mk1-forum.net

That clutch pipe bleed extension is brilliant. My next job! Must admit I have used flexible pipes on servos to save hassle but bleeding the clutch is a real pain.

hanlminiman wrote: ↑Sun Jan 09, 2022 7:54 pm That clutch pipe bleed extension is brilliant. My next job! Must admit I have used flexible pipes on servos to save hassle but bleeding the clutch is a real pain.

Really great idea - though I would route the pipe such that the bleed nipple is above the slave cyl.This makes bleeding easier, due to the bad habbit of air to stay in high spots.

Apart from that - awesome work @Doc

MiNiKiN wrote: ↑Tue Jan 11, 2022 4:23 pm Really great idea - though I would route the pipe such that the bleed nipple is above the slave cyl.This makes bleeding easier, due to the bad habbit of air to stay in high spots.

Apart from that - awesome work @Doc

I was thinking the same Marcus! Brilliant as ever though Doc.

Re the two above replies. Don't bother complicating things chaps. I've had this modification done exactly as shown by David and the good Doc Mabo for a year or so now. Trouble free bleeding on completion and once since

As a lover of mechanical analogue solutions, a classic carburettor system always makes my heart beat faster. That's why I enjoy the assembly of the twin H4 system all the more. After the housings and all the small parts, washers and levers have been cleaned, refurbished and zinc plated, the installation is more or less the highlight of the overhaul.

The system was previously mounted on a racing engine. For road use, I first had to fit a choke again. Typically, the choke works on both carbs. But finding suitable linkages for the H4 carburettors and then placing them in such a way that they have enough room to move is not easy on a left-hand drive Mini. In addition, the mechanical forces are so high with all the levers and springs that you can hardly operate the choke cable. That's why many have only one carb equipped with a choke lever, which is supposed to work without any problems. Again, something I will try out in practice.

The challenge with this combination is that you need two right AUC4814 float chambers with a 30° angle. I am already very happy to have at least one of these float chambers, so I mounted it between the two carbs. The second one, sitting on the outside, only has a 20° angle, but should work just as well. Maybe someone else has a rh side 30° float chamber for me. I am open for all offers .


Ready for installation

Hej Doc!

"Sehr schön" how you did your Carbs!

I looked today at the workshop, but the float bowls laying allround where not the right ones...

Can i ask you what's the T- Connection in the middle of the manifold?

Fanfaniracing wrote: ↑Mon Jan 17, 2022 9:29 pm Hej Doc!

"Sehr schön" how you did your Carbs!

I looked today at the workshop, but the float bowls laying allround where not the right ones...

Can i ask you what's the T- Connection in the middle of the manifold?

I always clean my carbs with a special metal cleaner. Its called "AL80" and its from the same manufacurer as the tank coating. This is the link to the german page:

http://shop.tanksiegel.de/Tankversiegel ... :1405.html

It is a salt that is dissolved in hot water. Aluminium parts then bathe in it for about 20 minutes. This removes all impurities from the last decades. In combination with an ultrasonic bath, it is supposed to work even better. But I don't have such an ultrasonic bath

Thanks for searching for the float chamber.

The T-connector is for the engine breather hoses.

Have you got a PCV going in between the T piece and the breathers? Otherwise that’s a huge amount of unmetered air that’s not going through the throttle bodies?

I don’t suppose you would use another 20 degree bowl so they match?

I have just been having a catch up on the Doc's thread & as always i am stunned by the quality of his work. Not only does he come up with some wonderful elegant solutions that we all have just lived with, but the quality of his work is ALWAYS outstanding!

It is a pleasure to see this wonderful car coming together.

Hopefully, I will see it in the flesh one day!

Thank you for sharing & giving us all a little inspiration Doc.

M

+1 to Mk1's comment above

Usually one say: The sky is the limit. And since limits have to be checked regularly, it is now time for the sky.

I had already modified the headlining frames so that they fit neatly into the new roof shape. At the front I only had to shorten the sides a bit, the rear I had to adjust considerably more until it matched with the rear window. While doing that I made sure that I could still use the original headlining.
Now the frames get their new dress. And indeed, everything worked out as I had thought it would in theory.

WOW! Very well done!

Your attention to detail is just incredible!

Absolutely fantastic and a credit to you for such a unique project, I have enjoyed the updates on this and found the whole thing an eye opener of what can be achieved by someone at home when they have the drive to do it, I have also learnt a lot from following, so thank you for that and look forward to the finished article

Most people struggle to put a standard head lining in. You have modified one & made it look easier than standard

It looks great!

hi doc
i have never seen that head lining system we only have the one with the bows which i hear a pain in the you know what that idea would be great if i could get one for the clubman but how does it fit in
cheers roger

Such care and quality in this build beyond compare.

I was able to use the surplus material from the rear headliner to cover the C-pillars. First I made a template from normal cardboard, then I cut out the final support plate from 1.5 mm thick cardboard. Then I covered it with the crackle material and inserted the cover.

Very well made! Keep me motivated to keep on going with my resto.

With every restoration, there comes a moment when all the nice and pleasant work is done and you have to devote yourself to the work that you really don't want to do.
For me, this definitely includes wiring up all the instruments from the dashboard. But at some point I had to jump into the deep end. Once you have a plan and a structured approach, it's not so bad afterwards.


And while we're on the subject of plans, the best time to draw up a precise wiring diagram for your vehicle is when you've just pulled the cable(s).


And in the end, it’s a fantastic feeling when everything works as planned.

Very nice Doc!
A good preparation is always the key to good results!

Well done