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Vegard wrote:If you're fitting A008s on 4,5" wheels you're in for a surprise. It's shit. (As you've got no arches)

rubbish, ive driven thousands of miles in minis with a008's on 4.5" wheels.

the roads must be better over here verg

Running A008s on my 4.5 Reverse S and also on my 1275GT Rostyles - no probs here either!

Let the games begin!

Pulled off the inner over sils. Not much underneath. Good news is that out sills and door frame are solid on passenger side and only the front 12" of the drivers outer sill needs repair. Got it all cut out today. Tomorrow I will repair lower edge of bulkhead and wheel wheels and weld in new floors. Hopefully I will have the floor all done tommorow. You know those ads that say 95% rust free. This is what it means. "New floors and sills required".

Making good progress. Bottom edge of wheel well repaired. Lower edge of bulkhead repaired. Passenger side inner sill replaced. Just got to get the floor pan in and it's onto the drivers side.

Coming along nicely Dan.
The worst part of any resto work is unpicking previous repairs which if done badly, always hide something nasty and is nearly always rotten.
Keep up the good work.

New passenger floor in place.

Out in the wind and rain today bur got the body off the subframe. Good news is that the n/s bulkhead crossmember is solid. Score. Next up, o/s inner sill and floor pan and bulkhead repair.

Made good progress today. It is amazing what you can get through an MOT with a little filler and hammerite. Drivers side floor pan and inner sill in before lunch. Quick burger van burger and tea and back to work. Got the bulkhead welded up with a new end to the cross member.

Fair play, you're a brave man taking on that crossmember repair. Judging by what remained of the original it was in desperate need of repair though. Keep us posted with the progress.

outside welding when its wet - theres nothing worse than a bin liner taped round the welder and a slight earth leakage giving you a tingle!!!!!

It was in desperate need of repair. I also had a crack forming through my rust floor starting at the subframe bolt!! The welding is almost all done now. I just have to do the inner wing outer sills then paint. I will be glad when its finished. I kept having to put the welder in the car and run in the house when it rained. Still had to use the rubber gloves by the end of the day mind you.

Getting there. Bulkhead done. Put engine back in last night. Still have to take the drivers side wing off to repair the scuttle end and replace the inner wing. I need the car back for a while hence why I'm putting it back together before doing the inner wing. It will have to wait a couple of weeks. I also started repairing and wrapping the wiring loom. Hook up the electrics should be fun. The engine got a little love too before putting it back in. New water pump, a few gaskets and a lick of paint. I installed my new intake manifold and a crackle black rocker cover. Nice.

Coming along nicely Dan. Great work.

Yes, not quite sure how to patch that up yet because it runs right through a crease. Going to have to find a donor tunnel to cut the patch from I think. Cheers.

Finally got my Britax labels on my harness. Doesn't look to bad. Aaron, yours are in the post. I used a little iron on adhesive underneath with a tea towel in-between to protect the label from the iron. Then I stitched the corners to stop them peeling up.

Get everything hooked back up in the engine bay. Just need to wire it up and hope it runs.

Great work Daniel, makes me want to crack on with my project!

Ok, a few problems today.

1. drivers side hydrolastic line has split. I'd like to try the nylon lines. I hope you can run the nylon lines without moving the subframe? I suppose just little bit wouldn't hurt.

2. tried turning the engine over but no spark from the coil. getting 12v in but nothing out. I'm using a distributor with electronic points. Not sure where to go with that other than try another coil.

3. brake master cylinder doesn't pump any fluid. Tried the method of holding the finger over the hole to prime it but nothing. no pressure. It's not leaking anywhere either.

Any ideas on the above? Cheers,

Check out this thread re the brake bleeding problem.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2844

Is the distributor one of the later ones with the block connector on the side or have you got one of those Magnetronic type points which does away with the standard points and condensor.?
Have you changed the coil for a new one and it's a ballast resistor type which runs at 9 volts.?

Hello,

The dizzy is an aftermarket type with a magnetic points thing inside. The coil is whatever came with car and should probably be replaced anyway. As far as I know there is no ballast resistor. I did an ohms test on it and it read 7.5 between + and - and 45000 between LT and HT. I tested my mates mk1 mini coil also and he got the same figures only his works. Didn't get a chance to swap them over today.

The master cylinder has me stumped though. It worked fine when it came off 2 months ago. Its been dry stored. Checked the clevis pin and its all hooked up. Cheers,