mk1-forum.net

Because we're just getting into the details, here are a few more.

I had already reported that a twin H4 cab is supposed to provide the fuel supply to the engine. On a left-hand drive Mini, however, the brake master cylinder and the float chamber of the left carburettor fight for the same space in the engine compartment. The float chamber is the smarter one and therefore moves to the other side of the carburettor . The carburettors should be protected as well as possible from the heat from the LCB manifold. A heat shield for twin H4 as left-hand drive is not available. So I converted and adapted an old heat shield for twin HS2. I simply flipped one side around, but had to cut off the actual plate and weld it back up side down. You can still see the weld. I also had to shorten both upper edges to gain excess to the manifold bolts later.


When I upgraded the front brakes, I ground the ball joints into their union nuts with valve grinding paste before mounting them. Although they are NOS ball joints, which are said to be of very good quality, the contact surface of ball stud and nut does not wear flat. It is advisable to adjust both items to each other beforehand. This way, wear can be noticeably reduced.


And now a few small modifications in the engine compartment. I have always wondered why there is no service cutout in the left-hand inner wing panel to get excess from the wheel housing to the connection of the brake hose, like on the radiator side. So I cut an opening there. The larger hole just above it is for changing the clutch while the engine is installed. It is in line with the crankshaft, so you can get to the clutch puller from the wheel housing with an extension and work with a large lever arm. Even though it's very unlikely that I'll ever need it on the Broadspeed, it's like having an umbrella with you just in case.

That's how it should be done!
I always grind the ball joints in. If you want to have it perfect you can get the Pin's hard chromed. This way they will almost last forever

Same here FanFan and Doc. I ALWAYS seat the ball in the cup with paste. Just test them with engineers blue and you'll see that the supposed full radial mating surfaces never mate fully. I always grind a shallow path for the grease to get into/between the cup and ball too

We continue with a few ordinary tasks. But when assembling, the joy of each individual piece of the puzzle is particularly great.

The overhauled disc brake system can now also take its place. Good old NOS brake discs harmonise especially well with Mintex brake pads. The old Lockheed brake calipers got new VA-pistons and adjustable GAZ dampers provide good cornering.


The mounting of the radiator grille with its sheet metal screws has never been designed for longevity. As often as the grille is removed and refitted over the years, it cries out for optimisation. Self-locking anchor nuts are a good solution, especially if there are additional headlights hanging in the grille.


The tank is now finally in place and can look forward to its first fuel. The space to the loudspeaker is tight, but it just fits.


The carpet has been put in for the first test fitting and the matching sound insulation to the engine compartment also fits well.

You are really flying along now!

Great progress.

Peter Laidler wrote: ↑Sun Dec 05, 2021 4:20 pm Same here FanFan and Doc. I always grind a shallow path for the grease to get into/between the cup and ball too

Interesting, can you elaborate please Peter ?

Exminiman wrote: ↑Mon Dec 13, 2021 8:57 am Interesting, can you elaborate please Peter ?

You can see the small "shallow path" on the ball part of this photo. Some manufacurer leave it away during production, or it is not big enough. So you can use a grinder to install it or make it bigger. Without this path no grease can come out of the ball joint while servicing. Usually its even unpossible to press the handle of the grease gun.

Hi ExMiniMan, it was a short piece in the MINI RELATED HOW-TO part a couple of years ago titled 'how to look after your balls'. As the good Doc says, without a small pathway, you can grease your balls until the cows come home - or until you can't squeeze the grease gun handle, but it ain't goin' nowhere

For the quietest possible passenger compartment, I wanted to close the speedometer cutout to the engine bay with the cover plate of the Minis from the 80s. However, the recess for the carburetor and the radio in the dashboard of the original plate does not fit together in terms of space. So I rebuilt the plate, but without the recess. A thin line of body plasticine provides the seal.


Before I install the dashboard, I tested it by putting it together completely.

