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Thanks Stu I've got your text with the image but I can't reply, my mobile is playing up, technology ey.

Thanks for resizing that Andy.

Jobs completed since my last updated include... Petrol tank welded and blasted/coated again after finding a hole. Seats and belts in. Hoses and electrics sorted. Old 'rough' clutch arm welded, will get a proper one done now I know it works. Another new starter motor fitted. Pedal box mounting strengthened, it was moving about too much. Top engine steady made. Massive thanks to Mark for reconditioning the H4s.

So after all that we finally got it running over the weekend and it drives!!



Video link below, exhaust is blowing a bit but will be coming off again to sort the tailpipe once the body is on...

http://www.redwallupload.co.uk/redwall- ... 2019_1.mov

While the body is off and access is so good I'll take it to a local rolling road to have it setup for running in. Then we are back on with the body. The plan is to do as much prep work as we can then take it to a local garage to apply the final topcoat.

That looks absolutely SPECTACULAR Andy!

As I have already said, if it was mine I'd be tempted to drive it around like that!

M

Absolutely stunning!

Those steering arms look like a proper job (as does it all, to be fair)

I'd be whacking a set of Lotus 23 panels on it!

Al

Very nice Andy, I'm very much looking forward to the finished article!
S

Im Sooo jealous, it looks fantastic.

it’s a awesome effort, and you should feel rightfully proud of what you have achieved.



A question, Rossabitz Allen told me that his rear arms don’t fit 10” wheels, so what did you have to do to make them fit?

There are a few bits and pieces we might need to look at again further down the line but at the moment we're really pleased with how it's coming along.

I haven't done anything to the Rossabitz kit. I'm running the wider rear drums, rather than the early drum without the inch spacer, so maybe thats what Alan is referring to. Having said that my Dunlop D1 wheels are very close to the arm so I've opted to use a quarter inch spacer just to be on the safe side. I reckon you'd struggle with your Carlos Fandango wheels

turbocox wrote: Im Sooo jealous, it looks fantastic.

it’s a awesome effort, and you should feel rightfully proud of what you have achieved.



A question, Rossabitz Allen told me that his rear arms don’t fit 10” wheels, so what did you have to do to make them fit?

I believe you have to be careful with offset, otherwise they rub the rim. if you put 5-6" wide rims on I guess they would foul.
I see Andy has the standard Mini rims on and they are very close so any bigger would hit.

I'll fit one of the D1s without a spacer so you can see how close it is. To be honest the arms are so over engineered a little meat could be machined off no problem.

Great build thread this Andy, look forward to seeing it!

AndyB72 wrote:I haven't done anything to the Rossabitz kit. I'm running the wider rear drums, rather than the early drum without the inch spacer, so maybe thats what Alan is referring to. Having said that my Dunlop D1 wheels are very close to the arm so I've opted to use a quarter inch spacer just to be on the safe side. I reckon you'd struggle with your Carlos Fandango wheels

Luckily I don’t want to use Rossabitz kit, I really like ‘my’ locking setup . I was talking to Allen about it as Dimitri was going to have a set off him, but Allen said it wouldn’t fit a 10” setup?

I have, I think,,,,,, offset drums, with the wider shoes, the wheel mounting face has been skimmed down, and a front disc, drive flange with rear face skimmed and fitted over the drum studs. This was done so we could fit the larger cv‘s, which we had seen shear off on another Gtm Coupe, although it was quite a powerful Honda powered car. Still rarther fit the larger ones.

Whats wrong with my fandango wheels lol the only reason I ended up with them on the Cox was, the need to slow the bugger down. I needed some better brakes, over the original 7” ones that had been fitted.

The plan was put some big brakes on, job done.... nope, my standard size mamba’s wouldn’t fit over the new large callipers. I like the look of the mambas, but to get the look, I had to go fandango splitrims.

turbocox wrote:

AndyB72 wrote:I haven't done anything to the Rossabitz kit. I'm running the wider rear drums, rather than the early drum without the inch spacer, so maybe thats what Alan is referring to. Having said that my Dunlop D1 wheels are very close to the arm so I've opted to use a quarter inch spacer just to be on the safe side. I reckon you'd struggle with your Carlos Fandango wheels

Luckily I don’t want to use Rossabitz kit, I really like my locking setup I was talking to Allen about it as Dimitri was going to have a set off him, but Allen said it wouldn’t fit a 10” setup?

I have ,I think,,,,,, offset drums, with the wider shoes, the wheel mounting face has been skimmed down, and a front disc drive flange with rear face skimmed and fitted over the drum studs. This was done so we could fit the larger cv ‘s, which we had seen shear off on another Gtm Coupe, although it was quite a powerful Honda powered car. Still rarther fit the larger ones.

Whats wrong with my fandango wheels lol the only reason I ended up with them on the Cox was the need to slow the bigger down I needed some better brakes, over the 7” ones that had been fitted.


The plan was put some big brakes on job done.... nope, my standard size mamba’s wouldn’t fit over the new callipers. I like the look of the mambas but to get the look I had to go fandango sliprims.

I have also kept the reverse wishbone set up that my Heerey had originally, just modified it with the inner pick up being adjustable, The Rossabitz set up is a good one, but is quite heavy for a race car. I have Mamba's same as TC, but my problem is rubbing on the front wheel arches because of the offset! I'm going to have to fit lock restrictors to the rack... Hopefully it will be ok for track use, though I may have to do a 3 point turn at Mallory hairpin, which will effect the lap times somewhat!

We are having the same problem too with clearance at the front, it was catching at the front and back.
We've moved the bonnet an inch or so forward which has helped.

I went drastic and took a small slither out of the front end of sill, to get all the clearance I needed for my Fandango Mambas.

Have you both set your caster yet

Yes had the suspension set, then moved the bonnet to accommodate, I'll dig out the setup sheet.

I have done 1 front wheel at 1.5 degrees camber and 2 degrees castor. I have the H/D tie bars all round so should be able to get it all very accurate.
SG

2 degrees Castor seems very little, I run 4.5 - 5 deg on my hillclimber.