'64 Aussie Morris 850
- Pete
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: '63 Aussie Morris 850
I must admit I didn't really look at the lamps, I was too busy being impressed by the panel gaps on your cars ! Lovely scenery by to!
- timmy201
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: '63 Aussie Morris 850
It's quite possible the boot has never been taken off the car. The car has only been resprayed once, and the paint is over the screws and I'm pretty sure inside the boot is still the original colour...Pete wrote:I must admit I didn't really look at the lamps, I was too busy being impressed by the panel gaps on your cars ! Lovely scenery by to!
I bought some twin carbs from ebay on a whim. From the numbers on them and the needles they would seem to be from an Aussie Cooper S Mk2
I also found an old aftermarket manifold on ebay.. It's made by Warneford, who were tuning minis before the Coopers came to Australia.. Here they are mocked up on the head.
And some close ups of the manifold after a quick scrub
I've also cleaned up the 1098 crank and got rid of the rust
There is only one bearing face that shows any damage and it has some bad pitting on the surface. It is already undersize at -020 according to the bearings, so I'm on the lookout for another at the moment..
And a couple of pics from our run the other week... We had 21 cars all up
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- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: '63 Aussie Morris 850
Love Oz minis!
I want one!!
All red lenses look great! I like the engine plans, the manifold is an interesting period item! Good stuff!
Ed
I want one!!
All red lenses look great! I like the engine plans, the manifold is an interesting period item! Good stuff!
Ed
- timmy201
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: '63 Aussie Morris 850
Thanks!tedmcedd wrote:Love Oz minis!
I want one!!
All red lenses look great! I like the engine plans, the manifold is an interesting period item! Good stuff!
Ed
I've been lucky to have sorted another 1098 crank, and it's been crack tested and freshly ground
I was also able to use a proper burette to measure the combustion chambers on the 295 head. They measured up at 27cc, which means I'll be able to get a decent compression ratio with some flat top pistons.
I picked up a Cooper S air box for a good price on ebay last week. This was the only photo in the listing and it looked like it needed some work to make it look good again...
When it turned up it was just oily and dusty and after wiping half the housing clean it started to look pretty good! The paint has got a decent shine to it and it only has one small dent.
It's the correct style filter that would have originally come on the twin carbs I've got. I'm looking forward to getting the carbs all built up, they're going to look great!
- timmy201
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: '63 Aussie Morris 850
I had a little time one afternoon this week, and I've finally installed the windscreen washer bottle and pump. I have no idea how long it's been since it's had working washers...
And installed
It even works too!
Although maybe a little bit too well, as it was also going onto the roof!
And installed
It even works too!
Although maybe a little bit too well, as it was also going onto the roof!
Last edited by timmy201 on Sat Oct 11, 2014 12:50 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: '63 Aussie Morris 850
Great story, on a nice car, love the work you are doing to it.
Seems there is a lot of nice Mini,s in your club
Keep the pics coming.
Jens Christian
Seems there is a lot of nice Mini,s in your club
Keep the pics coming.
Jens Christian
- timmy201
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: '63 Aussie Morris 850
Thanks, we are lucky to have a good enthusiastic group of mini people around my area.JC T ONE wrote:Great story, on a nice car, love the work you are doing to it.
Seems there is a lot of nice Mini,s in your club
Keep the pics coming.
Jens Christian
My order from minispares turned up today. It's always nice to get a big parcel of shiny new mini bits!
- timmy201
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: '63 Aussie Morris 850
I've started painting the exhaust to hopefully stop it from rusting. I've got a couple of coats of primer and silver top coat on.
The HS2 carbs came back from getting bead blasted and rebuilt with a CRK101 kit. They look pretty awesome now!
Especially considering they started off like this!
A few more photos
The HS2 carbs came back from getting bead blasted and rebuilt with a CRK101 kit. They look pretty awesome now!
Especially considering they started off like this!
A few more photos
- timmy201
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: '63 Aussie Morris 850
I picked up a set of Australian ROH Contessas yesterday. They are 5x10 and drum offset and have a set of A008's.
