mk1-forum.net

How does it go? Three steps forward -two step back. A pleasant afternoon fitting instruments, particularly the mechanical temperature gauge, was planned for today. It’s as well to stay alert. Tightening in the adapter for the sender into the head I noticed there was little spanner clearance. Clanging alarm bells. I took a closer look and found the cast iron water pump was kissing the cylinder head.

The head and the block had been heavily reduced to use some 1098 pistons so thing had got a little too intimate. The head had gone on first and the pump later once back from reconditioning. So radiator out ( took 2 minutes thanks to the mods I made) and pump off. Ground a good chamfer on the pump and offered it back up.
Even with a dummy build you can miss stuff. That has possibly saved a failed water pump gasket. I’ll recheck the head nuts too.

D

The replacement head lining arrived a couple of days ago. Now the front frame that belongs to the car is very bent but I had a spare. Or so I thought. After all the fight to get to it behind piles of other stuff it turned out to be a longer one, presumably from an estate. So, it’s back to the original. As mentioned a bit bent.
And stripped it looked no better.
The phrase “if I were you I wouldn’t start from here” but as with the lost traveller - no choice.

Still it turned out fine in the end. I tried it in the min’ and it sits nicely. Just have to make the best of the NC head lining. They don’t curve the stitching towards the side rails. I don’t see how that will work out nicely with out over tensioning the stitching. Might need to get a new needle for the sewing machine.
D

A bit of an experiment this morning. My original rear view mirror was pretty poor. The silvering was mottled and really was a driving hazard. Scabby actually. I searched for replacement glass but found no one to supply it thin enough or cut it to the right size and shape.

I came on plastic mirrors and,yes, I could get it cut correctly and thin enough. Here beside the original.

As you see it comes with a grey backing and I wanted to restore the crackle finish. I was nervous that the backing and crackle paint might react. That turned out not to be a problem.




I like to keep a slight patina. The crackle has not developed that well but it’s OK. THE ISSUE is distortion.


Initially I thought this was owing to over tightening the clamp, however that made no difference. I think the heat used for crackling was too much for the Perspex this mirror is made of. It’s not that bad but could annoy and potentially be unsafe.

The mirror before all this was really great. You can get polycarbonate mirrors that may be more heat stable but I think the best solution would be to find a cooler way to crackle than using a heat gun. Or just spray the back matt black and not fuss too much.

The more mistakes you make the more you learn. For those interested in experimentation the plastic mirror came from Simply Plastics Ltd in Colchester.

D

Maybe crackle paint a thin steel/aluminium backing and bond it to the mirror?

Thats a good bit of tin bashing you've done on the headlining frame Dave. I'm just about to embark on something similar. Anything we ought to know? It looks a bit like one of those puzzles where when you jiggle one bit, another bit distorts....... So you just seem to follow the faults around the block

hi d
years ago when i worked in a cabinet making firm we made a custom wardrobe for a client which she wanted full length mirrors on the outside of the doors because of the size and weight of the doors we put plastic mirrors on them but when she inspected the finished job it was like the funny mirror side show so we had to replace them with proper mirrors and lots more hinges to carry the weight then she was happy
cheers roger

Peter Laidler wrote: ↑Tue Mar 09, 2021 10:33 pm Thats a good bit of tin bashing you've done on the headlining frame Dave. I'm just about to embark on something similar. Anything we ought to know? It looks a bit like one of those puzzles where when you jiggle one bit, another bit distorts....... So you just seem to follow the faults around the block

I started with the smallest bends first, straighten the sides. To start with it accentuates the problem but as you work through the larger and larger bends it all started to fall back into shape. Pay particular attention to the central upright at the front (or back which ever). It controls how far forward the frame can go and also the width and shape of the curve at the front.

It’s worth putting a lay of masking tape on the fitting surface of the can’t rail and trying it in until you have the front shape right. When it’s covered I used WD40 as a lubricant to help it slide nicely into place. It wipes up cleanly.

D

Following complaint that I hadn’t posted enough recently here is a bit more. NC seats arrived yesterday and together with some belts I had refurbished were installed this morning. Tyres and new wheels are at the fitters today along with my work day car which expired on their forecourt. No joy at all from the starter I will be taking a reliable Mini out of hibernation for the next few days. Can’t be doing with all this new fangled stuff where you have to take half the car apart to do anything. Rant over!


D

Looking good!

Seats look ace. How different are they to the rare factory ones? Much heavier?

docka wrote: ↑Thu Mar 11, 2021 5:45 pm Looking good!

Seats look ace. How different are they to the rare factory ones? Much heavier?

I don’t know about the weight but the top of the back rest is flatter than the originals. Why they couldn’t get that right I just don’t understand. The fluting is a bit different too. Comfy and supportive though. I thought about something a bit more period after market but by the time you get something like that reupholstered and covered you are talking a fair bit of cash. I just chickened out!

D

Yeah you’d think they’d try and match the originals as closely as poss!

Love the attention to detail in the cockpit, superb!

This will give an absolutely stunning car when finished!

Keep on with the good work!

Very generous comments. Thank you.

D

Wheelwright day today. A case of off with the old.
And on with the new.
Just now I have borrowed some bumpers, however -

To re- or not re- chrome? That is the question.
There are a few dings and the other has a pair of holes ripped in it for some lamps. They are very solid but Oh the cost of re-chroming. I’ve used Derby plating before and their work is great but..... Has anyone else a favourite rechroming outfit that are perhaps more acceptably priced?

D

ACF Howell in Walsall is cheapest I found, can’t remember price of over riders but bumpers were £125 + vat, will get mine done when the dreaded lockdown has finished,

I was quoted £150 + VAT and carriage from Howells back in January for a bumper.

Waiting for the grille slats to be returned from them, hopefully any time now.

It was last summer I asked, so have gone up a little, but I have heard good reviews from them it’s always worth saving good 5 bolt bumpers. Nothing fits as well or looks as good in my opinion.

hi d
the big cost with chrome is the stripping and prep work that needs to be done which is usually reflected in he price plus you need to take into account of shipping to any distant place plus loss or damage so all this needs to be worked out
well cheers roger

One of my least favourite jobs in servicing a mini is bleeding the clutch. The tie bar is in the way and the area is a mess of hoses and brackets especially if there is a servo fitted. I thought to make it easy peasy.
D

Great idea, you need to market them!