mk1-forum.net

ianh1968 wrote:

mk1mini wrote:Another comment was made about the engine pinking at light load in the midrange...
Engines normally tend to pink in the midrange generally in the area where most
torque is being produced, and this will be happening if you have your foot down....
Ian

Bollocks

Smiffy wrote:

mk1mini wrote:Ok, so at the previously stated 4000rpm, 16 degrees with vac disconnected? Thanks for everyone's patience with me on this!

Well no this is what I said:

Smiffy wrote:Theres not enough timing, set it to 16 degrees at 1200rpms. But when you drive it listen out for any sign of pinking and don't give it full throttle under load just yet.

Yes with the vac disconnected.

This afternoon I set the timing at 16 btc @1200 , then adjusted the idle back to 900 , took it a run and it was ALOT better , when I say better I mean the power was smoother and longer no pinking or any signs of problems even on a gradient.

What I was puzzled at was when I returned the engine to 900 the timing was still at around 16btc is this normal ?

I never took a plug out afterwards maybe that would have been a good idea?

Also how where do I go from here ? I am happy with the running now but after reading the previous posts I just hope its right ie too much advance might nacker the engine ?? I might be being paranoid .... Is there any checks I can now do to reassure me the timing is not causing damage even though its running great ? I don't think iv ever had the car this advanced , I think the most its been is around 12btc but even then running might not have been 100% either ...

thanks for all the help and posts , Im gonna go with the flow before changing dizzys etc but i'm taking all this on board

Now you need to check the mixture and unless you've got a wideband lambda sensor and gauge. You'll need to read the plugs you do this by performing a 'Plug Chop'. The idea of reading the plugs, is to hold the car at a steady speed, under load at each point in the rpm range your wanting to check.
So you'll need to find a nice quiet straight stretch of road going up a long hill, long enough to reach maximum rev's in third gear. After you found somewhere to do the test, fit a new set of plugs before your first run. Now accelerate up said hill in third gear, listening out for any signs of pinking until you reach maximum rpms with your foot flat on the floor. Now without decelerating, turn the ignition off and push the clutch in at the same time. Coast over to a stop and pull the plugs to check the mixture. You can use the same test to sort out any other anomalies anywhere in the rpm range. This will get you pretty close but if your not used to tuning a engine i this way, best you get it checked out on a rolling road.

Oh yeah and before performing the test make sure your mini's steering lock doesn't come on, with the key still in the lock.
Quite a few worn ones do !

Smiffy wrote:

ianh1968 wrote:

mk1mini wrote:Another comment was made about the engine pinking at light load in the midrange...
Engines normally tend to pink in the midrange generally in the area where most
torque is being produced, and this will be happening if you have your foot down....
Ian

Bollocks

Thank you for your vote of confidence...


It's a well known fact that an engine will take a far greater amount of
advance at part throttle than it will at Wide Open Throttle. (WOT)

At WOT, there is zero vacuum, so the vacuum advance is automatically
removed, or rather does not occur in the first place.

At part throttle, the engine is partially strangulated and accordingly the
mixture needs lighting earlier to produce optimum results. This extra
advance is provided by the vacuum system. The engine will run better,
and produce better economy... This is why manufacturers fit VACUUM
advance mechanisms.

Many "performance" distributors do not have a vacuum advance on them, it
is assumed that the driver will be going flat-out all the time and that economy
will not be on the priority list.

This is also why engine management systems have multi-axis mappings.
If only it was a simple as a 2 dimensional RPM vs Degrees setup....

It is therefore a "given" that if the engine pinks at light throttle something
is definitely amiss, especially on a dizzy with no vacuum. If the dizzy does
have a vacuum and there is pinking at light throttle openings and this is cured
by flooring the throttle, the vacuum system is providing too much advance.

Smiffy wrote: Theres not enough timing, set it to 16 degrees at 1200rpms.

What about the shape of the rest of the curve?