They are significantly lighter than the current steel wheels, which should improve the feel of the car. I like the raw alloy finish on them too.
I've also finally got the passengers seat fixed up. It's been a good 6 months since the rubber diaphragm split and at least 12 months since I bought the new foam to restuff the base... It's actually quite comfy now, a bit firmer than the rubber base but hopefully longer lasting!
These are some photos I took a few months ago, I think they turned out pretty nice.
They are significantly lighter than the current steel wheels, which should improve the feel of the car. I like the raw alloy finish on them too.
I've also finally got the passengers seat fixed up. It's been a good 6 months since the rubber diaphragm split and at least 12 months since I bought the new foam to restuff the base... It's actually quite comfy now, a bit firmer than the rubber base but hopefully longer lasting!
These are some photos I took a few months ago, I think they turned out pretty nice.
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- 998 Cooper
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Re: '63 Aussie Morris 850
Love the way you are working away on this although I must admit I prefer the steelies.Carbs came out really nice.
- timmy201
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: '63 Aussie Morris 850
Yeah I do really like the steelies, but I think it's time for a change. Chances are they'll end up in the shed for when I want to fit them again in the future..java gt wrote:Love the way you are working away on this although I must admit I prefer the steelies.Carbs came out really nice.
- timmy201
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: '63 Aussie Morris 850
I tried on the new wheels during the week
They are nice and wide!
Then went out for a drive. The new wheels drive so much nicer!
Today I installed my stage one kit I got a few months ago. Here's the engine bay before I started.
And here's the view from the rear. There's a little exhaust pipe there somewhere!
First up the HS2 carb and filter housing were removed
The cast intake/exhaust manifold was removed next
I removed the entire exhaust system and put it next to the new one. It was about 30 minutes to get to this point..
And a close up of the old and new manifolds and carbs
So now we have the new parts going on - first on was the exhaust manifold. I had to lean the engine forward a bit to fit it in. This took about 40 minutes to get in..
Intake manifold was next.. I had to grind a flat edge on the two inside washers as I couldn't get them to sit flat. I put the new studs in too
The HS4 took about an hour to get installed... I had to borrow some bits from my other carbs and that took a bit of time to get sorted. The new AAC needle went in fine. The old one was an ADF.
The KN filter was installed in the filter housing
Everything is mostly done in the engine bay in this photo. I've got to get another choke cable as mine was too short to reach, as its on the opposite side to the old HS2
I got the RC40 twin box exhaust installed easily and went to connect the battery back up again, which resulted in some big sparks! It took me a while to figure out what the deal was, but it turned out the new exhaust was touching the floor starter button! I tried moving the exhaust to miss the button but soon came up with a good fix..
It was all good once fitted!
You can actually see the exhaust from the back now!
It fired up first time, which was awesome! I had to up the idle speed a bit to get it stable and idling nicely. I set the mixture a bit richer and took it out for a quick drive. I didn't really need the choke to get it going as it was 30 degrees today! It's got noticeably more grunt now, which is great, but it's not too much louder from the inside, which is slightly disappointing... There is a lot more intake noise though!
I've still got to fine tune a few things, and give it another oil change...
They are nice and wide!
Then went out for a drive. The new wheels drive so much nicer!
Today I installed my stage one kit I got a few months ago. Here's the engine bay before I started.
And here's the view from the rear. There's a little exhaust pipe there somewhere!
First up the HS2 carb and filter housing were removed
The cast intake/exhaust manifold was removed next
I removed the entire exhaust system and put it next to the new one. It was about 30 minutes to get to this point..
And a close up of the old and new manifolds and carbs
So now we have the new parts going on - first on was the exhaust manifold. I had to lean the engine forward a bit to fit it in. This took about 40 minutes to get in..
Intake manifold was next.. I had to grind a flat edge on the two inside washers as I couldn't get them to sit flat. I put the new studs in too
The HS4 took about an hour to get installed... I had to borrow some bits from my other carbs and that took a bit of time to get sorted. The new AAC needle went in fine. The old one was an ADF.
