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After modifying the fuel filler neck, the standard tank sealant had to be applied, as I had already done on my previous restorations. So far, I have always been very satisfied with the tank sealant from Ammon CREEM ROT. I first sealed my first tanks with CREEM ROT a good 17 years ago. The Minis equipped with the tanks are still in my possession. The sealant has so far shown no signs of decay or damage. So I have used it again for the Broadspeed tank.

In the first task the tank has to be degreased and in the second it has to be derusted. For both tasks there is a granulate which is mixed with water. The lye must then be left to soak for 20-30 minutes at a temperature of about 65°C. Since the mini-tank can't be filled to the top like on a motorbike, I had to do each task in several stages or positions to get all the corners in the end. That took me almost a day. To maintain the temperature, the manufacturer recommends an immersion heater (for motorbike tanks) I decided to use the gas grill . After the degreasing and derusting, the tank has to dry completely from the inside. Two days later I did the coating. With my very first coating, I painstakingly covered the small filter with a plastic bag. I must have been lucky that this worked once. After that, I never managed it again . But it works without it, as long as you only fill in a little more sealant than you really need. By swivelling, you let the sealant run into all the corners. With a little care, only the lower edge of the filter gets some sealant. However, this does not harm the subsequent fuel supply at all. Afterwards, excess sealant is sucked off with the syringe and the tank can dry for a few days

Super progress again, I look forward to the Sunday updates

Honestly, this guy.

I hope many of you will be able to enjoy Cooper Day today in the most beautiful weather. I would have loved to be there, I had tickets, but the pandemic travel restrictions made it impossible to attend. I envy you.
But at least I can do my regular Sunday update.

Many people have certainly already made the experience that it makes sense to test and adjust as many parts as possible before painting. For me, this is also the moment to optimise things or positions.
Since EOP 89D (the white Broadspeed GT) was equipped with the luxury of a radio, mine will of course also be fitted with a contemporary in-car entertainment system. Contemporary also means with an original rod aerial. It can be moved in and out with an electric motor. And since these parts were all somewhat larger in the past, they have to have enough space and be fixed in place. After fitting the antenna exactly, I made a bracket to stabilize the motor in the wheel well.


Now I had already taken the trouble to banish the fresh air supply duct for the heater from the engine bay, there is also something to optimise about the position of the brake servo. In the original version, it is attached to the inner wing with two rather large brackets. I've always wondered why it can't be moved up and back a few centimeters. There is the crossmember support bracket anyway, on which it can be mounted just as well. If you then bring the cylinder part even closer to the inner wing, you have created so much space that you can even change the clutch without removing the servo. Meanwhile, this is the third time I have made this modification.

And on we go with the modifications and fitting. In the Broadspeed, the seating position is a little lower and a little further back. At least for my height . I had already created the space for this. On the one hand by putting the side pockets back, but also by turning the crossmember around. So first I had to find the right position for the seat and then build the right console. And that's how you get from wooden boards to the basic frame to the finished seat console with runners .


It's also very convenient to make and fit all the pipes running under the shell while you can still lay the unpainted body on its side. Then it's just plug and play later.

I've just read all 35 pages of this thread in one go. To say I'm amazed is a total understatement, such skill and perfectionism, this is going to be an amazing finished car. Not sure if I've missed it but what is the finished colour scheme and wheel decision?

Thanks for your interest and reading the full thread in one go

You can see the final colour scheme including wheels in the very first post of this thread and in my avatar So it will be Surf Blue with a white stripe and rose petal wheels

The photo in the first post is my motivation pic created in Photoshop. The avatar is a vectorgrafic which I used for the roof buck.

Ooh I do like a surf blue mini.

The next step are the brake lines in the engine bay. Everything can be fitted in peace and quiet so that it can be installed directly after painting.


And the icing on the cake is, of course, clean and rust-free screws.
I'm not a fan of all those screws that have to be bought new. Firstly, they add up to a lot of money and secondly, they always differ in detail from the original. As long as it's only optical, everyone can decide for themselves. But it's stupid if it also affects the function, then it gets difficult. For this reason, I always try to use the old original parts. If you have them zinc plated, they usually come back in mint condition. It's a pleasure every time, but the result also depends on the preparation. And in order to be able to identify all the parts afterwards, it makes the work easier to label and photograph them beforehand.