I thought that the answer to life, the universe and everything, is "42" (not 16)...


"After the point of maximum torque has been reached the amount of ignition timing
is less critical, meaning that it can stay the same as engine increases or can be
increased slightly as the rpm rises above the maximum torque rpm.

An engine will not pink as the rpm rises past the point of maximum torque if the
ignition timing remains the same because there is less air in the cylinders (less
volumetric efficiency)"
Source of the above quote: Des Hamill, respected engine tuning author...

This can be expressed with the mathematical formula:
Highest Volumetric Efficiency (Torque) = More prone to pinking...
(Multiplied by exactly 16)

Ian
PS I am not qualified in any way as a motor mechanic/technician. Anything I say
in any of my posts is purely my own view and should be regarded with a massive
disclaimer. Much of what I say is as a result of being involved with these engines
for more years than I care to mention. Some of what I say is based on what has
been said by persons regarded as being experts in this field. Another "some" of
what I say could be considered as "Bollocks", we are all entitled to our opinions.
It will be down to the reader to decide whether or not to disregard the information
offered on this forum. All information is generally provided in good faith, and any
modifications that cause a self-destruction of an engine will be the fault of the
engine builder, who ultimately has responsibility for his/her actions.

Crikey - I think I'll have this as my new signature...

ianh1968 wrote:Thank you for your vote of confidence...


It's a well known fact that an engine will take a far greater amount of
advance at part throttle than it will at Wide Open Throttle. (WOT)

At WOT, there is zero vacuum, so the vacuum advance is automatically
removed, or rather does not occur in the first place.

At part throttle, the engine is partially strangulated and accordingly the
mixture needs lighting earlier to produce optimum results. This extra
advance is provided by the vacuum system. The engine will run better,
and produce better economy... This is why manufacturers fit VACUUM
advance mechanisms.

Many "performance" distributors do not have a vacuum advance on them, it
is assumed that the driver will be going flat-out all the time and that economy
will not be on the priority list.

This is also why engine management systems have multi-axis mappings.
If only it was a simple as a 2 dimensional RPM vs Degrees setup....

It is therefore a "given" that if the engine pinks at light throttle something
is definitely amiss, especially on a dizzy with no vacuum. If the dizzy does
have a vacuum and there is pinking at light throttle openings and this is cured
by flooring the throttle, the vacuum system is providing too much advance.

Smiffy wrote: Theres not enough timing, set it to 16 degrees at 1200rpms.

What about the shape of the rest of the curve?

I thought that the answer to life, the universe and everything, is "42" (not 16)...

Where exactly did I mention vacuum advance, apart from saying 'Yes with it disconnected'.

Before we start investigating the rest of the curve, we need to make sure it's not gonna blow up.

Smiffy wrote:
Before we start investigating the rest of the curve, we need to make sure it's not gonna blow up.

I hope not ...

It might be a few days before I can get out in car to continue but I will report back asap. I need to find out a suitable place to carry out the previous instructions with the plugs.

This is making for interesting reading As far as I am concerned as the reader and what iv learned is that there are loads of factors involved with timing and I'm happy to take advice and follow instruction until I have it running well or blown up.
The posts about dizzys being curved to the engine and curves in general im not fully understanding. The car has been used for 4 years with no major faults so my set up cant be far away in my eyes and it is capable of doing what I want it to do. Im just trying to take the info on board from you guys and trusting your knowledge.

Smiffy wrote: Where exactly did I mention vacuum advance,
apart from saying 'Yes with it disconnected'.

Smiffy,

I talk about vacuum to give context to my previous statement:
Quite simply at part throttle there will be vacuum. This is implied,
although you have not stated it implicitly...

Under part-throttle/vacuum conditions the engine is less likely
to pink due to much reduced Volumetric Efficiency.

