mk1-forum.net

STG95F wrote:Was MK1 Cut out different to MK2 & 3 then ??

it didn't have the two little cut outs in it

Is that all that is different then

Yes only the 2 little cutouts.

so long
the Doc

rich@minispares.com wrote: that COULD have been one of those 'ohhh fuuucccccckkkkkk' moments couldn't it!

Not realy, I will modify the seat mount brackets too

so long
the Doc

Dr.Mabo wrote:Some more modifications of the floor section.

I have seen plenty of terrible cutouts for the remote gearbox. This is the correct shape for MK2 and MK3 Minis.

How did you take measurements to make the hole in the right spot?

I was lucky, I had an early MK3 Mini standing next to it.

I made a template of the cutout and took the measurement for the correct position.

So long
the Doc

After the inner wings were fixed to the body, I put on the front panel and the wings temporary. Due to several unexpected circumstances I had another brake of about 1,5 years before I continued.

Before I could weld on the wings I had to create a custom inlet to route the fresh air heater duct trough the wing. This inlet needs to have the shape of a long triangle to collect the air behind the grill on one end. On the other end it needs a round outlet for the flexible duct. Unfortunately I couldn’t find any existing ducts, which I could modify in the way I need it. Eventually I decided to build it my self. I choose to build it of GRP. I sculptured the shape by crumpled newspaper, some wire mash covered with tape and cling film. Then I laminated the duct around it. Later I removed all the stuff from inside and cut it in the correct lenth. It wasn’t as difficult as I expected.

so long
the Doc

the duct on my 'er' is very similar, all be it made out of metal

great minds think alike - your just 30 years behind the guy who built my car!

rich@minispares.com wrote:the duct on my 'er' is very similar, all be it made out of metal

great minds think alike - your just 30 years behind the guy who built my car!

Only the best ideas will get proved when other clever heads coming to the same independent results

Also for me, metal is my preferred material. But this time I walked down a new lane. And I'm quite satisfied.

So long
the doc

In need of a rust free MK1/2 boot lid I decided to modify a MK3 boot lid with the conversion panel. Unfortunately the conversion panel just covers the middle section. But the seam rust usually is on the full length
That’s why I started with the corners. I cut them away including the lower radius. Then I build my own repair panels for both corners. Not that easy because they are curved 3 dimensionally. After they fitted properly I renewed the inner edges and welded the repair panels on top.

More pics

Then I started with the cutout for the conversion panel. Sadly there was so much filler on the outer skin, I had to remove the whole section under the registration plate.

After a little more welding as I expected, everything was as it should be

So long
the Doc

I think you should have replaced the top part off the boot skin, just so you where sure that it was perfect!


looking good!

As mentioned before the renewed tail was not totally rust free. It is just 20 years younger than the rest of the bodyshell. So I removed the rear valance and the last few centimeters of the boot floor to eliminate all the corrosion in the triple layer seam. Of course some of the remaining metal needs a bit of refreshment

Here we go

And on the other side too.

So long
the Doc

To extend the seat clearance I removed the rear pockets. For a Britax themed Mini the seat belts have to be Britax of course. To install internal reels I build a special mounting bracket for the inner sills.

And that’s the result

so long
the Doc

Dr.Mabo wrote:
As you may notice on the photo I also turned the cross member around. Now the seat mounts are on the rear side.
That gives a comfortable seat position for tall drivers and passengers without those funny extension adapters


so long
the Doc

Depending what seat you will use, you also need to cut the rear bins, as pr Wood & Pickett spec.

Fantastic skills & ideas! I love following this thread.

JC T ONE wrote:
Depending what seat you will use, you also need to cut the rear bins, as pr Wood & Pickett spec.

Unfortunately I don't know how the Wook & Pickett spec rear bins look like.

I also removed the rear bins totally to get better excess to the passenger seats in the rear.

mk1 wrote:Fantastic skills & ideas! I love following this thread.

Thanks Mark for your kind words.

so long
the Doc

Dr.Mabo wrote:
Unfortunately I don't know how the Wook & Pickett spec rear bins look like.

so long
the Doc

Hi Doc,

here is a link to a couple of pics = viewtopic.php?f=5&t=7902&hilit=wood+%26 ... N&start=10

But to be 100% sure, just test fit the seats you will use, then you will see if any work is needed.

Jens Christian