mk1-forum.net

Hi Andrew,

oh yes you have totally right and this forum , your project and the other give me the necessary bravery to accomplish my project but for moment I have to finish a 1275 red sprite for a member of my family... why I tell him "yes".... Haha

Peter Laidler wrote:Andy, surely that plinth rectification or retro-modification deserves a small tech article in its own right. To be honest, I've never even noticed the difference before I read it here and made a couple of comments. But MUST be worth a separate write-up for other restorers......... when you've got time!

Peter, we should have tech bulletin on modifying the front end panel...….I have done a few...a big job if you want to get to original MK 1 specs.
The plinths are a only one part of it.....but demand a lot of precision cutting and welding.

Haven't found any decent reproduction plinths....they need quite a bit of sorting....I have always used old MK1 panels for the plinths....

My advice to those who want to replace the front panel....use the heritage panel as a starter...

The thread for my ‘67 has a bit of information on what needs changing on a new front panel depending on how in-depth you want to go with it.

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=12654&start=40

Interesting post Tupers..

I changed the complete slam panel to one I took from a Mk1 front panel. Quite easy to drill out the spot welds that hold it to the main pressing and then use the two buffer holes to line it up.

The front and wings are now fully welded on including the often missed reinforcing plates to stiffen up the wing/Front panel and wing/A-panel joints. Thanks to Ian for the loan of the spot weld arms

Now going through my snagging list of odds and sods jobs before I start on body prep.

A recently acquired consignment of NOS 60's to early 80's Ford parts is having a slight impact on the time spent on the car

Hi Andrew, is this car SORN or doesn't it need to be if last taxed pre 1998?

Hi Richard,

It’s classed as untaxed as hasn’t been taxed since ‘73.

I think it shows Historic on the V5c because it has been put ‘back on’ the computer when re-registering.

Another job to do if using the MiniMachine full floor is to drill the holes for the remote gear lever bracket.

To do this is simple - fit the front subframe, then fit a bare gearbox casing with flywheel housing etc to the subframe. Then add the remote housing with the bracket bolted to it. This then positions the bracket correctly. Make and drill the holes .

Whilst doing this, fit the gear lever and then the gaiter and retaining plate so the four holes can be drilled. Much better to do this in 'black build' than once all painted.

Andrew, I recall reading somewhere, I cannot recall where, that said you mark the centres of the holes per your method and then move them forward by 1/8 inch to preload the rear mount rubber.

I did this on the three 850s I converted to remotes and the remotes were the same 'feel' to install as the factory ones, as in you had to push back on the remote housing to get the 4 bolts to start in the transmission housing.

Simon, that's interesting and probably explains why there is a washer fitted in between the mounting and the bracket that looks like it has been there from new.

Will check this before taking it all apart...

I've just drilled mine.
You are limited where you can drill the rear bolt as it almost up to the crossmember....but I think the bracket has some adjustment.

That is true Nick. When I lined it all up I thought one of the holes would end up being inside the crossmember but after measuring them up it was as per normal with the front bolts quite close to the box, requiring 'D' shaped flat washers to be made, as per factory ones I've seen.

Don't forget to cut the slots in the crossmember for the bolt heads (front ones). Look at the original floor if you still have it. A very sharp and small wood chisel is ideal.

Yep, I’ve had the heads up on that one and will be sorted soon

Received these this week....restored original Hills backing plates with NOS digits.

Many thanks to James

Andrew1967 wrote:Received these this week....restored original Hills backing plates with NOS digits.

Many thanks to James

Always a nice touch.

D

To me, seeing all of the little bits finished and then assembled into small sub assemblies and then big sub assemblies was always a big boost to my morale and spurred me on. Great progress Andy. In fact I'm sharing your progress/thread with our little team of classic car fiends in the village

Lots of distractions have slowed HOY's progress somewhat but the pre-body prep snagging list is almost complete.

Things like filing the headlamp bowl holes square for the plastic speed fasteners, fitting the FE & F plates, welding up not needed holes and drilling new ones and generally tidying up.

Just finished trial fitting the Minispares hydro pipes, which are not a bad fit and are the correct length (well mine were anyway). A bit of tweaking here and there is required but, as said on another thread, bending these pipes accurately first time is NOT easy if you haven't got the correct tools and experience in pipe bending. They ain't 3/16 brake pipes !!

Whilst doing the pipe fitting, I had to move the multi finger tabs on the front of the MiniMachine floor inwards to the tunnel and also the heel board tabs. The heelboard bends are where the MiniSpares hydro pipes differ the most.

Also trial fitted the front screen on Dad's suggestion and glad I did as I have had to ease a couple of corners. The screen seal did not fit right and was worse with the filler trim added. Having filed some away, it all seems much better now.

So, not far off now final weld finishing back and stripping the paint off the wings etc ready for the 2 pack epoxy primer.

Heelboard tabs moved - maybe not quite correct but done to suit pipes ...

After you've filed out the headlight screw holes square for the plastic inserts, don't forget to do the same for the grille too. The little plastic square thinggies JUST keep the grille an unnoticeable 1mm or so away from the body. I can't think of any other ideal uses or places for the plastic inserts but there's bound to be lots more. I think that I used them on the indicator lights too.

Great progress and good to see. I need to see your HOY and Daz's Mk2 Cooper as my weekly 'fix'

And while we're here, a note for Mrs Andy. Please make sure that as soon as he's finished HOY, Andy collates this story and the pictures and all the other odds and sods that he hasn't mentioned and gets it published. It's a fantastic guide for future restorers - and could be lucrative too!

HOY is looking fantastic Andrew! Awesome skills and it will make a stunning S! Keep going and well done!

Tim