mk1-forum.net

So far, all looks OK to me, for a mini.
What are you expecting ?

Before you go for a full rebuild it would be worth getting the bores measured accurately & if they are not too far out of spec, a glaze bust & set of rings (if you can get them) may be the best bet. Worth checking the guides for wear while you are at it.

That REALLY doesn't look too bad to me.

M

More words from the wise old heads of Mark and exminiman above...........

Less of the Old!

Oh, and the wise, too I suppose

Suggestion .. take the Engine in bits into FJ Payne at Eynsham & get Roger to have a look he will advise his best solution.. then continue up to SMMC at Southam and ask Rod for his advice .. both of those Blokes will give you genuine advice to the solution

My experience is a 998 will cost about the same as a 1275 to rework.

Another GREAT suggestion. Paynes engineering. Tim Payne is a friend of mine too...... We're spoiled for choice around here

Peter Laidler wrote: ↑Thu Oct 20, 2022 12:33 pm Another GREAT suggestion. Paynes engineering. Tim Payne is a friend of mine too...... We're spoiled for choice around here

Interesting, Paynes are a new one to me http://www.fjpayne.com/ - recommended Peter ?

Lets put it this way FJ Payne were in Oxford proper old style machine engineering company .. i would have used them in the very early 70,s to plane cylinder heads & crank grinds etc.
This year i had a Head done ..Planned + the Valves & Seats etc was about £400 with the vat .. needed a quick turnaround which is why that head went to Eynsham.

On the Counter Top at that time was a Austin 7 Crank & Subaru Crank and a Bloody Great Big Crank sitting on the Floor that only God knows what it comes from

Recommended, YES. Father and son were always very meticulous. Tim taught me the basics of CNC

mk1 wrote: ↑Thu Oct 20, 2022 9:52 am Before you go for a full rebuild it would be worth getting the bores measured accurately & if they are not too far out of spec, a glaze bust & set of rings (if you can get them) may be the best bet. Worth checking the guides for wear while you are at it.

That REALLY doesn't look too bad to me.

M

so far, head needs converting, bores look good, big ends good, pistons good, cam has a couple of flats on one lobe, lower mains at the heavy end down to copper but journals ok.... as you say getting rings will be tricky...

[quote="251 ENG" post_id=311210 time=1666201886 user_id=

Biggest problem with 998 cooper is D top piston availability, new oversize ones are incredibly rare .

You can use flat top pistons but that means you have to take a big chunk off head .

You can also modify flat top pistons to D tops but then you have to take a chunk off block
[/quote]


No easy option then

Pardon my ignorance, but wouldn’t 998 d top rings be the same as standard 998 rings? Aren’t those readily available?

The rings might be easier to find, but if you’ve only got standard size pistons and the cylinders need a rebore then new rings won’t help

998 cooper ring std size from 1970 workshop manual

So, I thought I read you can’t fit a vernier duplex timing set to a pre A plus 998, but I’m sure it’s been done…any experience?

Also, can you/ should you re finish the pads on pressed rocker arms?

I put a duplex set on my pre A+ 1098 which is essentially the same as a 998. I didn’t use the adjustable gears as I didn’t want an extra place for something to go wrong so I used an offset woodruff key

I also had the pads on the rockers refinished and after a couple of years and maybe 10,000km there’s now some visible witness marks but no wear on the pads.

Hi, thanks for the info, especially ref the rocker pads..

snoopy64 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 25, 2022 7:32 pm So, I thought I read you can’t fit a vernier duplex timing set to a pre A plus 998, but I’m sure it’s been done…any experience?

you just need to countersink the 2 screws under the cam pulley

Thanks for confirming…

Just looking now to salvage the pressed rockers, if the pads will dress up it’ll be a bonus..