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And another for Blaze here, with navy seats and carpets on the inside, and navy stripes on the outside. Those '70s shades are so much better than those drab old '60s shades.

Is this what is termed “peer pressure”? One thing is for sure Nappy Gold is going. A standard looking Blaze car with an Arden head. What else do you kerls want me to do?

D

Blaze is a great colour but so is Bronze Yellow or Glacier White on an early GT!

Dearg1275 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 29, 2021 7:10 pm Is this what is termed “peer pressure”? One thing is for sure Nappy Gold is going. A standard looking Blaze car with an Arden head. What else do you kerls want me to do?

D

Our GT had Cosmic alloys - I don't know if there are standard and S offsets though. Dunlops look good as well.

66Traveller wrote: ↑Mon Nov 29, 2021 9:25 pm Blaze is a great colour but so is Bronze Yellow or Glacier White on an early GT!

What Glacier White like this?
I don’t get to use an Arden head with that one. Twin HS6s and a five port.

D

This is the sum total of salvageable bits from a front hub assembly.
The hub had been attacked with a punch and hammer to hold the outer bearing tight. You could feel a lip in the bore where the bearing had spun. The Timken bearing set are good as new, so I don’t think there have been many miles since this bodged repair. It worth giving them a chance anyway..

I just hope things get better from here on in.

D

hi d
what a manky front hub assembly what size is it i got 8.4 discs for my clubman with hardened drive flanges they bolt to the hub
surely loctite bearing lock would be a better bodge than centre punching the hub but the latter is cheap even the dust shield is shot i have not used them on my mini
but the car looks in good shape or is that an illusion has not stopped raining here for weeks but my shed is dry even if it is over full it needs tidying up but where does one put it all
well cheers roger

Another vote for Blaze,a friend of Mini has an early GT in Blaze with blue stripes and it looks the business.The early Clubmans look great in lairy BL colours in my opinion.

OK,OK,OK. Blaze it is, unless I build a ST NZ replica. Let me get the wheels on first!

D

My new GT set off as a bit of a NZ GT replica, but only really had the stripes (which have now disappeared )

I'm gonna stick with white of some sort, as a comp car it dont really matter on the "shade"

Love Blaze for a road car, but I know you like to do a comp car

our paths cross again !!

The front panel and wings have been replaced at some point but luckily whoever did that had the wit to hang on to the body number. This I received together with the V5.
The down side was that it had been chiselled off and the spot welds were just torn out. A fix was required.

Copper sheet as a heat sink contained the weld to just the damaged area and also gave a flat face to weld against.

The area round the “D” I was nervous about but welding from the rear got a result that will hopefully work if I spot weld in the same place again.
Not perfect but I didn’t fancy chancing things further.

D

I've never noticed those raised dots between the D and 20 and D before. Is that the same on round nose body numbers and could it be a way of telling a genuine from a fake?

I was thinking exactly the same!

surfblue63 wrote: ↑Thu Dec 02, 2021 2:51 pm I've never noticed those raised dots between the D and 20 and D before. Is that the same on round nose body numbers and could it be a way of telling a genuine from a fake?

You do realise that now you have shared that thought your proposition fails!

D

A nicer box of goodies than I started with.
With some plating and painting to come it feels like progress.

D

When I had the tin of paint open I noticed this marking on the tie rod. It was there on both. I’ve never noticed this on any other tie rods I’ve cleaned up over the years and wonder if I have just been unobservant or it signifies something out of the ordinary.
Three degree castor?

D

Never seen that before either!

It reads 3 degrees centigrade to me...... of no significance at all to the tie rod temp or angular configuration

Perhaps an additional 3 degrees of castor?

I have had a suggestion that this stamping is not factory. Three degrees is the standard caster angle and the thought is that it is there to distinguish it from another set of rod with a different angle. i.e. A set of different rods with different angles for race purposes. 2,3,4 you get the idea.

At least that makes some sense.

D