The KN filter was installed in the filter housing
Everything is mostly done in the engine bay in this photo. I've got to get another choke cable as mine was too short to reach, as its on the opposite side to the old HS2
I got the RC40 twin box exhaust installed easily and went to connect the battery back up again, which resulted in some big sparks! It took me a while to figure out what the deal was, but it turned out the new exhaust was touching the floor starter button! I tried moving the exhaust to miss the button but soon came up with a good fix..
It was all good once fitted!
You can actually see the exhaust from the back now!
It fired up first time, which was awesome! I had to up the idle speed a bit to get it stable and idling nicely. I set the mixture a bit richer and took it out for a quick drive. I didn't really need the choke to get it going as it was 30 degrees today! It's got noticeably more grunt now, which is great, but it's not too much louder from the inside, which is slightly disappointing... There is a lot more intake noise though!
I've still got to fine tune a few things, and give it another oil change...
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- 998 Cooper
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Re: '63 Aussie Morris 850
I always thought the RC40 was a little too good at silencing the A series,I much prefer the Maniflow system as it gives a better sound but not too loud.
- timmy201
- 1275 Cooper S
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- Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 9:57 am
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Re: '63 Aussie Morris 850
I was considering getting the single box RC40, but it was much cheaper to buy the kit from minispares than try to buy all the bits separately... Maybe in awhile I can get a louder one to replace the twin boxjava gt wrote:I always thought the RC40 was a little too good at silencing the A series,I much prefer the Maniflow system as it gives a better sound but not too loud.
I've had some interesting times recently!
Last Sunday I went to our local MITG Show n Shine, which had about 65 cars over the day. It was a great day out
I've posted more photos of the day here:
http://home.exetel.com.au/minisinthegon ... p?f=4&t=71
I had three mechanical dramas on the day though.... Number one was on the way up. The gear stick locating pin unwound itself and caused the gear stick to flop around. I managed to catch it before it fell out though! The bolt thread was rubbish and wouldn't stay in properly. I made it to the show fine after this
The second drama was on the way home. It was a repeat of the first, except the bolt fell out completely and it was a struggle to find gears after that as I had no way of fixing it...
Third drama was a bit more terminal!
Which required some assistance
One of my QL5000 couplings disintegrated going along the highway at about 100kph. There was a large bang followed by a huge racket as the driveshaft bounced around under the car! It was only 1-2km from home too, which was particularly annoying.
I had just so happened to pick up a bunch of spare parts the day before, and one of them was this gearbox. I'm now considering replacing the current rubber cross yokes with this Hardy Spicer setup. It also has a 3.44 diff fitted, which might be a nice change from the 3.76 that should be in there now..
- timmy201
- 1275 Cooper S
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- timmy201
- 1275 Cooper S
- Posts: 1912
- Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 9:57 am
- Location: Australia
- Been thanked: 4 times
Re: '63 Aussie Morris 850
I've made a decision on the way forward! The current diff is a 3.76, which I'm happy to keep on this engine. I've also decided to swap the rubber cross joints for Hardy Spicer joints.
I've been busy removing the engine. I didn't have any mini specific lifting brackets, so the engine was at the wrong angle to get it out easily. I got it out eventually, but I scratched a little bit of the (peeling) paint..
One problem I had was my engine crane was too high and I couldn't get the legs under the lower suspension arms. I took the castor wheels off and had to move the car forward and backward to wiggle the engine out..
One of the u-bolts was bent, and had scratched a little of the gearbox casing. There were also a few dings from the driveshaft
The driveshaft also dinged up the new exhaust manifold
Diff was removed to replace the rubber cross diff outputs. The diff ratio is definately a 3.76
I had a couple of extra diffs and output shafts to pick and choose from
Also got a couple of extra output flanges
And these diff covers
I stripped the couplings down and gave them a coat of paint
And they're now finished with new universal joints and rubber boots
Here are all the parts from the rubber cross couplings except the castellated nut and split pin.
And these are all the bits to swap to Hardy Spicer joints. I'll weigh both sets to see what the weight difference is like.
The diff has been pulled apart ready to be rebuilt, and I've now got all the parts to put it back together
The diff pin and pinion washers were worn in the current diff...
