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Brake servos I can also live without.

I am going to fit air con to my next car if I can find something compact enough. Brocade , sliding windows and a heater that doesn't seem to know the difference between hot and cold makes for a very sweaty trip to Beaulieu lol

indigo wrote: ↑Mon Mar 03, 2025 6:45 am Radiator shroud - the one on the inner wing.
Did they re-introduce this on the later Rover Mini's with Air Con - not a piece of metal but a foam insert of some sort?
Maybe the aircon should never have been fitted?

Head restraints so big that you can't tilt the seats forward enough to get in the back unless you want to wreck the headlining. Made a practical four seater a useless two seater.

I'm not a big fan of the roll pin arrangement on the rod change gear selector coupler. Much bad language when lying on your back trying to get that bugger out sometimes . Doesn't feel right having to subject the pinnion to so much brute force.

Has any one ever used one of these?
https://www.minispares.com/msg13-quick- ... r-coupling

I’ve fitted one of those couplings, for the same reason as you stated, seems brutal on the selector shaft when tapping the pin into place. Seems to be working fine at the moment, no more play than the roll pin, positive gear selection. But just to be on the safe side I put some lock wire on the open side of the clips so they can’t come out until I want them out.

Can agree re the Roll Pins ..another case of unrequired slack in the system .. I also worry that a Roll Pin could come partial out when on the road .. hence why i pass a "Lock Wire" through & around my rod change Roll Pins as a just in case
not seen that MS replacement ..seems to be a good idea.?

Exminiman wrote: ↑Sun Mar 02, 2025 4:10 pm Those pins that secure the master cylinders to the pedals…..that you have to put in while being upside down on your head….

And I'm beat to the punch.
At 6'1" tall... that was no fun task.

A thought on the peskie pins in the master cylinder. fitting anyway. put the pin in a lathe and drill a 1.5mm hole through the centre tricky through the split pin hole! now thread string or strimmer cord through with a knot on one end. So now at least you have a help in guiding the pin in! Putting the split pin in ah ....

agricola wrote: ↑Tue Mar 04, 2025 10:14 pm A thought on the peskie pins in the master cylinder. fitting anyway. put the pin in a lathe and drill a 1.5mm hole through the centre tricky through the split pin hole! now thread string or strimmer cord through with a knot on one end. So now at least you have a help in guiding the pin in! Putting the split pin in ah ....

Neat idea! You will still need to get your paws up there though.

My solution is a piece of 1.2mm panel steel 25mm x 250mm with two vertical 25mm deep slots cut in one end 8mm apart, bend the centre tang created by the slots slightly which allows the head of a clevis pin to slot in giving and nice long tool which doesn't require dexterous pinkie action close to pedal gubbins. I also use R clips which I fit with long snout nose pliers.

Makes the job a doddle......other than trying to remove over length, heavily folded splint pins fitted by prior mechanics. The worst I've had was where some twit fitted a bolt and nylon nut. Much swearing getting that out.

I bought one of those clevis pin tools with the piece of spring steel that holds the pin in the fork. It is pretty good. I also bought one to hold engine mount bolts, but discovered that the tools were more or less interchangeable anyway.

Tim

By-pass Hose.

Tim wrote: ↑Wed Mar 05, 2025 4:50 am I bought one of those clevis pin tools with the piece of spring steel that holds the pin in the fork. It is pretty good. I also bought one to hold engine mount bolts, but discovered that the tools were more or less interchangeable anyway.

Tim

Master Cylinder Pin Tool (Catmint)
"A handy little tool for removing and replacing the master cylinder clevis pin. Sloped leading edge helps the tool to get behind the pin head for removal and the spring top stops it from falling into the bulkhead and holds it in place for replacement. Unfortunately it doesn’t help with the cotter pin and having to crawl upside down in the car, that is still a pain of a job."
https://shop.catmint.biz/product/master ... l-cat2017/

"R" Clips they are used in the various aspects within the Crane Industry to secure structural Pins that need to be removed & refitted often on a regular basis.
"R" Clips all good 99% of the time in my many experiences with Crane incidents & the consequences.
For this reasoning i do not use R Clips in my Brake & Clutch Clevis Pins .. mush better to fight the good fight & fit the standard Split Pins

If you do replace the pedal split pins with an R clip, do make sure it is a suitable size R clip as there have been cases of an R clip becoming dislodged in use, if they are too long they can pop out which is obviously not good on the brake pedal....

I believe Australian Minis used R clips during factory production but the correct size and type (approx 20mm long overall max) is essential for safety.

Somerfords 3/16" R Clip - suits pedal clevis pin, etc:-
https://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/r-clip- ... s-pins-etc

Well not an O.E. part but..........
The person that invented nudge bars should have been taken round the back of building and beaten with a big stick
I never even liked them back in the day.

Windscreen rubbers not sure why they could never made a rubber where you just string the rubber in like most cars of the time
Might have been something to do with more rigid rubber was required for bodyflex

I've used R clips in the clutch and brake m/cylinder to pedal joint without any problem since envelopes had sticky flaps without a problem. But have taken the above on board and ordered the shorter versions now. Next weeks job. Thanks for the reminder Martin. Better safe than sorry

A pin holding tool, R clips and decent pair of long-nosed pliers. It's still a cow of a job, but it all helps.

Its worse in a Moke, there's no door to open, so you have to do some kind of upside-down contortion in the footwell and its all hard surfaces and sharp angles.

Tim

Sunroof

hi mokes have a sun roof already
cheers roger