mk1-forum.net

Some amazing work you've done there! Many would have given up.
Just a small point if you're after exactly correct spec: I found that when I bought a new "Mk1 front panel" the mounting plinths for the indicators were too big in diameter (to suit the later Rover Minis which had larger lights I think?) and I cut out the smaller original sections from my old panel and re-used them. Most people don't seem to worry about this small detail but thought it worth mentioning.
Congratulations on what you've achieved so far.

there is so much wrong with those heritage front panels that's is actually easier and better to use a magnum one.

at least they don't have the 'hump' at the front where they have to put the press insert in to convert the press from an mpi to an early.....

Old English White wrote:Some amazing work you've done there! Many would have given up.
Just a small point if you're after exactly correct spec: I found that when I bought a new "Mk1 front panel" the mounting plinths for the indicators were too big in diameter (to suit the later Rover Minis which had larger lights I think?) and I cut out the smaller original sections from my old panel and re-used them. Most people don't seem to worry about this small detail but thought it worth mentioning.
Congratulations on what you've achieved so far.

Thanks I wasn't aware of that, unfortunately I don't have the original front panel. I do however have an early mk3 panel, would I be right in thinking they have the smaller plinths as they use the same indicators? Cheers

rich@minispares.com wrote:there is so much wrong with those heritage front panels that's is actually easier and better to use a magnum one.

at least they don't have the 'hump' at the front where they have to put the press insert in to convert the press from an mpi to an early.....

I wish I had just bought a magnum one now, quite a big price difference as well

Nice work

Callum, Although I don't know a huge amount about Mk3s, they certainly had the smaller lights so I would guess that they probably DID have the smaller mountings yes.
As Rich says regarding the Heritage "Mk1" panel - it's a disgrace really to pretend that it is "correct" for these cars

Not had much to update on this recently due to Christmas and have been snowboarding as well but getting back into it again now. Inner wing is nearly ready to weld in, had to modify the panel to original spec as with most of the other panels.

When i started



The lumps removed and the strengthener welded on



Decided to weld the inner A panel on now whilst I can still get the spot welder arms in





That's it for now, will try and get it welded in at the weekend. Cheers

Got the inner wing welded in today







Turned the car around ready to start the other side, hoping it wont take as long. Cheers

Other inner wing finished with the inner a panel welded on

Looking really good, I am about to embark on a similar rebuild with my mk2, any chance of letting me know what model of spot welder you bought as am planning on getting one myself. Looking forward to seeing this complete and can't wait to start my car now. Just got to finish my mk1 deluxe first so still a couple of months away.

Daz1968 wrote:Looking really good, I am about to embark on a similar rebuild with my mk2, any chance of letting me know what model of spot welder you bought as am planning on getting one myself. Looking forward to seeing this complete and can't wait to start my car now. Just got to finish my mk1 deluxe first so still a couple of months away.

Thanks. Mine is quite an old sealy one I bought second hand but I believe this is the modern version.

http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.a ... results=16

If I were you I would buy one second hand and then sell it on when you have finished with it, new ones are very expensive.


Edit: forgot the link

Thanks, so you went with the 1+1mm, that helps as it's much cheaper than the 2+2mm one, only area I think may struggle is the rear valance as it's 3 layers but maybe spotweld floor to rear panel and plug weld the valance on, it should do all other seams ok I believe, how did you line inner a panel before fitting flitch panel as it looks much better spot welded

I thought the same about the 3 layers on the rear bumper lip, so I tested a few welds first on some scrap metal of the same thickness using the destructive (peel) test and the weld was just as good as I was getting with two layers. So the 1+1 type will weld in my case up to 3mm. I tried it on 4mm and it was too easy to break the weld apart.

What I did was make sure the outer A panel is in the right place using the door to align it. Then with this welded in I bolted both inner wings and front panel on checking fitment with the bonnet. Once I was happy I clamped the inner A panel up and used a few self tappers to fix it to the inner wing. I then took the inner wing and inner A panel out as one allowing me to spot weld them together. Hope that helps

Thanks, that makes sense. My car was restored a while ago and panels available then were useless. I was going to just freshen it up but since decided to do the job properly as when I worked it out the extra panels to do it correct are going to be max 2k above the cost of a freshen up and should enhance the car by much more. I am watching this with interest as it pretty much follows the route I am about to take.

Yep may as well do it properly first time round, would only regret it otherwise I think.

More updates soon

don't forget that with old spot welders, its not the actual cost of the machine, but how many arms come with it - new arms are RUDE prices, so an old machine with a selection of different arms is worth paying more for than a cleaner machine that only has the one, factory set.


I actually brought a broken spotwelder purely to get the crate of 20 or so sets of arms that came with it, I just threw the machine away, and bought a better one off ebay - so I ended up with quite a useful and economic machine.

Welded in and cleaned up today, took the horrible bracing out of the front as well and nothing has moved

First of all a big well done for all your great work so far.
I have the same problem as you do with regards to the doors. my drivers side door fits perfect, however passenger side door tends to go in from the upper rail (above ythe hinges if that makes sense) and I don't know if I should try buy another door or just maybe try bend it outwards? I aligned the a panel with the door riveted it before spot welding everything so its all aligned but the door rail seems to be the problem. what would you recommend me trying?
thanks
chris

coopers1968 wrote:First of all a big well done for all your great work so far.
I have the same problem as you do with regards to the doors. my drivers side door fits perfect, however passenger side door tends to go in from the upper rail (above ythe hinges if that makes sense) and I don't know if I should try buy another door or just maybe try bend it outwards? I aligned the a panel with the door riveted it another before spot welding everything so its all aligned but the door rail seems to be the problem. what would you recommend me trying?
thanks
chris

Thanks. You could try bending it like you say or cutting the frame and re welding where it needs to be? I haven't tackled the door gaps yet so I'm not much help I'm afraid.

A pillar closing panels were welded in on Friday, the dash rail is ready to weld in but I ran out of time.






Then today I got the scuttle welded in



Not a bad fit with the bonnet but still will need a bit of work





That's it for now