I am only disagreeing with "Bollocks"!
(Which you do not quantify in any way... It is your opinion and you are entitled to it)


I only jest about the 42/16, it's probably not too far wrong at that sort
of RPM, but all engines are different. BUT: Only slight differences can
make a lot of difference to an engine's timing requirements. I found
recently that a single mod of swapping out a MiniSpares inlet manifold
and fitting a Howley instead needed a considerably different curve at
the bottom end... On this basis, I would never specify categorically a
figure for someone else to use, especially as no-one, not even the OP,
knows the exact spec of the engine being discussed...

As I said before, the Aldon "Yellow" should have matched my old engine
perfectly, the info on it said 1380, 'S' Head, LCB, 643/285/286 cam etc.
In reality, it was not even close. We are talking about Aldon here, with
decades of experience - everything is "ball-park" only... and probably
wrong! Go to a dyno...

Smiffy wrote: Before we start investigating the rest of the curve,
we need to make sure it's not gonna blow up.

... and rightly so... But we would have no idea at this point what the
engine's requirement at 7000+rpm would be, and what the dizzy would
produce at the same rpm. With the amount of engine/exhaust noise at
these sort of engine speeds, "listening" for pinking and not hearing it
could be catastrophic...

Regarding the "Plug-chop": My own experiences tell me that on a virgin set
of plugs, a quick zip up the road is insufficient to get any worth-while colour
on the plugs. My personal view would be to allow a certain amount of
primer/undercoat to be present on the plugs, say 100miles worth.

Ditto: Totally agree with making sure you don't activate the steering lock...
Did this myself once : Throttle spring snapped, stupidly dumped the clutch,
engine went to 6500, cut ignition at 70 mph - SHIIIIIIT - No steering...

BE CAREFUL!


Best wishes to all...

Ian

ianh1968 wrote: a quick zip up the road is insufficient to get any worth-while colour
on the plugs. My personal view would be to allow a certain amount of
primer/undercoat to be present on the plugs, say 100miles worth.

Ditto: Totally agree with making sure you don't activate the steering lock...
Did this myself once : Throttle spring snapped, stupidly dumped the clutch,
engine went to 6500, cut ignition at 70 mph - SHIIIIIIT - No steering...

BE CAREFUL!


Best wishes to all...

Ian

I thought the same regarding the new plugs as they still look like new plugs . But running the car to get colour could damage the engine if things are off ? ?

Do any mk1 cars have steering locks ? mine doesn't , but i'm familiar with the risk of that.

It's more likely to pink on a partially open throttle, especially you've been miss guided by others talking about it. Thats why I said 'yes with it disconnected'.

mk1mini wrote:I thought the same regarding the new plugs as they still look like new plugs . But running the car to get colour could damage the engine if things are off ?

Well you both wrong, go back and read what I said about doing a plug chop.

mk1mini wrote: I thought the same regarding the new plugs as they still look like new plugs.
But running the car to get colour could damage the engine if things are off ? ?

Treat it like you are running it in... No high revs, and no Wide Open Throttle.
Drive "nicely"... If you do get audible pinking at even part throttle, back off
and wind the timing back.

As I said before, if you get any pinking whatsoever at part throttle a combination
of the centrifugal advance and the vacuum (if connected) is too much.

When tuning the timing, all the maximum power configuration should be done with
any vacuum device disconnected. This should be foot on floor stuff, otherwise you
are not allowing the engine to obtain its best Volumetric Efficiency. As said before,
under "NOT Best VE conditions", the engine will take more advance. If you set the
timing under NOT Best VE conditions, say 3/4 throttle, it will be artificially advanced.
When you do put your foot right down, the timing will then be too much and the
engine will probably pink. Don't kid yourself - you have to gun it!

NB Lucas distributors for Minis usually add UP TO 14 degrees more advance with the
vacuum enabled.

