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Crack Pot wrote: ↑Sun Dec 08, 2024 4:50 pm Did you say that removing the carb would cause issues that ment the fuel to air mix would need readjusting
I mean it it sparks fine (when I go up there to have a look) then what next
I mean should I remove the carb or dist first there on after (presuming that the sparks are ok sparking)?
Or is there anything ells failing the carb and dist that could likely be the cause?

There's not a lot I can add.

You're repeatedly asking about removing the distributor. Don't do this unless you want to also learn how to set the timing. See Haynes.

You can remove the carb without changing its settings. But you will risk introducing air leaks where the carb seals to the manifold.

The most likely causes of an engine not running at all - assuming no-one has disturbed the carb or distributor - are (a) no fuel getting to the carb or (b) no spark. Before you do anything else you need to be 100% certain you have fuel being pumped to the carb and a good spark at all four plugs. The tests for these are easy and quick but they are much easier with a helper.

A dirty carb could, feasibly, prevent the car from firing at all. But usually it just runs badly. If your problem is (as title) "running rough" then carb is a good candidate. If it's not running at all then carb stays on the leader-board but not at the top.

MagicWandWoody wrote: ↑Sun Dec 08, 2024 5:27 pm You can remove the carb without changing its settings. But you will risk introducing air leaks where the carb seals to the manifold.

I guess if the gasket is well worn (when removing). Then putting it back on when refitting the carb is a bad idea?
Can I get away with using some kind of petrol friendly silicone sealant for this?

MagicWandWoody wrote: ↑Sun Dec 08, 2024 5:27 pm The most likely causes of an engine not running at all - assuming no-one has disturbed the carb or distributor - are (a) no fuel getting to the carb or (b) no spark. Before you do anything else you need to be 100% certain you have fuel being pumped to the carb and a good spark at all four plugs. The tests for these are easy and quick but they are much easier with a helper.

Could I remove the spark plugs from the engine and remove the inlet fuel pipe from the carb, switch the ignition on and crank the engine over bypassing the solenoid and watch for spark and fuel?



Thanks

PS Where do I find out the size of spark plug socket I will need (cant see it in the manual) as the car is 2 miles away from hear

And forgot to mention, ever since I have had the car, the revs went up and down on ideal some of the time. People have always said its a dirty carb you have so was thinking of doing a carb clean at some time

Glad mab01 spotted the incorrect carb diagram, what you are looking at is totally different to what is fitted on your car, which takes me back to one of earlier posts to do with your clutch, I suspect this Metro has had an engine swap at sometime.. The spark plug socket is 21mm. If revs go up and down that is more likely to be fuel related or an air leak from a gasket either between the carb and manifold or the manifold and head and no don’t use silicone sealer, get a new gasket with maybe a very thin coating of Hylomar. I would strongly agree with other comments that you should seek help and guidance from someone who knows what they are doing and doesn’t mind passing on a bit of knowledge to you, ‘cos if you carry on things will only get worse. Don’t forget that most of us on here are somewhere around retirement age and have all been learning for many years, and we’re still learning, sometimes we learn from others and sometimes by trial and error and we have all made mistakes which doesn’t matter as long as you learn from them and don’t make the same ones twice.
Don’t try and do too many things at once, work systematically and remember you only need 3 things:- compression, fuel and spark once you’ve got those 3 you just need to get them to happen at the same time.
I know for a fact that it won’t only be me sitting reading your posts thinking “if I was nearer I’d go and help him”

I went up there and started the engine from the starter solenoid (ignition on, no choke or throttle). But it would appear that the fuel filter has drained its self and lost all of its fuel from yesterday. please see vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcxoxqN ... e=youtu.be

Then the same again but with the spark plugs (seams to spark ok)
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Oqfpy4sCicw

Spark looks good

I've never tested a mechanical Mini fuel pump but that does look a bit feeble to my uneducated eye. It seems to be constantly pumping bubbles as well as fuel, which definitely isn't good.

If those bubbles are a constant feature (rather than just for the first few cranks) then chances are the fuel line is leaking between the tank and the pump, so the pump is sucking in air. If there is a leak it must be at a point higher than the tank. Otherwise your tank would drain onto the floor and you'd already know about the leak.

