mk1-forum.net

china wrote:There were two types of HRG badges showing different addresses. The badge on your cover is the later of the two. If you check out Mark Fosters web site there is some info listed there, a great place to start your research.

......continuing on.

It seems the HRG plates are not reproduced. there are two types?
At least i cant find any evidence to suggest they are or have been.
If anyone knows differently let me know.
Having said that, I'm investigating getting a small batch (I dont know precisely what a small batch is) remanufactured. Anyone who's chased small run items will be aware the pitfalls but the start point is ......would a proper reproduction maker's plate be of interest to any HRG cover owners to justify a batch?

A show of hands please?

Cheers Michael

mini63 wrote:
It seems the HRG plates are not reproduced

ive had them remade

proper cut alloy plate

correctly screen printed (not just done on a computer!)

holes ready done (note, there is no guarantee that they will line up with an original pair of holes as they are all over on the original covers / plates!)

can supply them with the correct hammer head rivets.



mine are slightly narrower than the originals to try and take into account the variance in the machining that was done on the original covers - depending on how much was taken of the top alters the depth of the badge plinth!

rich@minispares.com wrote:

mini63 wrote:
It seems the HRG plates are not reproduced

ive had them remade

proper cut alloy plate

correctly screen printed (not just done on a computer!)

holes ready done (note, there is no guarantee that they will line up with an original pair of holes as they are all over on the original covers / plates!)

can supply them with the correct hammer head rivets.





mine are slightly narrower than the originals to try and take into account the variance in the machining that was done on the original covers - depending on how much was taken of the top alters the depth of the badge plinth!

Ask....and ye shall be found.

PM sent Rich

Ive now sorted mine out with much thanks to Rich...

that looks great

hard to believe the end result when you look at what you started with!

Well I haven't been on to this thread for a while, and it seems like I've missed quite a few posts! That last resto result looks amazing.

What would the original finish on these have been? The one I have (which I still haven't touched btw) seems to be smooth (matt?) silver, but would probably easily polish up very nicely. With the original plate still in place it is hard to picture it ever having a crackle black finish. I have also seem these polished up a bit but with black detailing between the fins only, which in my eyes at least does look very nice indeed. I want to keep the original plate on and as it is, so any tidy up work will be done around it, which is why I am looking more into a quick polish and maybe painting between the ribs only...

My next question is whether the original filler caps like mine can be taken apart to allow the top chromed surface to be rechromed?? Anybody done this? mine is flaking and has rust coming through as can be seen on the pictures.

Some great posts guys - thanks so much

I would say that originally they where either supplied in raw alloy or crackled and the fins machined back to show the silver

with or without badges on either option as well - obviously the crackle and the badge would add significantly to the final cost

the reason people paint between the fins when they polish them is that its impossible to get into the gaps to polish it, so it always looks darker in the caps

does make them look neat, but its not 'factory'

dinglem wrote:Well I haven't been on to this thread for a while, and it seems like I've missed quite a few posts! That last resto result looks amazing.

What would the original finish on these have been? The one I have (which I still haven't touched btw) seems to be smooth (matt?) silver, but would probably easily polish up very nicely. With the original plate still in place it is hard to picture it ever having a crackle black finish. I have also seem these polished up a bit but with black detailing between the fins only, which in my eyes at least does look very nice indeed. I want to keep the original plate on and as it is, so any tidy up work will be done around it, which is why I am looking more into a quick polish and maybe painting between the ribs only...

My next question is whether the original filler caps like mine can be taken apart to allow the top chromed surface to be rechromed?? Anybody done this? mine is flaking and has rust coming through as can be seen on the pictures.

Some great posts guys - thanks so much

I took apart my cap and had it re-chromed with great results.

I guess it could prove tricky to crackle black it without removing the original plate (which I don't want to do)?

OK - good to know that the caps come apart! Thanks for that.

I've just sent pics of polished and crackle black versions to the wife to let her decide; it is her car at the end of the day(!)

The badges are REALLY REALLY easy to remove. Find a small thin object (preferably a tiny drift) and you can punch the hammer drive screws out from the inside of the rocker cover.

mk1 wrote:The badges are REALLY REALLY easy to remove. Find a small thin object (preferably a tiny drift) and you can punch the hammer drive screws out from the inside of the rocker cover.

Just feels like a shame to remove it somehow, although if it can be reinstated as is then it's a possibility.

dinglem wrote:

mk1 wrote:The badges are REALLY REALLY easy to remove. Find a small thin object (preferably a tiny drift) and you can punch the hammer drive screws out from the inside of the rocker cover.

Just feels like a shame to remove it somehow, although if it can be reinstated as is then it's a possibility.

trouble is, a lot of them are not drilled right through...........................

So what about surface prep work prior to adding the crackle black paint?

Crackle Black sticks like the proverbial Brown Waste to a hospital blanket.

Very little need for much prep at all, make sure its grease free & a quick rub over with either coarse wire wood or 120 grade grit will be more than enough.

Awesome - thanks!

dinglem wrote:So what about surface prep work prior to adding the crackle black paint?

temperature is the key! even warmth and a good rub down with prepsol and a scourer before hand.