As has been said before, if the distributor curve is fixed, we can only move the whole
curve backwards and forwards. So if we retard the timing by 2 degrees, say, to stop
it pinking at say, 3500, if it was OK everywhere else, it will now be minus 2 degrees
from optimum everywhere, apart from at the point where the pinking was tuned out.

Without a specially built distributor, this is a sad fact of life - a compromise...

Don't forget to seal up the hole in the manifold if the vacuum is disconnected.

Once the power side of things is settled, this is your "base" curve. There should be
no pinking anywhere... Reconnect the Vacuum and see how it goes. If you then get
pinking, you know that it is the vacuum that is the problem, not the centrifugal. If you
do get pinking with the vacuum re-connected, you have three choices:

1) Disconnect the vacuum, in which case you will lose out on cruise driveability and MPG
(The engine may feel hesitant, like it's got a too lean mixture...)
2) Find a "vacuum can" that produces less advance.
3) Retard the whole distributor, in which case you will now not be able to get maximum BHP.

Other things to note:
If you do your power setup on a cold day, the air will be more dense - more mixture will
be sucked into your engine and it will take a certain amount of advance. If you then drive
at WOT on a hotter day, the engine may pink. So either do your setup on a hot day, or
be prepared to back the timing off more if the temperature changes.

If you are running 97 octane, you could do your power timing with 90% of 97 octane,
plus 10% 95 octane. On a 5.5 gallon tank, about 2.5 litres 95, topped up to full, 97.
On a later tank, 3.4 litres 95, topped up to full, 97.

My theory here, B******* or otherwise is that the fuel will now be about 96.8 octane
during setup and when you run 97 normally you will have a small buffer against pinking.

I did exactly this on a dyno during a February and during the summer the engine was fine.

Temperature, ambient and engine makes a LOT of difference. Years ago, on another dyno:
It showed 60BHP at the wheels.
The dyno operator went for a cup of tea for 20 minutes, came back and did some miracle
"pretend" modification under the bonnet.
He then took another power run to show me the extra 10BHP that his magic fingers had produced.
This was the difference between a hot engine and a cold one...
Not to be out-done, I said, "OK, try this" (Thinks "OK, try this, smart-arse...") and I pulled the
heater control which shut off the heat going through the alloy inlet manifold.
Mr Magic Fingers dyno operator's jaw hit the floor when I pulled another 2.5BHP out of thin air...

So, basically anywhere between 60 and 72.5Bhp, dependent on temperature, or a 20% gain...

Every engine is different, and there are a multitude of factors which affect both timing and fuelling.

mk1mini wrote: Do any mk1 cars have steering locks ? mine doesn't , but i'm familiar with the risk of that.

If the key is in the middle of the dash, you're OK, but it is still a very valid warning for others...

Ian

I was just concerned the new plugs might not show colour for a considerable mileage and dont want to risk damaging the engine. I am following and trusting your instructions.

mk1mini wrote:I am following and trusting your instructions.

Trust no-one, especially me... My posts are not instructions - They are my personal
opinions and experiences, not to be taken as fact, unless of course, they are fact...

Bed-Time.


Goodnight all!

Ian

Ian, thanks for the reply i think i understand the curve comprimise now, i couldnt think of how you could get the timing initial correct aswell as the total. Makes sense now that it is not possible or difficult. Thanks my last post was for smiffy i was trying to explain im going with his method but paranoid im doing damage

ianh1968 wrote:

mk1mini wrote: I thought the same regarding the new plugs as they still look like new plugs.
But running the car to get colour could damage the engine if things are off ? ?

Treat it like you are running it in... No high revs, and no Wide Open Throttle.
Drive "nicely"... If you do get audible pinking at even part throttle, back off
and wind the timing back.

As I said before, if you get any pinking whatsoever at part throttle a combination
of the centrifugal advance and the vacuum (if connected) is too much.