Modern E5 contains ethanol (most of the older equivalent "Super" didn't contain ethanol) which means your car may be only recently exposed to ethanol and the problems it causes. One of those problems is that it destroys rubber fuel pipe. So check every rubber part of the fuel line.

Another place that air can get in is via the pump itself: its diaphragm can split. This can not only cause fuel starvation but also allow large amounts of fuel to leak into the engine, where it dilutes the oil and causes damage to the engine. So check the oil level: if it's higher than normal or smells of petrol then suspect a split diaphragm.

But as I say - wait for others to comment on how good/bad that pump action is: I don't have the experience to be totally sure it's below par.

As you might imagine, with 3 pages of chatter, there's been a fair bit of PM talk among the forum flock about the non running woes of Crack-Pots car engine.

Here's my suggestion. As car mechanics generally doesn't really seem to be your bag, If I was you Crackpot I'd go to your local college and enroll on one of those beginners courses for home car enthusiasts. It'll give you a good grounding of the basic get-you-going needs you seem to need. And better still, the basic that start with are the mechanical and electrical basics that our older cars come with

Had another look at it again today
Again! no fuel inside of the filter (As it has somehow drained its self over night)
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/tW-qPSHs ... ture=share
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/0I_h3RViPnY

Though it dose run but not well or for long
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/tNmgtBXf ... ture=share

Im begining to think now that I need to have it towed back home, stick it on ebay as spares or repairs

Just had an idea

Did they used to pour petrol directly into the carb before. to get it going but would only run for a few minutes

Crack Pot wrote: ↑Tue Dec 10, 2024 3:51 am Did they used to pour petrol directly into the carb before. to get it going but would only run for a few minutes

Not really a safe idea. And even if it runs, it'll be for seconds, not minutes. Adding fuel direct can be a way to diagnose that the problem is caused by lack of fuel. The safer way to do it is with a brief squirt of EasyStart, instead.

Seems likely that there's only a small fault with your car - a dodgy fuel pump, a broken fuel line, something like that. A typical DIYer will probably have it fixed in half a day for a few quid. So going "Spares or repair" risks under-selling it.

You could do with some on-the-spot help. Metro Owners Club has a group on facebook. 4000 members, 9 admins, and currently active. Worth joining and seeing if someone on there is local to you.

I hate to state the obvious and apologies if I am but are you pulling the choke out when trying to start it, and if you are do you know if it is actually pulling the jet down as it should ?. If the jet is stuck then you won't be getting a rich enough mixture for a cold start especially at this time of year. The video shows that it's trying to start just like it might if the choke wasn't operated or not working properly.

MagicWandWoody wrote: ↑Tue Dec 10, 2024 8:49 am
Seems likely that there's only a small fault with your car - a dodgy fuel pump, a broken fuel line, something like that. A typical DIYer will probably have it fixed in half a day for a few quid. So going "Spares or repair" risks under-selling it.

So if you think its worth doing then, i'll make up a gravity fed fuel tank first, then if still running rough take the carb off
Do you know where you can buy carb seals for something like that?

Thanks

A jury-rigged gravity-feed system comes with risks - fire, spillage, burns. Why risk it when you could instead check the fuel feed and the pump, fixing any faults you find as you go?

Your continued enthusiasm for taking apart the carb feels misplaced - it's a last resort to be undertaken only when you've ruled out everything else and, even then, only when you're confident you can reassemble it and then reset all its fine adjustments.

Seriously: join the Metro group on Facebook. On this forum you're engaging with the Mini specialist fraternity and, within that, the subset of us who are Mini Mk1 owners. Metros aren't really our thing. Whereas if you make yourself known to nearby Metro owners then more than likely some experienced local help will be quickly forthcoming. And that help is likely to arrive with the tools to check timing and the skills to hunt down fuel issues and air leaks.

As mentioned in an earlier post by '111Robin' are you starting the engine with the choke knob fully pulled out and have you checked the choke cable is actually moving/working freely under the bonnet at the carburettor end?
(Note: It is not unusual for people used to starting modern cars, to forget or not know there is such a thing as a choke control needed to start older cars from cold).

Does the engine run better with the choke pulled out?

