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Having been distracted by the red and white object that shares workshop space with the 997, I tried to tie down a few more bits on the engine. I was waiting for the flywheel assembly to come back balanced from Southam. They turned it round pretty smartish. Good bunch. That’s all sorted. I now have an engine that looks a little more purposeful (save the water pump which is away for reconditioning). The grey oil pipe is not staying, there’s a 10 row oil cooler waiting in the wings.

On the water pump front. Although this is an early small bore engine I tried in a deep vane cast pump. It just fouled on the cylinder jacket. I put a bevel on the edge of the rotor and it cleared without a gasket in place. I’m tempted to fit it but just wonder if I might loose clearance as the cylinders heat up. Thoughts anyone? What sort of clearance is there on the big bore engines?

Then there is the matter of the scabby carbs. Well not that bad just needing a good sort out and replacing all the rubbers with ethanol proof modern kit. I think I’m right that these are Special Tuning issue H4s but I’m sure that will be confirmed or condemned by this body of knowledgable folk.
Tioraidh

D

Its what Burlen list

http://sucarb.co.uk/carbspec/carburetto ... s/id/1725/

hi d
makea spacer out of alloy to step the pump out for clearence and use a gasket each side and all good
cheers roger mcnab

Hi Roger,

Not a bad idea, it need not be thick. Perhaps copper would be best. It would not be prone to corrosion. While I have the 1275 engine on its stand I could do some measuring and compare with the small bore.

D

Don't forget that if you space the pump out from the block it will move the pulley outwards too. You would then have to make sure the crank and alternator/dynamo pulleys are in line with it,

JR

jayare wrote: ↑Thu May 28, 2020 3:23 pm Don't forget that if you space the pump out from the block it will move the pulley outwards too. You would then have to make sure the crank and alternator/dynamo pulleys are in line with it,

JR

For the happy clearance needed we are probably only talking 80 to 100 thou (20 gauge shim and a gasket). Not enough to worry about in terms of misalignment. Anyway, I find there are no true clearance issues. The binding was a lateral interference because I didn’t have the dowels in place.

D

Back to the 997 project. Where did that two months go?

Having been brought to a soggy halt too many times in minis owing to the fuel pump being drowned in road spay, I decided to bring the pump into the boot. I wanted to retain the boot board, not have any loss of boot space and ideally keep the spare wheel in its proper location, all without major bodywork surgery. I came up with this. I’m going to run the fuel line forwards through the interior but there is nothing to prevent using the original route under the floor. The fuel hose hole in the boot floor in front of the tank is still accessible.
Seems to work. It is easy to get at the pump and it can be withdrawn with a good length of hose which tucks nicely in front of the tank. This for a single tank car but with a little reorganisation it could probably work with twin tanks.

D

You'll find out why the pump was put "outside" it'll drive you mad on that bulkhead. Used to run Facet pumps on the racecars in the boot and they were noisy enough without being on the rear bulkhead!!!! I always found a small hammer worked on the SU pumps, well enough to get you home anyway!

Facets are noisy and run continuously. I don’t mind the clicking of the SU. I have a dual pump mounted beneath the back seat in one car and that doesn’t intrude. Besides I pretty deaf anyway.

D

hi d
it is probably a good thing to be a little deaf with a mini so one doesnt worry about any little noise when i bought the 750 ducati bevel drive it was so noisy it nearly drove me mad when i asked about the racket they said just ride until it breaks then fix it they are noisy wish i still had it
cheers roger mcnab

MrNoo wrote: ↑Wed Aug 19, 2020 9:29 pm You'll find out why the pump was put "outside" it'll drive you mad on that bulkhead.

If you can hear the SU clicking while driving, your engine is off or you run 5 silencer in your exhaust

I have installed the SU in the boot too and don't realize any acoustical issues.

I mounted an SU pump in the boot on the bulkhead using a pair of those rubber exhaust bobbins. It was fine.

The 997 project is back on the front burners. It’s time now to get the rest of the blue and orange paint stripped, back to metal and epoxy primed in case there is going to be not more summer. Warm mild weather seems a bit of a dream here and we are not out of August yet. Perhaps the filler and colour coats will have to wait until next year. We will see.

Today I took the passenger side back to bare metal using paint stripper and a clean and strip disc. This I used in my low rpm polishing motor. In the angle grinder it’s too fast, takes too much metal away with the paint and heats things up to the point that panel distortion can be a problem. It also chews through discs. And got a coat of epoxy primer on too.
D

hi d
the seasons must be hard where you live 3mths summer 9 mths winter how does one handle weather like that it is very simular here but in darwin it is endless summer with a big wet for good measure
well good luck with cars
cheers roger mcnab

My attention turned to the other side that I had stripped and primed earlier. It had become rather mucky and picked up some stone chip and needed flatting back. Unhappily, that showed up more evidence of accident damage that I had missed earlier. Loads of slight hollows and metal high spots.
The worst behind the B pillar. Clearly that had been given a shunt backwards too. At this late stage I couldn’t face fitting a replacement quarter panel and I doubt I could rectify things with a dolly and hammer. The ethos of this build has been one of preservation anyway. It will all have to disappear under a shallow sea of filler. It should be interesting to see how far that extends to get things anything like right.

D

As good as it gets for the moment. A little heat shrinking in a couple of places and some tapping and banging produced a manageable result. It won’t be perfect but once it has a few layers of high build primer things should look a lot better. I’m glad I served my apprenticeship icing the Christmas cake.

D

It was supposed to be a simple day today. Just strip the paint from the windscreen surround and prime the front end. Needless to say it was not to be. Lurking was a very moth eaten upper screen flange with some added filler.
The rot extended in the way too.
The rest of the flange looks not so nice but it is only surface pitting. Some repair resin to fill the hollows and give a smooth surface for the screen seal should get the job done. Unless I break out the body solder again.

D

That’s the last of the repairs. The car is now primed in epoxy and ready for prep for painting. It’s had a few dings over the years and the panels won’t be the height of perfection but it’s solid.
The plan is to paint the underside and engine bay, mask that off and get it back on its casters. I can then get a bit more room and tackle things section by section. I hope the weather holds a while longer.

D

That’s looking great David, fantastic work and progress

First real coats of colour today. Fine bright day with no wind. A bit cooler than I would like but it should be OK. I’ll find out in the morning.
Two coats of epoxy primer, two of stone chip another epoxy primer and three of colour. With a bit of luck that should be enough for Scottish winter weather. Maybe.

D