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some more.

The heritage seam mouldings seem to follow the curve well if placed on the scuttle side... (maybe the minispares ones are a better shape?)

To my eye (and it difficult with just photos) the bottom of the A pillar seems to step in and not follow the line of the upper part of the pillar. If you have replaced the scuttle this could be the issue. What is the history of the car? has it had a shunt? If so, it's possible the A pillar has been pushed outwards slightly. I had this once and it was a devil to work out what was going on.

D

Dearg1275 wrote: ↑Sun Nov 08, 2020 6:11 am To my eye (and it difficult with just photos) the bottom of the A pillar seems to step in and not follow the line of the upper part of the pillar. If you have replaced the scuttle this could be the issue. What is the history of the car? has it had a shunt? If so, it's possible the A pillar has been pushed outwards slightly. I had this once and it was a devil to work out what was going on.

D

It has had a complete Scuttle, however this went in fairly well also, unless the original was out of measurement too?

Yeah that van has definitely had a shunt at some point in rear. It had a replacement front end at some point in its life so unless more damage was done up front.

The only obvious creasing etc was in the rear floor and c pillar.

From what I see its the position of the inner A panel that's wrong. It too far out from the inner wing.

The gap at the top between the inner A panel and the scuttle closing panel is too large, so that means if the inner A panel is sitting out, the seam will never fit in line to the new scuttle panel.
You have made even more work for your self cutting down the edge of the scuttle

The pressing of the o/s inner wing which has the positioning pressing marks for the inner A panel are all wrong. I found this to my cost and I went with the pressings to tack the inner A panel on only to find the A panel was miles out.

You will have one all might job undoing it to correct it now

The seams of all three panels A panel , inner A panel and door aperture should be flush with each other at the panel edges. ( in the ideal world )

Thanks for your thoughts Iain!

The cars got the original inner wing on this side, so would’ve thought the pressings were about right? I agree about the gap at the end of the Scuttle to the inner a panel though.

If I removed the inner A panel though, then surely the outer one Would still go in the same place though due to having to line up with the a post, door step, inner post etc?

As that’s how I lined the door up, using the m machine complete a panel first. Then putting the inner a panel after.

It is certainly a job undoing it all and double the cost on everything... but hey ho, can’t be left like it

The bottom of the A panel could well be correct. And the top at the door might be ok. The problem I think I see is shown in the pictures above. The second one from the top. It shows a gap between the inner A panel and the scuttle closing panel. The curved part of the inner should be touching or very close to the scuttle closing panels edge.

If this was moved over to close the gap it would give you about another 5mm to bring the A panel in at the seam join. It wouldn't necessarily move much at the door gap.

I think the best bet now will be to cut it all out and start again on this corner... and just keep an eye on the bits mentioned and see where we end up.

Door to A panel looks ok doesn't it, seems odd that it's so far out to the wing.
Could another cut be made down the side of the re-enforcement panel and then the offending bit be pushed in?
I suppose the best thing would be to start again....but it wouldn't hurt to have one last go at it.

Nick W wrote: ↑Mon Nov 09, 2020 10:52 am Door to A panel looks ok doesn't it, seems odd that it's so far out to the wing.
Could another cut be made down the side of the re-enforcement panel and then the offending bit be pushed in?
I suppose the best thing would be to start again....but it wouldn't hurt to have one last go at it.

Sorry Nick, where do you mean exactly? behind where hinge strengtheners are? And then try and push it over?

Or have I miss interpreted?

Yes the panel with the hinge strengtheners on, maybe cut down the inside of it, basically cuting a slice say 18" then try and pull it in and tack weld it, and see if it has the desired effect.

Out of interest if you fitted the door rubber and shut the door is the door tight up to the rubber at the top hinge area or is there a gap. This might tell you if the door is sitting in or out more than normal.

If you cut the inner panel be careful not to cut the door post support up the inside of the inner wing.

If you can get a hold of a laser measure you could make a up a small simple jig that bolts to the door striker holes measure the drivers side A panel
then make a comparison to the passenger side

This is how it would work, this is a dedicated laser for bodywork but you could do something similar with a Dewalt laser line


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Nick W wrote: ↑Mon Nov 09, 2020 6:18 pm Yes the panel with the hinge strengtheners on, maybe cut down the inside of it, basically cuting a slice say 18" then try and pull it in and tack weld it, and see if it has the desired effect.

Nick W, if I there, will the outer a panel not stay put because of how its one piece with the door step?

IAIN wrote: ↑Mon Nov 09, 2020 8:04 pm Out of interest if you fitted the door rubber and shut the door is the door tight up to the rubber at the top hinge area or is there a gap. This might tell you if the door is sitting in or out more than normal.

If you cut the inner panel be careful not to cut the door post support up the inside of the inner wing.

Iain, good thought, late entry into the garage last night to check. I am left with a gap level with the window... where the problem area is.

Nick D, good thought, will have to see if I can get hold of a laser level to check. I took a crude measurement yesterday with a Vernier and the offending a panel is 3mm wider at the top of the door hinge than there otherside... enough to cause an issue maybe? but not to solve a 10mm gap...

Thanks again for all your replies gents, it is greatly appreciated!

door gap on the deal

Well my thought were It would pull the hole lot in to place. But you may need something like this to pull it in

I am back on it, now more panels have arrived....

I have ended up removing the wing, inner/ outer (in small stages).

So back at square one. I just cannot get that outer a panel to sit in any other than position than the one i removed. So the seam strip still wont fit.... starting to the think the car maybe bent.

Any way i can check this area without a jig etc?

We use one of these for quick checks , for example you can find the centre of the car on the seat cross member and measure to the LH edge of the A panel, then swing it across to compare to the RH side. it has a magnetic base to hold it firm.
But you can do as much with a piece of good string and a self tapper to hold it,
It's just a case of finding centre's and measuring side to side. Find the centre of the bulk head and try from there maybe.

Nick

Thanks everyone for their replies!

Issue now sorted, it has had a new inner a panel, outer a panel, wing, and scuttle end. Most annoyed about the scuttle end, but hey ho.

The m machine out a panel replacement had a much sharper curve in it, allowing the seam strip to go on further, and also the new scuttle end was a better shape, meaning the wing could sit up, and it didn’t pinch in.

Just a shame to have to cut a shut a heritage scuttle.

Very close to paint now... just door and bonnet gaps to adjust. And the roof rust to sort!

Well done



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Nightmare is over!!