Paint vs Underseal

[abs]

I`m with Peter as I have yet to see rot on anything that has been soaked in waste oil, it gets everywhere and stays there in it`s fluid form.
I`ve pulled a bumper from a mid 90`s Rovers and the body behind never even got painted but there was only a slight film of rust that could be removed with 400 grit paper and I bet it would have been rotten if it had be coated.
A oily rag is all it got before the bumper went back on.

[richardACS]

I`m with Peter as I have yet to see rot on anything that has been soaked in waste oil, it gets everywhere and stays there in it`s fluid form.
I`ve pulled a bumper from a mid 90`s Rovers and the body behind never even got painted but there was only a slight film of rust that could be removed with 400 grit paper and I bet it would have been rotten if it had be coated.
A oily rag is all it got before the bumper went back on.

I agree and a good call with old engine oil, my Uncle used to save his old oil and of course back in the 60's a Mk 2 jag had an oil change in around 2,500 miles so plenty of gallons would be accumulated. His trick was to mix it with creosote (the proper stuff back then) and apply it to his timber clad garages. That's 60 years ago now and they are still in perfect condition!

Somewhere in this thread it was mentioned that Lanoguard was likely a watered down Waxoil.. I don't believe so, Lanoguard is a by product of sheep's wool, wax oil is a petrochemical product - which is also an amazing product....

[mk1]

If I had that car to do, Id do all the visible bits in Raptor or something similar, then give all the hard to reach cavities & corners a good going over with something like Dynax.

[Allen Brzeczek]

Back in the late 70's / early 80's I did some extensive restoration/preservation on my "S" and faced with pretty much bare metal throughout I opted to use a couple of thick coats of black Hammerite.

During the Winter months I clean down inside the wheel arches, floors, and sub frames etc and find there is little or no significant damage since application. To finish I spray with WD40 which I consider probably heals/seals and protects the pin holes/small chips caused by stone damage.

[Old English White]

then give all the hard to reach cavities & corners a good going over with something like Dynax.

I bought a spray can of that a few months ago to carry out a smallish job on a car. Well impressed with it. Just bought a few more cans to do another car. Always used to use Supertrol (which was excellent) but cannot seem to get it now

I have also used quite a bit of old engine oil for wooden sheds and fences over the years I'm sure we're not supposed to but I find it very effective when mixed with other materials. You should never be tempted to spray the stuff though

[trevorhp]

Bit late to the party however.....
Hydrate 80 then Raptor then Dynax .
Built Hammer could not be more helpful and often have discount promotions under Opie oils banner.
Mark is not wrong
T

[111Robin]

then give all the hard to reach cavities & corners a good going over with something like Dynax.

I bought a spray can of that a few months ago to carry out a smallish job on a car. Well impressed with it. Just bought a few more cans to do another car. Always used to use Supertrol (which was excellent) but cannot seem to get it now

I have also used quite a bit of old engine oil for wooden sheds and fences over the years I'm sure we're not supposed to but I find it very effective when mixed with other materials. You should never be tempted to spray the stuff though

Supertrol is available but I wouldn't use it any more since they changed the formula. It dries immediately on contact into a hard crusty mess, doesn't flow or creep at all. I switched to Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 and have been very impressed with it. It has just the right consistency to flow into crevices etc. and definitely prevents water from settling on surfaces. I even use it on my daily driver when servicing brakes etc., particularly on the brake hose ferrules that used to corrode rapidly even with a slap of grease on them. As a bonus, I also like the smell

[Oneball]

I’m not sure about Hydrate 80. I’ve tried them before and didn’t like the latex/polymer layer they leave behind.

I’m still cleaning though.

[trevorhp]

I’m not sure about Hydrate 80. I’ve tried them before and didn’t like the latex/polymer layer they leave behind.

I’m still cleaning though.

I leave it a good while before painting and it appears to harden and is very difficult to remove.
I've left Hydrate 80 treated items for more than 12 months, indoors, without any apparent deterioration of the coating and certainly no rust re-appearing.
T