
The window apertures were also ok. I had already sealed and painted the underside.
The rest was from Doreen, so needed little in terms of prep. Still takes time though.

I might have time to fit the brake lines, pedals and loom prior to picking up the doors and bonnet.
The interior is good, needing dash trim and door cards only from memory.
I haven't started building up the sub-frames yet, but they are about ready to assemble.

Lets see.

I moved the shell into the workshop today using the land rover and car trailer. The hanging panels will be done in a couple of weeks, so I will get as much of the shell done in the meantime . Todays work consisted of opening the loom form Auto-sparks, chucking it in the car and giving up. I will feel more energised when I find out the route the loom should be laid out! Maybe tomorrow.

Nice to see a few jag’s in the background I’ve worked on one or two of those..
D

Yes D, I have a few of those. I like em.'
'
Just thinking about building up the engine bay.

I am fitting a servo so the regulator box might have to go up into the corner on the engine bay, the fuse box on the bulkhead.

Why do some people fit black hardura style bulkhead sound deadening, others fit nothing.

Do they like the look of a clean engine bay?

It must get a bit noisy with only a single skin bulkhead ?

How did it come from the factory?

Anyone know?

I grabbed a couple of hours this afternoon to fit the loom and grommets, position the masters cylinders, think about the servo, put the rack in and the wiper rack.

I am guessing from pictures the position of the fuse-box and voltage regulator.

Need to add the plate below the masters with a seal, then I can bolt in the pedal box.

Need to get to grips with the sub-frames. I might just bolt them in empty the build them up on the car, then lower the engine and box in from above. Not sure.

My little trolley will need major alterations if we get much heavier and it is obstructing the sub-frame mounting holes at the moment.