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Got to be honest, I have never bothered with the locknuts.

After everything was in place in the engine bay and the wiring between the dashboard and the engine was completed, it was time to insert the windscreen. Everything was also in place in the boot, so that I could also install the rear window. The windscreen is the only pane of glass that I could take over from the normal Mini. Thats why I left the window frame untouched, but checked it every now and then for dimensional accuracy. Because of the lower roof, I just tilted it a bit more.

There are different ways of installing the windows. Many of them are based on installation by 2 people. But it also works quite well alone. As a precaution for the windscreen and paint, I like to cover as much of the surrounding area as possible with blankets. Surprisingly, the windscreen struggled quite a bit at the corners when it was inserted into the windscreen seal. The subsequent pulling in of the chrome keader then took me another 1.5 hours. It kept slipping out of the seal That was no fun at all.


I was much more worried about the rear window, as I had calculated and cut the window cut-out myself. The special challenge was the comparatively tight radii of the corners. In fact, however, the window was easily inserted into the seal and the chrome strip was in place within 10 minutes. It can also be simple sometimes

So BMC should have done a time and motion study and built them all like that?

Al

Meanwhile, it is time to turn the attention to the seats. As described earlier, the normal Mini seats are unsuitable for the Broadspeed. Early seats with a fixed backrest or even later seats with a backrest that can be tilted backwards make access to the back seat, and more importantly, to the boot, extremely difficult. Only a few aftermarket seats from the 60s come into question. Microcell offered several seats as accessories at the time. The Microcell Contour Seat has the features I need. The seats not only allow the backrest to tilt backwards, but also forwards, so that the backrest lies flat on the seat and the whole seat can be stowed forwards in the footwell. They also provide better seat comfort plus improved lateral support. That’s why they were preferred in the luxury versions of the Mini (Radford and Wood & Picket). The down side is, it is difficult to find such seats nowadays.

Once you have found them, they usually need a complete overhaul after 50 years. So the covers and upholstery are taken down to the bare frame. There is also rust. As with the bodywork, it is sometimes easier to simply rebuild certain parts, or, as in my case, to shape them with hammer and dolly.

Doc, agree with your choice of seat .. especially when fully folded forward as they allow easy access to the rear of the car ..would be good if you can advise how to fix a sloppy back rest adjuster that my microcell seats seem to have.

Polarsilver wrote: ↑Sun Feb 27, 2022 10:18 pm ..would be good if you can advise how to fix a sloppy back rest adjuster that my microcell seats seem to have.

After so many years, of course, the whole mechanism and locking system is worn out. The mechanical parts are also made of quite soft steel. In particular, the teeth between the backrest and the adjustment mechanism wear out. As a result, the backrest no longer holds its position under load. The wear basically occurs on the 4 teeth of the lower lever.

The easiest way to get the play out of the worn mechanical parts is to apply new material. I have done this with MIG welding, for example. Afterwards, the original shape has to be restored with a grinder or file. Since these are not highly stressed transmission parts, you can be creative. First and foremost, you need a bit of patience, but it pays off afterwards.

Thanks Doc ..will give your advice a go.

In my view, the connection between man and machine is particularly important for the Mini to be really fun afterwards. The butt has to feel comfortable and the hands have to enjoy gripping the steering wheel . Accordingly, I always pay special attention to this.

I had the seat frames sandblasted and powder-coated to ensure a solid rebuild. Of course, the mechanics have also suffered from the ravages of time. Worn gears and plenty of play in levers and locks. Sometimes the Microcell seats are only found in parts as a joblot. Thus, the mechanical parts might be missing completely . That's why I took the opportunity to rebuild all these parts. The possibility of having parts laser-cut over the internet proved to be an extremely useful achievement. The final trimming work can be done by a professional. Many thanks to Newton Commercial.

hi doc
those seats look great probably better than new great work this car is going to be a gem
cheers roger mcnab

Just wow!!!

