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Before I can turn my attention to the inner A panel, the area underneath has to be finished first.

The A-pillar was still open until then. I had already made the matching rep panel some time ago. But I extended it in the transition to the footwell by exactly the area I had cut out later. Here, too, exact fitting is essential for welding without distortion.


Before I closed the cavity, I used Mike Sanders anti corrosion grease from the sill up to the windshield frame. It's important not to apply it too close to the welding area, because it will run there later on its own, and also not to apply it too thick, because the stuff can burn. In the cavity, one then has not much options for extinguishing.

thanks for the weekly Sunday Mini motivation highlight

Dr.Mabo wrote: ↑Sun Jan 17, 2021 12:45 pm To check the lines, I then used my "precision measuring tool", which I store exclusively at a well-tempered temperature in the humidor . So a chunky piece of packing string

Doc, you´re a strange man! Keeping a cigar and a cigarillo in your garage and your tools inside a well-tempered humidor...
I sincerely hope - as you store that packing string in the humidor - it is at least made from finest Cuban sisal!?

However, the work you do in your garage is brilliant and some very nice inspiration!
And having had the luck to see this work in real life, I can very much vouch for it and say it is even nicer than it looks on the photos!

Its sunday morning again. Its time for another update Philipp, you discoverd my schedule

@ m1ch1, and all this as a liftime nonsmoker

The last thing to go onto the wing is the inner A-panel. Since I no longer need the full size of the inner A-panel, I cut it down to the minimum. So only the stiffening areas for the hinges remain. No doubled panels - no rust. Another problem with double sheets is that in most cases they do not lie exactly on top of each other. If you then later tighten the bolts of the door hinges properly, the outer/weaker A-pabel usually deforms very unattractively. This is extremely annoying after painting / filling. Since the outer body line was already exactly defined, it was now necessary to fit the inner A-panel cleanly from the inside. With the help of the door hinges, the panels can be brought together quite well without gaps in this state. Now determine the exact position along the A-pillar and make sure that the entire surface is in contact with the sheet metal underneath.


Maybe one or the other is wondering about the untypical design of the inner A-panel I used, no recesses in the hinge area and no triangular stiffener. I had a very old pair left over from one of my first restorations. From times when M-Machine was still called Mini-Machine. I finally used them here.

After everything was primed and the welding areas were prepared, the fourth and last part joined the wing combo. This way the wing really deserves its name. It now extends from the headlight to the door cutout and under the windshield. In other words, just like you're used to on today's cars.

Amazing work Doc

Forget the UK NHS - you are the best DOC with fantastic updates during the Coronavirus Pandemic. Keep safe and healthy. You are an inspiration to us all. Thank you.

hanlminiman wrote: ↑Sun Feb 07, 2021 8:12 pm Forget the UK NHS - you are the best DOC with fantastic updates during the Coronavirus Pandemic. Keep safe and healthy. You are an inspiration to us all. Thank you.

Wow, that's a vey strong compliment. Thanks



What was now done for the right side had to be done in the same way for the left wing, of course. It takes a lot of patience to apply the same care to the other side after the painstaking work on the first side was successfully finished. The only advantage is, you already know how to do it and you don't have to try anymore.

After both wings were finished, everything had to be put together. Positioning the bonnet and front mask exactly and then bring the wings into their final position. Again, careful preparation is fundamental for good welds later. However, since I butt welded the wings with MAG and in pilger steps, the gaps between the sheets did not have to be quite as narrow as with gas welding The correct alignment of the panels is the most essential part.

the level of accuracy throughout this build is ridiculous! incredible work, just incredible.

Al

Absolutely stunning as always!

Just fantastic

Finally, the Broadspeed has a face again .

Wings and front mask are welded together and all welds are ground.

Looks great!!!

Incredible work as usual doc!

what is the hole above the indicator hole?

Thank you

Charles

Charlynsane wrote: ↑Sun Feb 21, 2021 10:42 pm what is the hole above the indicator hole?

Hi Charles,

the hole above the indicator is for a separate sidelight or position light. However it is called. You can see it on my motivation photo in the very first post.

so long
the Doc

Doc, just take extra care if you have a 12v Battery in an area where you Weld or are creating Grinding Sparks they can make a Battery Explode .. seen it happen Big Bang that tore the battery case apart all very scary and it is not a good experience.

Otherwise your task is very impressive "Proper Job"

Polarsilver wrote: ↑Tue Feb 23, 2021 10:30 am Doc, just take extra care if you have a 12v Battery in an area where you Weld or are creating Grinding Sparks they can make a Battery Explode .. seen it happen Big Bang that tore the battery case apart all very scary and it is not a good experience.

You are totally right. This would be very dangerous.
In this case the above photo is misleading, sorry. Welding and grinding was defenately without a batterie nearby. After the front was finished I try fit the motordriven antenna. That's why I needed the batterie close to it.

Dr.Mabo wrote: ↑Tue Feb 23, 2021 10:13 am

Charlynsane wrote: ↑Sun Feb 21, 2021 10:42 pm what is the hole above the indicator hole?

Hi Charles,

the hole above the indicator is for a separate sidelight or position light. However it is called. You can see it on my motivation photo in the very first post.

so long
the Doc

Thank you for your explanations!

and congrats for your outstanding work as usual!

you have golden hands!

More than wonderful - inspiration.

D

After the basic bodyshell is completed, the movable parts must of course also be fitted and adjusted. So, then the classic restoration of the doors was on the agenda.

All the repair panels used so far were from "cheap" manufacturers that don't necessarily have the best reputation among some. But since I had to modify a lot anyway, I was completely satisfied with these panels. The door skins were the only ones from "premium production" (BMH). Definitely at premium prices.
The black primer has already crumbled off like puff pastry at slight contact. Actually, I was in the belief that they were KTL coated. But I think that time is long gone.

And actually, such a door skin is not very complex, it is all the more unfortunate when it does not fit. In the case of the left door skin, this affected the parallelism to the B-pillar in the lock area, i.e., the S-swing, and at the A-pillar, the lines in the transition to the window frame did not fit either. At both ends, the gap was clearly too large. So, I cut open the door skin just before the edge, clamped a piece of copper behind it and filled the missing material while MAG welding and finally grinded it down. I really would have expected a bit more from BMH.

Great looking work as always Doc, I put a rear floor/seat panel in my cooper and BMH had punched the holes for
the rear subframe mounting bolt holes in the wrong place, so know how you feel, you expect better when you pay for
what meant to be premium product. Mind you I think that is last time I touched it as I lost all my mo jo with it.