When tuning the timing, all the maximum power configuration should be done with
any vacuum device disconnected. This should be foot on floor stuff, otherwise you
are not allowing the engine to obtain its best Volumetric Efficiency. As said before,
under "NOT Best VE conditions", the engine will take more advance. If you set the
timing under NOT Best VE conditions, say 3/4 throttle, it will be artificially advanced.
When you do put your foot right down, the timing will then be too much and the
engine will probably pink. Don't kid yourself - you have to gun it!

NB Lucas distributors for Minis usually add UP TO 14 degrees more advance with the
vacuum enabled.

As has been said before, if the distributor curve is fixed, we can only move the whole
curve backwards and forwards. So if we retard the timing by 2 degrees, say, to stop
it pinking at say, 3500, if it was OK everywhere else, it will now be minus 2 degrees
from optimum everywhere, apart from at the point where the pinking was tuned out.

Without a specially built distributor, this is a sad fact of life - a compromise...

Don't forget to seal up the hole in the manifold if the vacuum is disconnected.

Once the power side of things is settled, this is your "base" curve. There should be
no pinking anywhere... Reconnect the Vacuum and see how it goes. If you then get
pinking, you know that it is the vacuum that is the problem, not the centrifugal. If you
do get pinking with the vacuum re-connected, you have three choices:

1) Disconnect the vacuum, in which case you will lose out on cruise driveability and MPG
(The engine may feel hesitant, like it's got a too lean mixture...)
2) Find a "vacuum can" that produces less advance.
3) Retard the whole distributor, in which case you will now not be able to get maximum BHP.

Other things to note:
If you do your power setup on a cold day, the air will be more dense - more mixture will
be sucked into your engine and it will take a certain amount of advance. If you then drive
at WOT on a hotter day, the engine may pink. So either do your setup on a hot day, or
be prepared to back the timing off more if the temperature changes.

If you are running 97 octane, you could do your power timing with 90% of 97 octane,
plus 10% 95 octane. On a 5.5 gallon tank, about 2.5 litres 95, topped up to full, 97.
On a later tank, 3.4 litres 95, topped up to full, 97.

My theory here, B******* or otherwise is that the fuel will now be about 96.8 octane
during setup and when you run 97 normally you will have a small buffer against pinking.

I did exactly this on a dyno during a February and during the summer the engine was fine.

Temperature, ambient and engine makes a LOT of difference. Years ago, on another dyno:
It showed 60BHP at the wheels.
The dyno operator went for a cup of tea for 20 minutes, came back and did some miracle
"pretend" modification under the bonnet.
He then took another power run to show me the extra 10BHP that his magic fingers had produced.
This was the difference between a hot engine and a cold one...
Not to be out-done, I said, "OK, try this" (Thinks "OK, try this, smart-arse...") and I pulled the
heater control which shut off the heat going through the alloy inlet manifold.
Mr Magic Fingers dyno operator's jaw hit the floor when I pulled another 2.5BHP out of thin air...

So, basically anywhere between 60 and 72.5Bhp, dependent on temperature, or a 20% gain...

Every engine is different, and there are a multitude of factors which affect both timing and fuelling.

mk1mini wrote: Do any mk1 cars have steering locks ? mine doesn't , but i'm familiar with the risk of that.

If the key is in the middle of the dash, you're OK, but it is still a very valid warning for others...

Ian

If the op treats it like he's running it in, he'll never get anywhere near a decent set up. After all you don't put a new engine under load when your running it in and that is exactly what he needs to do.

If it's cold when it's set up, it will not be more likely to pink on a warmer day. It will in fact have a richer mixture.

To add to your three options, he could modify the dizzy. As I did to my Aldon Yellow, before going over to a megajolt.

mk1mini wrote:my last post was for smiffy i was trying to explain im going with his method but paranoid im doing damage

Everything I was explaining to you was, to help you set it on the safe side. Which was why I was explaining one step at a time

Smiffy wrote: If the op treats it like he's running it in, he'll never get anywhere near a decent set up.