Meanwhile, the time has come when I have to face my last unsolved problem. And that is, how do I get the metal surround of the rear quarter windows into the desired shape? The critical point is to bend a U-profile over the open side without the flanks folding away inwards or outwards. This problem has been bothering me for several years now without me being able to find a solution. I have asked the instructors at the metal shaping academy, presented my problem to several locksmiths and asked for advice in the international metal forum. Everywhere only a shrug of the shoulders, or solutions with special machines for thousands of Euros But since many cars in the 60s and 70s had such window surrounds, there should be a practical solution


In the end, I simply set to work with a vague idea of a solution and kept trying until it eventually worked. And as it is always the case, when you have found a solution, you are surprised how simple it can be.

I orientated myself on the principle of tube bending machines. From two L-profiles, a handful of ball bearings and suitable washers I built my bending tool for the vice. It works perfectly for the long bend on the top. Clamp it, build up some pre-tension and then roll it back and forth by hand. Of course, I did a few test bends before I dared to make the first frame. What goes loosely can be seen here

I decided to use the stainless steel frames from the later Minis and build the new frames from them. This saves me the expensive chrome plating.

For the tight radius in the back tip I had to adjust the arrangement of the rollers. But with a little effort it worked. So I built the glass frame out of three sections, which only have to be welded together

hi doc
well done with the shaping i have found that if you look at a problem long enough the solution will come as it has for you next is how to seal the glass when doing the side windows for the clubman the rubber just fell to bits so i was told to use flat strip rubber
it proved to be to thick so looking at the spare window i pulled it apart and the seal was good problem solved but i was playing with using black silicone and cleaning off what squeezed out but did not have to do it but must be other way keep up the good work
car is looking great
cheers roger mcnab

Great work. Most impressive!

So basically The Doc invented the wheel!
An english such, in a smaller version
As you say Doc, if they could do it back in the 60ies so sureley it should be doable now.
Very well done and thought out!


(And soon he will make another pair, and get them chromed.. )

I think that you're right Doc. Brass is pliable will stretch as it rounds the sharp corner and is easy to chrome. I am not sure but I have a feeling in my bones that the U shape pre-formed brass might be available from the model steam hobby suppliers.

Great work Doc

In the meantime, I have also fitted the doors, adapted the upper trim to the shortened window frames and the changed angle of the a pillar. The Downton exterior mirrors simply fit visually very well. However, as many had to experience, they can hardly be adjusted to the desired angle. For this purpose, special wedge-shaped spacers were used to remedy exactly this deficit.


Another shortcoming is the bonnet hook. If you don't carefully push the hook back every time you close the bonnet, or if a MOT inspector lets the bonnet fall shut, the paint on the slam panel is scratched in no time. For this reason, I shaped a thin stainless-steel plate and glued it to the slam panel.


I had shortened the rear side pockets. Accordingly, the new inner covers had to be adjusted. But that went surprisingly well. The parcel shelf now has a matching carpet lining and I have already fitted the latches for the back seat.

what a dream car!

can't wait to see it!

well done

Dr.Mabo wrote: ↑Wed Jun 17, 2020 10:37 am It’s always good to know who is the brainchild of a project. This is one reason why I decided to sign my work. The other reason is to avoid that this Broadspeed becomes a fake and could be called original at some point. The signature should be prominent, largely not removable but not visible on the first sight. So the best place for that is the boot floor extension. The Broadspeed uses the regular Mini rear valance but has an extended tail like a Hornet or Elf. The hand embossed signature stiffened the panel and it’s only visible from below or with a mirror


IMG_5488.jpgIMG_5496.jpgIMG_5508.jpgIMG_5509.jpgIMG_5657.jpg

so long
the Doc

Hi Doc
Just had our kitchen refurbished and your embossed idea appeared on the door of the dishwasher. Wasn't Doc Mobo though.

It works well, it's on my Mini for years now.

Kees.