Dr.Mabo wrote: ↑Sun Jun 27, 2021 1:07 pm And the icing on the cake is, of course, clean and rust-free screws.
I'm not a fan of all those screws that have to be bought new. Firstly, they add up to a lot of money and secondly, they always differ in detail from the original. As long as it's only optical, everyone can decide for themselves. But it's stupid if it also affects the function, then it gets difficult. For this reason, I always try to use the old original parts. If you have them zinc plated, they usually come back in mint condition. It's a pleasure every time, but the result also depends on the preparation. And in order to be able to identify all the parts afterwards, it makes the work easier to label and photograph them beforehand.

Very good approach, I fully support. I prefer the "use original fasteners" too and spent many hours cleaning in preparation to blackening or zinc-plating.

To my own surprise, there was also some sheet metal work to be done on the technical side. But once you have warmed up to the material, you can always think of more things that can be done with sheet metal.

The Broadspeed will, of course, be fitted with an appropriately powerful engine. It is also important to me that the tuning is contemporary and fits the vehicle. Therefore I decided to use a pair of H4 carburetors, just like the original Broadspeed EOP88D uses. However, for a left-hand drive car, the carburetor choice presents a few additional challenges. Besides the lack of space to the master cylinder, air filters have to be accommodated in a very confined space. After a lot of research, I decided on a pair of conical K&N filters. However, in order to be able to fit them, you need a mounting plate with the right diameter. Others have used a lathe to manufacture a suitably shaped flange out of plastic, but for me it was the sheet metal again that came into play. The following pictures show how I did it.

hi doc
that is a very neat set up that you have made it looks great
good work cheers roger mcnab

Outstanding as ever Doc!

Datsun stacks ?

Do you have enough clearance between the ram pipes and the air filter ?
I believe 1.5 the diameter of the carb/choke tube is the correct minimum
You are doing a superb job Doc
Respect

jay weinstein wrote: ↑Sun Jul 04, 2021 9:55 pm Datsun stacks ?

Sorry, I don't know. They came with the carbs.

JohnA wrote: ↑Sun Jul 04, 2021 9:56 pm Do you have enough clearance between the ram pipes and the air filter ?

I would say there is enough clearance. Ram pipe inlet to filter cover is about 4 cm. It's defenately more than I thought.

Clever solution to fit the filters that looks good to
Might have to copy that!
Never understood those who drive without filters, no matter what the use is.

(heard it was minimum carb diameter to back wall of filter, maybe depends on use such as full-race mode or roadcar..?)

You can make life easier for yourself with the mini technology in many places if you make a few small modifications in the appropriate places. The hockey sticks of the MK1 grille are originally riveted to the mask. Apart from the fact that the aluminium rivets usually used lie wonderfully in the splash area of the front wheels and have the best corrosion conditions in combination with water and steel, you also have to drill them out if you ever want to remove them. If you cut a small plate and weld or solder a thread onto it, you can push these plates into the hockey sticks and fasten them to the front mask with nuts. Put a dab of Mike Sander's anti-corrosion grease between them and you'll have no corrosion for a long time.


To bolt of the engine rubber mounts to the front subframe are also an eternal struggle. These should be inserted from above, i.e. from the engine side, and then screwed on with nuts. Everyone has probably cursed the designer who came up with this. There are already engine rubber mounts with welded-on nuts available for purchase, where the bolts are inserted from below. Here, however, there is a danger that if the lock ring under the bolt's head does not do its job absolutely perfectly, the bolts will come loose and fall out downwards over time.
As an alternative, I riveted self-locking nuts to the engine rubber mounts. With their selfclamping value in the upper part of the thread, they ensure that even the bolt inserted from below cannot come loose. If the clamping effect wears off after the umpteenth engine change, the rivets can be drilled out and the nuts can be excanged.

Stunning work on this whole project .. really though why does everyone struggle with fitting engine mounts?

Offside in first, used a flat blade screwdriver to jiggle around until full hole was aligned then fitted the bolt into a ring spanner with a little bit of cling film around the nut head to make it stick in there until I'd manoeuvred the bolt in and tightened the nut.

Used the minispares mounts without any welded on nuts.

Absolutely no delay whatsoever in getting these fitted.

ads7 wrote: ↑Wed Jul 14, 2021 10:25 am Stunning work on this whole project .. really though why does everyone struggle with fitting engine mounts?

Offside in first, used a flat blade screwdriver to jiggle around until full hole was aligned then fitted the bolt into a ring spanner with a little bit of cling film around the nut head to make it stick in there until I'd manoeuvred the bolt in and tightened the nut.

Used the minispares mounts without any welded on nuts.

Absolutely no delay whatsoever in getting these fitted.

I bought Minispares captive ones. I assumed that they’d just fit, but when struggling to bolt the engine in I discovered that the holes didn’t line up with the subframe.. now I check that first