Clarification: The context here was to get some colour on the plugs
BEFORE continuing with the setup process, which would then be to load
the engine up, as everyone here agrees on.

So we are agreed...

Smiffy wrote: If it's cold when it's set up, it will not be more likely to pink
on a warmer day. It will in fact have a richer mixture.

Clarification: Yes, it will have a richer mixture on a warmer day.
Therefore, it must have had a leaner mixture on a cooler day.
If the setup is done on a cooler day, this leaner mixture will require
more advance to run well and the engine will have been set for this.
Consequently, on a hotter day, the timing can become too advanced,
purely because it was setup previously for a leaner mixture.

All of my own engines have been more likely to pink during
hot conditions, either when the engine temperature is too high,
or otherwise when the ambient temperature is high.

Smiffy wrote: To add to your three options, he could modify the dizzy.
As I did to my Aldon Yellow, before going over to a megajolt.

Clarification: The OP has said that at this stage he did not want
to spend out on a "fancy" distributor. On this basis, the three
options relate to making the best out of the parts currently available.

Everyone has said all along that some kind of tailored curve from
a custom built distributor, or a programmable one is the way to go.

So we are agreed...

At the moment, the OP is going with what he has already and this will
be a compromise.

I am now going to go to my garage and graft a "Skoda Felicity" radiator
into my MiniMarcos.... I may be some time...

Ian

ianh1968 wrote:

Smiffy wrote: If the op treats it like he's running it in, he'll never get anywhere near a decent set up.

Clarification: The context here was to get some colour on the plugs
BEFORE continuing with the setup process, which would then be to load
the engine up, as everyone here agrees on.

So we are agreed...

Smiffy wrote: If it's cold when it's set up, it will not be more likely to pink
on a warmer day. It will in fact have a richer mixture.

Clarification: Yes, it will have a richer mixture on a warmer day.
Therefore, it must have had a leaner mixture on a cooler day.
If the setup is done on a cooler day, this leaner mixture will require
more advance to run well and the engine will have been set for this.
Consequently, on a hotter day, the timing can become too advanced,
purely because it was setup previously for a leaner mixture.

All of my own engines have been more likely to pink during
hot conditions, either when the engine temperature is too high,
or otherwise when the ambient temperature is high.

Smiffy wrote: To add to your three options, he could modify the dizzy.
As I did to my Aldon Yellow, before going over to a megajolt.

Clarification: The OP has said that at this stage he did not want
to spend out on a "fancy" distributor. On this basis, the three
options relate to making the best out of the parts currently available.

Everyone has said all along that some kind of tailored curve from
a custom built distributor, or a programmable one is the way to go.

So we are agreed...

At the moment, the OP is going with what he has already and this will
be a compromise.

I am now going to go to my garage and graft a "Skoda Felicity" radiator
into my MiniMarcos.... I may be some time...

Ian

He doesn't have to spend anything on a custom dizzy, it's not hard to modify the advance curve of a dizzy. He doesn't want any color on the plugs until he does the plug chop. Plugs that are colored up whilst driving around normally will only serve to confuse, if you'd have read what I said. You'd have noticed I said to change the plugs before the first run up the hill, now unless he lives at the bottom of the perfect road. He'll need to drive/find to said road, if he drives it there and it's running like a bag of nails. Surely anyone, would know not to cane the Arse of it up a steep'ish hill.

So now your changing the conditions from just having a warm ambient temperature to a overheating engine. So I guess we're not in agreement.

Smiffy,

Regarding the plugs, I made the observation that in my experience it is very
difficult to read brand new plugs and provided a suggested solution.

The OP agreed.

Quite obviously, we are both not as good at reading new plugs as you are...

I am quite happy to admit that I can't do it... What's the problem?

Smiffy wrote: If it's cold when it's set up, it will not be more likely to pink on a warmer day.
It will in fact have a richer mixture.