And so was the diff cage.
I stripped down the 3 other diffs I had and this one looked in good nick. I've found a nice pair of output shafts to go along with this.
One of the other diffs was even more worn the my current one!
I had another accidental ebay purchase... A nice shiny rocker cover to top off the engine! It went very cheap, and looks nearly new. I've got a can of crackle black paint that I think would go nicely. The engine and engine bay are getting a new coat of red too while it's all apart
I've been busy removing the engine. I didn't have any mini specific lifting brackets, so the engine was at the wrong angle to get it out easily. I got it out eventually, but I scratched a little bit of the (peeling) paint..
One problem I had was my engine crane was too high and I couldn't get the legs under the lower suspension arms. I took the castor wheels off and had to move the car forward and backward to wiggle the engine out..
One of the u-bolts was bent, and had scratched a little of the gearbox casing. There were also a few dings from the driveshaft
The driveshaft also dinged up the new exhaust manifold
Diff was removed to replace the rubber cross diff outputs. The diff ratio is definately a 3.76
I had a couple of extra diffs and output shafts to pick and choose from
Also got a couple of extra output flanges
And these diff covers
I stripped the couplings down and gave them a coat of paint
And they're now finished with new universal joints and rubber boots
Here are all the parts from the rubber cross couplings except the castellated nut and split pin.
And these are all the bits to swap to Hardy Spicer joints. I'll weigh both sets to see what the weight difference is like.
The diff has been pulled apart ready to be rebuilt, and I've now got all the parts to put it back together
The diff pin and pinion washers were worn in the current diff...
And so was the diff cage.
I stripped down the 3 other diffs I had and this one looked in good nick. I've found a nice pair of output shafts to go along with this.
One of the other diffs was even more worn the my current one!
I had another accidental ebay purchase... A nice shiny rocker cover to top off the engine! It went very cheap, and looks nearly new. I've got a can of crackle black paint that I think would go nicely. The engine and engine bay are getting a new coat of red too while it's all apart
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- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: '63 Aussie Morris 850
You were fortunate that the old couplings didn't damage the gearbox casing any more than they did.
It's nice to have a good selection of Hardy Spicer bits to aid with the re-build.
Good luck with the mods. You'll be back on the roads soon enough.
It's nice to have a good selection of Hardy Spicer bits to aid with the re-build.
Good luck with the mods. You'll be back on the roads soon enough.
- Vegard
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: '63 Aussie Morris 850
When fitting new planet gear washers, you MUST fit the new A+ ones with a locating thang. The diff cage will need modifying, but it's the only way without going twin pin.
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- 998 Cooper
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Re: '63 Aussie Morris 850
As above. Luck lucky,
Had the rubber swell on mine and it basically killed itself.. And the box casing was also damaged..
Spares stock is the way forward.. If only I had held onto some of the bits I had...
Had the rubber swell on mine and it basically killed itself.. And the box casing was also damaged..
Spares stock is the way forward.. If only I had held onto some of the bits I had...
- timmy201
- 1275 Cooper S
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- Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 9:57 am
- Location: Australia
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Re: '63 Aussie Morris 850
Yeah it was very lucky I picked up those spare parts. I'm hoping the Hardy Spicers will be a better option than the rubber couplings in the long term..InimiaD wrote:You were fortunate that the old couplings didn't damage the gearbox casing any more than they did.
It's nice to have a good selection of Hardy Spicer bits to aid with the re-build.
Good luck with the mods. You'll be back on the roads soon enough.
I'll look into that. We didn't get A+ engines factory fitted out here.Vegard wrote:When fitting new planet gear washers, you MUST fit the new A+ ones with a locating thang. The diff cage will need modifying, but it's the only way without going twin pin.
I seem to have collected a huge amount of stuff in a short time. Most of the 998 and 1098 stuff is just being thrown out and I don't like seeing it go to scrap!bpirie1000 wrote:As above. Luck lucky,
Had the rubber swell on mine and it basically killed itself.. And the box casing was also damaged..
Spares stock is the way forward.. If only I had held onto some of the bits I had...