As your Metro appears to have an earlier 1.3 Mini engine, linked below is a past thread on 'The Mini Forum' with similar issues and various suggestions to try which might also help:-

It Starts, Runs, Then Stops A Few Mins Later:-
https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/t ... ins-later/

And, while we're covering the basics: there is fuel in the tank? (The first question the AA asks at a breakdown.)

MagicWandWoody wrote: ↑Tue Dec 10, 2024 7:39 pm A jury-rigged gravity-feed system comes with risks - fire, spillage, burns. Why risk it when you could instead check the fuel feed and the pump, fixing any faults you find as you go?

Before reading this; last night I decided to rig up a jerry can hocked off of the bonnet with a meter of fuel pipe into the carb. It ran, but sadly it ran like it did before
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/1Q6IO2qr ... ture=share

MagicWandWoody wrote: ↑Tue Dec 10, 2024 7:39 pm Your continued enthusiasm for taking apart the carb feels misplaced - it's a last resort to be undertaken only when you've ruled out everything else and, even then, only when you're confident you can reassemble it and then reset all its fine adjustments.

Again; as i was there I decided (as discussed hear before) the only 2 things it could be now where the carb or the ignition, and given the fact that the ignition required more tools and skill then the carb I decided to remove the carb.

I have attached some photos of the carb while it is off.
1.Dose it look the same of the one in the diagram from the Haynes manual I uploaded on last page. As following the instructions now my be different.
2. Also in the photos there are the red and blue gaskets. Do they need replacing with new ones or do they look OK?
3. Finally the spring dropped off and I dont know where it dropped off from the other end

PS did I mention before somewhere on this thread that my revs used to go up and down on ideal and people said "its the carb!" So hence my enthusiasm to remove and clean it

Thanks

MagicWandWoody wrote: ↑Tue Dec 10, 2024 7:39 pm Seriously: join the Metro group on Facebook. On this forum you're engaging with the Mini specialist fraternity and, within that, the subset of us who are Mini Mk1 owners. Metros aren't really our thing. Whereas if you make yourself known to nearby Metro owners then more than likely some experienced local help will be quickly forthcoming. And that help is likely to arrive with the tools to check timing and the skills to hunt down fuel issues and air leaks.

Not on facebook!

mab01uk wrote: ↑Tue Dec 10, 2024 8:07 pm As mentioned in an earlier post by '111Robin' are you starting the engine with the choke knob fully pulled out and have you checked the choke cable is actually moving/working freely under the bonnet at the carburettor end?
(Note: It is not unusual for people used to starting modern cars, to forget or not know there is such a thing as a choke control needed to start older cars from cold).

I just worked out why you asked that now; Well the carb light on the dash dose not work!
But the best way I have learnt how to start the car is with full choke winter and half choke summer (there abouts). Then crank the engine and if not started in 2-3 cranks use the throttle pedal

MagicWandWoody wrote: ↑Wed Dec 11, 2024 8:21 am And, while we're covering the basics: there is fuel in the tank? (The first question the AA asks at a breakdown.)

Yes

Crack Pot wrote: ↑Wed Dec 11, 2024 12:37 pm I have attached some photos of the carb while it is off.
1.Dose it look the same of the one in the diagram from the Haynes manual I uploaded on last page. As following the instructions now my be different.

As I posted earlier in this thread the image of your carb in the Haynes manual you posted shows a later HIF SU carb which does not have the float chamber on the side but underneath and other differences to what you have.
Looking at your previous photos and photos of your now removed carb you have the earlier HS4 SU carb with float chamber on the side which is quite different and was fitted to Mini engines....so you will therefore need to follow different instructions to those shown in your manual.
As also said before I am no expert on early Metros spec but always thought they had HIF SU carbs and Verto clutches from introduction in 1980, so it maybe that your Austin Metro MK1 1982 1.3L has perhaps had an earlier engine unit fitted from a Mini at some point in its past.

mab01uk wrote: ↑Wed Dec 11, 2024 1:28 pm , so it maybe that your Austin Metro MK1 1982 1.3L has perhaps had an earlier engine unit fitted from a Mini at some point in its past.

Do you think there will be an engine stamp on it that would tell me more?
Do you think there is a way that I can contact all previous owners of my car somehow?
Thanks