mk1-forum.net

That door bottom is remarkable.

More door. I made a former by tracing round the old bottom section onto MDF.
I then tacked it before dollying over the edges to avoid the repair section creeping and to put some tension back in the skin.
Some lead loading to seal the join.
There’s a bit more distortion than I would like and sadly some previous damage revealed when I stripped back the rest of the old paint. Still nothing lost and if I decide I don’t like the end result I still have a good frame to fit a new skin to.

D

This project never ceases to amaze me!

Yet more door. Didn’t like the state of the top hinge area.
And thought a bit of extra strength would not go amiss.
Continued

Then a case of tidying up.
A little lead.
Filed back. You can never have too much lead but this time not enough.
Still, together with the other dints and dings a touch of filler (OK quite a bit) sorts things out nicely.
Just as you were breathing a sigh of relief, it ain’t over yet.
It’s much the same at the other end too.

D

just

Fantastic stuff!!

Right, last episode of door. The least worst end seemed the best place to start.
Obviously it has be “mended” in the past. But not so bad, a bit of careful welding might just fill those holes? Wrong.
What horrors hide under that yard of crud?
It appears that I have been good in a previous life and the gods are still smiling on me, or is a malicious grin. What ever, time will tell. In the mean time I fashioned this repair with the fold over formed as per a replacement skin.
Tacked it in and dollied the fold tight.
Continued.

Finally welded up and linnished back it just needs a touch of lead to be nice.
Doors done.

D

I feel like such an amateur watching your progress.
I now officially nominate you for #1 Mini fabricator extraordinaire. Good stuff

Cat,

I am just an amateur. No different to you. Perhaps I just have the time to play. My attitude is that if some one else can do it why can’t I? You don’t see all of the error strewn learning curve. It is really all pig headed persistence. It really is all, cut, bend, weld and grind. If it goes wrong it can all be done again. As a Scottish fellow mini mad mate says “ it’s all infinitely adjustable”. Metal is plastic once heated, so in theory can be forced into any shape. This is bordering on the philosophical so I will shut up now.

D

Just another quick reply. Not intentionally trying to hide my name. It’s Wiebe in Canada. Always looking forward to your progress.

Love the repairs.

The linishing back is something I struggle, or maybe my weld just isn't flat enough in the first place...

Dearg1275 wrote:Cat,

I am just an amateur. No different to you. Perhaps I just have the time to play. My attitude is that if some one else can do it why can’t I? You don’t see all of the error strewn learning curve. It is really all pig headed persistence. It really is all, cut, bend, weld and grind. If it goes wrong it can all be done again. As a Scottish fellow mini mad mate says “ it’s all infinitely adjustable”. Metal is plastic once heated, so in theory can be forced into any shape. This is bordering on the philosophical so I will shut up now.

D

That’s a shame I was just enjoying that.

Super impressed the effort being made to save original panels. Don’t fancy doing a Hornet when you’ve finished do you? I also think I should be able to do what you’re doing, my Mrs doesn’t though.

Pete, what’s this word “finished”? It’s not one I’ve ever had to use.

Post some photos of the Hornet then we can all commiserate.

D

Dearg1275 wrote:Pete, what’s this word “finished”? It’s not one I’ve ever had to use.

Post some photos of the Hornet then we can all commiserate.

D

He can't. It's still in my shed

Where in Scotland are you?

Just so I can drop the van off later on...….



Al

St. Kilda?

D

No problem I’ll drop it off tomorrow.

Having sort of settled on a match for the Smoke Grey on the car I could finish the last bit of the shell. The rear valance. As this car has the open corners beneath the boot I wanted to get paint in those areas before welding on the valance. To keep as much of the flange cover in paint as I could I marked out for the spot welds. I put a bead of Tiger Seal along the front edge of the flange and between and around the spot weld positions. All welded up with the clamps in place to hold the flange tight while the sealant sets. It bubbles out a bit and cooks around the spot welds but not as much as you might expect. The short seam covers I filled with sealant and squelched them into place.

The sealant did what I hoped and made a good seal on the inner side of the valance and there is plenty of paint and stone chip back there to hinder the rust worm for a time. D