That Dashboard isch really a beautiful piece of Art!

What's the Radio you have here?

Fanfaniracing wrote: ↑Sun Dec 26, 2021 11:02 am What's the Radio you have here?

Its an old BECKER MONZA CASETTE. Its one of only a few 60th Becker top class radios with tape and stereo sound.

Whats to to the left of the speedo?
Doesnt look like a gauge, so.. perhaps a Smith's oilcheck?

Mini Mad Swede wrote: ↑Mon Dec 27, 2021 3:59 pm Doesnt look like a gauge, so.. perhaps a Smith's oilcheck?

Correct

It's wedding day!
After more than 30 years of being unpowered, the bodywork is getting an engine again for the first time. I received active support and helping hands from the next generation.

As is so often the case, timing is particularly important when merging engine and body. What can be mounted in the engine bay and on the engine beforehand and what should rather be mounted after the wedding. I mounted the engine with the radiator pre-installed. This restricts the room to move, but putting the radiator and fan in between the radiator frame and the engine later is a pain.

An old ice box is used to protect the freshly painted engine bay. It is nice and thin, but the plastic coating makes any contact slide off well. This is especially helpful with a gearbox that has to be swiveled into the subframe.

Well Done!
This step makes the build going forward

well done doc that looks great i am afraid that i will have to assemble my power plant in the engine bay as it is awkward to do in 1 piece
as the gear shift points at the drive side of the car and is fairly long but i will get there one day
just having trouble getting some 1800 gearbox parts
cheers roger

Looks fantastic, a real credit to you, love that bodywork is gas welded, just makes it feel even more “Artisan”…..

Nice idea with the ice cream packaging, not sure how the ice cream name would go down with the Woke/ PC police here though

The actual completion of the engine in the Broadspeed is, in my opinion, not so extraordinary that I have to show it in detail here. The more parts are installed, the less space there is for working. But that’s nothing new. Unfortunately, this also restricts service work. This particularly includes working on the clutch. As reported earlier, I have already repositioned the brake servo slightly. But if you have to bleed the clutch, it's hard to get at the bleed screw. You can either see it or feel it, especially with twin carbs. And if you want to bleed the brake fluid in a controlled way, you have to have very flexible fingers. That's why I used an additional brake pipe to make the bleed screw easily accessible on the clutch housing. For once, however, the idea for this did not originate in my head. I recently saw it here in the MK1 forum and was thrilled. Unfortunately I can't remember from whom it is


Let’s continue under the Broadspeed. I also attached the electric fuel pump to the subframe, as the boot is not so easily accessible in the Broadspeed. However, I have installed a Hardi fuel pump, which is built like the SU pump, but works contactless and is supposed to be more reliable. We will see. To protect it from vibrations I have mounted it in rubber bolts.
If you are wondering about the little downward swing in the brake lines just before the connection to the hose, this loop allows me to get to the inner nut of the radius arm without damaging or bending the brake line.


And then the exhaust finally got into place. It took me a while until everything fitted without tension. It was important for me to have as much ground clearance as possible but with enough flexibility to all other parts. And this is how my signature between the exhaust pipes looks like.

Very very nice work!

The topic you meant was this i think: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=25822&p=272982&hili ... ng#p272982

I used this technique for years now on my minis as it makes bleeding really easy. Especially on Mpi Cars...

Like that Double ended Exhaust Pipes

That's the one FanFan and Doc Mabo, originally devised by David Dyson of this very Forum! That and a radiator drain tap are very probably the best modifications that I've ever done to my mini.

So much so, that with Davids blessing I've written this little clutch slave cylinder bleed valve modification up for our colleagues in the MCR Cooperworld.

Don't forget Herr Doktor Mabo, while you still have the room and space available, to extend or raise the hexagonal head of the REAR clutch slave cylinder bolt by 18mm or so that it remains easily accessible when the remaining engine bay parts.