Smiffy wrote: So now your changing the conditions from just having a warm ambient temperature to a overheating engine.
So I guess we're not in agreement.

I stand by what I said. In my experience, my engines, if they are going to pink, they will
do this on a hot day, or if the engine is too hot. I have never had an engine run fine during
hot weather and then pink during a cold spell... It has always been the other way round.

I have not "changed any conditions" - I am simply providing background info, a reason
why I feel that this would be the case...

I provided a reasonable explanation of why I felt this would be: The mixture was set up for
a leaner running engine and the timing set to ignite this leaner mixture, leaner mixtures
needing more advance. Because of increased heat, the engine is now running richer and
does not need this much advance. Given that it was set up colder, the timing would now
be too much and in my experience this can cause an engine to pink. This is what I think...

I have not said I am right and you are wrong, which is quite clearly what you are doing
with pretty much everything I say, for reasons that I cannot understand.


The forum is a place where like-minded people can share ideas, ideas that come from
experience and a general knowledge of the subject. Everyone's experience and
knowledge will be different and this is exactly what adds a huge amount of value to a
facility like this.

Not everyone will agree with everything that is said here, and I accept this gracefully.

Best wishes to EVERYONE here...

Ian

ianh1968 wrote:Smiffy,

Regarding the plugs, I made the observation that in my experience it is very
difficult to read brand new plugs and provided a suggested solution.

The OP agreed.

Quite obviously, we are both not as good at reading new plugs as you are...

I am quite happy to admit that I can't do it... What's the problem?

Smiffy wrote: If it's cold when it's set up, it will not be more likely to pink on a warmer day.
It will in fact have a richer mixture.

Smiffy wrote: So now your changing the conditions from just having a warm ambient temperature to a overheating engine.
So I guess we're not in agreement.

I stand by what I said. In my experience, my engines, if they are going to pink, they will
do this on a hot day, or if the engine is too hot. I have never had an engine run fine during
hot weather and then pink during a cold spell... It has always been the other way round.

I'm sorry but you really don't get this do you, in warmer ambient conditions, there is LESS oxygen in the air. Which equates to a richer mixture.

ianh1968 wrote:I have not "changed any conditions" - I am simply providing background info, a reason
why I feel that this would be the case...

You added the overheating, to your reasoning, which I suppose isn't that surprising. Judging by the way you tune your motors.

ianh1968 wrote:I provided a reasonable explanation of why I felt this would be: The mixture was set up for
a leaner running engine and the timing set to ignite this leaner mixture, leaner mixtures
needing more advance. Because of increased heat, the engine is now running richer and
does not need this much advance. Given that it was set up colder, the timing would now
be too much and in my experience this can cause an engine to pink. This is what I think…

You said it would pink in warm weather, when pinkings more likely in the cold. This is the trouble with most mini forums, people feel they know what there talking about.

ianh1968 wrote:I have not said I am right and you are wrong, which is quite clearly what you are doing
with pretty much everything I say, for reasons that I cannot understand.

You started going on about the shape of the rest of the curve, part throttle, performance distributors, aldon red and yellow dizzies. Two and three Dimensional mapping, vacuum advance, too much advance, your 1380, your 1480 that you've had 276, 286 and how ever many other cams. Cooper 'S heads, Ambient temperature, charge temperature, octane ratings, need I go on.

In fact you talked about so much stuff you convinced the op you knew what you where talking about.

Now all of a sudden you can't read plugs ! Sorry to say this, but maybe you should of just kept quiet and just possibly you'd have learn't something.

ianh1968 wrote:The forum is a place where like-minded people can share ideas, ideas that come from
experience and a general knowledge of the subject. Everyone's experience and
knowledge will be different and this is exactly what adds a huge amount of value to a
facility like this.

Not everyone will agree with everything that is said here, and I accept this gracefully.

Best wishes to EVERYONE here...

Ian

Now that, I am in full agreement with